Žilavka: treasure from Herzegovina

Photo: vineyards near Trebinje.

Who crosses the high mountain range of Dalmatia, enters almost directly in another world: Herzegovina, one of Europe´s most beautiful regions because of its wonderful countryside and nature. Suddenly there is no stress of overtourism, no aggressive billboards, no B&Bs shouting at you at every corner: this is a relaxed country with space for everybody where thing are going slow and quiet in the most positive sense. It is huge. It is a mass of mountains, forests and stones, witness of centuries of abandon, of Ottomans and many other foreign powers passing, but it is gorgeous. And warm, even hot. Herzegovina has something that will affect every visitor. It has deep and long valleys, breathtaking landscapes, wild, pastoral lands, beautiful small towns and a tiny piece of coastline. There is no clear definition of its borders: the northwestern part of Herzegovina is part of the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and south of Stolac starts the Republika Srpska. The region knows old wine traditions and produces several unique and interesting wines. As it is more close to the coast, the lower areas have a Mediterranean climate, suited for wine production, Bosnia is the interior part of the country, is much bigger in size, and has a more continental climate. Therefore most of the vineyards are situated in Herzegovina, around 3.500 hectares (Bosnia has less than 500). During Yugoslavia, Herzegovina counted more than 6.000 hectares.
Whatever the political situation, everywhere people are starting their business, although many young people have left the country. The war is more than a generation ago and people are looking forward to create a better future and wine can play a part in this. Herzegovina is a country with big distances but generally the roads are good. As the wine region is situated mainly in the coastal parts, the wineries and vineyards can easily be combined with a visit of Dalmatia. The drive from Dubrovnik to Trebinje is about 30 minutes and from the coast to Ljubuški or Čitluk is not far too. But inside Herzegovina the distances are big: from Ljubuški to Trebinje is more than 2,5 hour drive. The vineyards start north of Ljubuški near Grude, and from there continue to Čitluk and Čapljina, and also higher up the hill to Domanovići. After Čapljina there are vineyards again and from there one needs to follow a mountainous drive to reach Trebinje that is also a wine center. The drive Ljubuški-Trebinje is long but rewarding: Herzegovina has stunning landscapes and a beautiful nature.

Map of Bosnia-Herzegovina: the colored part is Herzegovina and in green is indicated the vineyard area

History
Some parts of the history of Herzegovina are still a mystery. For example the big structure of megalithic rocks near Stolac: it seems to be older than the Illyrian period. It reminds of older civilizations like Mycenae or Tyrus or old towns in Latin America, like Sacsayhuaman or Ollantaytambo. A similar mystery is the finding of the helmet pierced by a spear of Illyrian hero Daorson, found near Stolac. It seems probable that there were ancient civilizations in this part of Bosnia-Herzegovina long before history started to be documented. The country was invaded by Slavic populations in the 7^th century and the Serbo-Kroat language is still in use. The Ottomans took over in the 15^th century and they were the first to use the name Herzegovina, as part of the country Bosnia-Herzegovina. The word Herzeg origins from the German word ´Herzog´ (duke) due to a former ruler who gave his name to the territory. Since 1878 Bosnia-Herzegovina was occupied by the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. Bosnia-Herzegovina became part of Yugoslavia and it is emblematic to hear the older inhabitants of Ljubuški or Trebinje tell about the period when there was no border between them and Dalmatia: some of them even went to school in Dalmatia and returned home on the same day. This changed with the borders. There are still many people near Vrgorac and Prolog who own terrains both in Croatia and in Bosnia and they need their passport when they go to work in their vineyard in the other country. As a result of the war of the 1990-ies, large parts of western and central Herzegovina came under control of the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, while the southeastern part became the Republika Srpska.

Photo: Salon Žilavka in Galerija Vukoje in Trebinje

The wine
It was a fantastic experience to visit the Salon Žilavka in Trebinje: this was the moment when I started to understand the wines from Herzegovina. Wineries from the Kroatian and Serbian part were presenting their wines together in the refined ambience of Galerija Vukoje. It was great to see how Kroatians and Serbians were partying together in such a friendly ambience. Wine makes friends and it was shown here! There were many interesting wines to taste and to make it even more special, one of the best chefs from Sarajevo had come to create his wonderful dishes to pair with the wines. Some cheese producers from Bosnia-Herzegovina proudly offered some of their very tasty cheeses. It was a great introduction into the wines of Herzegovina.
Wine was always there in Herzegovina but in wine terms it is a young country: only in 1994 the government allowed private cellars to produce wines under their own label. Until then the cellars could only produce bulk wine.
Even during the Ottoman period local people continued their wine production and during Yugoslavia the grapes were brought to large cooperatives. Recently the wine production is making pace, everywhere the wineries have developed their cellars and are waiting to have you taste their wines. They have understood the importance of their local grape varieties and the quality of the wines is increasing. Most wineries are small and managed by local families. There is a lot of creative energy and many new investments are taking place, some of them are quite impressive. Modern winemaking equipments are introduced in the cellars and as a result the white wines are fresher and more competitive. There are wonderful and very interesting wines to find and it makes Herzegovina really a hotspot for people who are looking for something new. On the other hand, some wineries still harvest quite early and don’t wait until the full phenolic ripeness in order to produce easy, fresh wines. The summer of 2024 was extremely hot and maybe due to this climate everybody was forced to harvest earlier. During my visit on 20 August several wineries had already started! In my view an early harvest is never a good sign because the grapes can never have reached their full potential in such a short hanging time. It is the big advantage of Žilavka that it can be harvested later and then gives wonderful, elegant wines. The grapes need a longer time on the plant to give an exciting wine. The trends do not stop here, as there are also orange wines, some of them fermented in amphoras.

Photo: vineyards near Ljubuski with the mountains of Dalmatia in the distance: the Mediterranean is not far.

Although many restaurants are of the typical Balkan style, new, more modern restaurants are created too which is important because the wines need the perfect food to be paired with. Tourism is growing and more demand is expected.
The wine region is mostly situated south and southwest of Mostar and around Trebinje. The wine production is focussed on the local grape varieties Žilavka, Blatina, Trnjak and Vranac, although Chardonnay, Cabernet and Merlot are there too. But, as Radovan Vukoje says: ‘Žilavka is the true panache of Herzegovina’s wines’. The region has a very warm climate with summer temperatures up to 35-40 degrees, but especially the vineyards near the coast and the high mountains can have cooler nights which creates the best conditions for winemaking.
Logically, there is not much specific knowledge (yet) about soils and special microclimates as in other more mature wine regions. But one can say that there are generally two soil types: alluvional soils in the big valleys and limestone soils in the hills and mountains that are drier and stony. The dominant limestone allows for excellent drainage and deep roots, resulting in healthier and more complex grapes. The positions on these stony soils in the hills can provide an excellent position for making quality wine. It also provides a distinctive minerality and refreshing acidity to the wines, the latter a key for balance and aging potential. The vineyards in the valleys are a bit more humid, but grape varieties like Krkošija can thrive there. And, besides, the climate of Herzegovina is so dry that there are not really problems with humidity: in fact there are also quite good wines produced in the flat valleys.

Photo: Trebinje, a beautiful town in the far south of Herzegovina. It boasts a lot of Mediterranean architecture, white stone houses and beautiful avenues where in the holiday period many young people from abroad walk around. The old town is worth visiting with the Arslanagić Bridge, Anđelka’s Gate, several Churches and a wide choices of restaurants and bars.

Nature
There is more: Herzegovina is large, there are big distances and there are not much inhabitants. And, as one of the winemakers said: at some places there is no factory around for at least 100 kilometers. This is a rare but very valid factor for the viticulture in Herzegovina: there is not much pollution, only from the passing cars – but also those are not a big number. It means that working close to nature and working organically or with biodynamics is a rather easy option, although not all wineries seem to have realized this. Herzegovina has the potential to become one of the hotspots for natural wines in the future.

Photo: the valley on the road to Trebinje.

White grape varieties
Žilavka is the first wine that you will encounter, it can be a lovely white wine, with special aromas and some fine minerality. It is well adapted to the warm climate and manages to offer elegant wines with personality and refinement. Genetically it is related to Furmint. The harvest date is rather late, a month later than Chardonnay, but still the acidity is good. It can offer perfumes like aniseed, sage, gingember, almond and tropical fruit. Sometimes other grapes are added up to 15% (mostly Bena or Krkošija, or sometimes Chardonnay). Probably the soil conditions are also responsible for the difference in character of the wines. Some vineyards are at 450 meters above sea level and have lower alcohol and more freshness, others can be stronger and more full-bodied. It is very suited for accompanying food, but can also be a nice aperitif in the summer.
Bena is a rare variety, it ripens in the first half of September. It grows in warmer areas and is resistant to diseases like downy mildew and fungal spores. With regular narrow pruning it gives good yields. It can grow on weak soil and hardly accessible terrain due to its resistance. It is normally less alcoholic than Žilavka but has more acidity which is the reason why producers are happy to blend it with Žilavka. I did not find a separate wine from it.
Krkošija ripens in the same period as Žilavka. It is an all-female grape variety, therefore it is dependent on cross-pollination by other vines. It grows well on soils with more humidity, like the valley vineyards around Brotnjo, Dubrava and Ljubuški. It does not like dry and infertile soil. It produces wines with a somewhat neutral aroma, a high level of sugar and acidity, just like Žilavka but the acidity level is a bit higher. That is the reason why it can be blended with other wines. There are no separate wines made of it.
Red grape varieties
Vranac. An important red grape variety, also found in Montenegro, Dalmatia, Macedonia and elsewhere. It is related to Plavac Mali and other local grape varieties. It produces wines with generally a somewhat higher level of alcohol and good acidity. A young Vranac can sometimes be a bit aggressive and wild, but there are very good versions, also in Herzegovina. Barrel aging suites the wine well and can provide a wonderful strong, full-bodied wine, but also with elegance and refined fruit. These wines can be really wonderful and can age well.
Blatina is an indigenous variety from Herzegovina, only found in the area of Mostar. It is autosterile and therefore needs to be planted near other varieties like Alicante bouschet (Kambuša), Merlot, or Trnjak, which will help to pollinate it. When there is too much rain in spring it is possible that it will give no fruit. It is considered a quality wine and very often up to 15% of other varieties will be added. It offers a strong red wine, fresh, with medium to high alcohol levels and a good extract. It has a dark ruby red color, particular and characteristic aroma, as well as a full and harmonious taste, especially when aged in oak barrels. It is very particular that this grape can contain such acidity even when produced in such warm climate like Herzegovina. Barrel aging works well and all important versions that I tasted of it were barrel-aged.
Trnjak. Another indigenous variety, it is very different: it makes me think of Barbera from Piemonte. It has a thinner skin, not much tannins but much color and fruit and can give wines that are full-bodied and elegant. Several wineries produce a 100% Trnjak and these can be very interesting wines. The fine and elegant fruit, the freshness and good acidity are hallmarks.
Plavac Mali is also grown in Herzegovina but in small amounts. The berries are thick-skinned, firm and full of sugar and it ripens late. It can give wines with high alcohol, some bitter tannines, that will only develop with aging and medium acidity.
Other grape varieties: as everywhere, also in Herzegovina there is Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot, but I presume that the wines of the local varieties are the most interesting.

The people
I am impressed by the people from Herzegovina. They have so much energy! They had a hard time before, during and after the war. Many escaped, some stayed, and so many people returned to their homes to see that they were destroyed and they had to rebuild everything. But they did and now there is a strong spirit of entrepreneurs in Herzegovina, like in Bosnia too. They are tall and easy going, smiling and very hospitable. There is a spirit of rebuilding, creating, starting up. Some of the new companies have success, not all. But everywhere there is something going on. This is a region to watch.

Photo: Žilavka Salon in Trebinje This is a fantastic festival that allows you to know around 30 producers of Žilavka and taste their wines, next to a lot of delicious products from Herzegovina.

Photo: Radovan Vukoje in the Carski vineyard, south of Trebinje: the vineyard that was chosen by the Austrian emperor.

WINERIES
There are around 70 wineries in Herzegovina, in the list below a small selection. Most wineries are small family-owned and produce limited quantities. Only a few are bigger-sized and have the possibility to export.

Vukoje 1982
One of the leading wineries in all ex-YU countries, situated in Trebinje. Radovan Vukoje took over from his father and is putting all his energy in developing even more his winery. The winery house is impressive: 6 levels with the winery, the cellar, tasting room, a restaurant and on the top a terrace where people can enjoy the views with a glass of Žilavka. The winery produces 200.000 bottles of wine from 30 hectares from indigenous varieties like Žilavka and Vranac and the international varieties. They also produce Pinot Noir and Malvazija (Istarska). Radovan Vukoje studied viticulture in Belgrade and in Italy. It was Radovan’s idea to organize each year the Žilavka Salon in the Galerija Vukoje where wineries from all Herzegovina show their wines and some of the best chefs from Bosnia create wonderful dishes. It has become a central event in the wine scene of this region. All wines of Vukoje are of high standard. Žilavka is good, the Čarsko Vino is a wonderful aged version of Žilavka. The classical Vranac is one of the best of this variety that I tried – especially vintage 2018. And there is the Vranac reserve: this is an impressive wine. And then there is more: Chardonnay, Malvazija, Merlot, Syrah.

Vinogradi Nuic
Mr.Nuic is a dynamic entrepreneur of car parts who invested in wine. He has strong ties with Austria, because he organized the education for his children there and, as a consequence, now he is also producing Grüner Veltliner in Herzegovina. The winery, situated near Ljubuški, has a lot of success and as a result he is more seen in his winery then in the car parts shop.. He has built a new ambitious winery near Ljubuški where his son Vlatko is fulltime winemaker and they will soon produce more than 1 million bottles. This is one of the bigger producers of Herzegovina, a winery to follow. He produces excellent Žilavka and Blatina but has open eyes for international varieties. He received a lot of appraisal for his Trnjak, he will be more happy when you appreciate his Blatina, aged in oak barrels. He also started to produce Posip, which is from the Peljesac area in Kroatia at the other side of the mountains. His Touriga National is a remarkable wine: again a sign that Herzegovina can produce very interesting wines from many grape varieties.

Photo: Pasko Brkic proudly shows his Žilavka.
Brkic
This winery in Čitluk is among the most prominent producers of Bosnia-Herzegovina. A small producer, Josip Brkic works in the winery with his two sons. They produce an excellent Žilavka, and some rare orange wines with Žilavka. Also Blatina is an excellent wine. The Trnjak is lovely. Although small, this winery made a big impression on me.

Vinerija Domano
This is part of the former cooperative cellar in the area, situated near Domanovići. Here winemaker Josipa Andrijanic is responsible for the wines and she can profit from an impressive winemaking carreer of 18 years in many different countries in 4 different continents. The wines are witness of this: a very good fresh Žilavka, and an impressive aged and slightly oxidative Žilavka, good Blatina and an impressive Trnjak.

Photo: Zilavka Brut produced by Domano Winery

Tvrdoš Monastery – near Trebinje
As all monasteries, this is a spiritual fortress, but in this case the word spiritual has more meanings. A place with history, interesting to visit. In the past it was said that the property of this monastery went from here to Herceg Novi, which is now in Montenegro. For some time this place was under Venice and later came the Turks. Later it was destroyed and only rebuilt in 1928. During the 1990ies the wine production has been gradually restored. It has become an important wine producer in Herzegovina again. 10 monks and a retired bishop work 150 ha together with 30 employees: they produce not only wine but also olive oil and honey. Today the winery produces around 200.000 bottles of wine a year. Their Vranac is very good and the Žilavka is among my favorites. The wines won many awards. Probably this is the only monastery ever, that won a gold medal at the Decanter wine competition.

Photo: Tvrdos monastery

Škegro Winery
Small winery from Radišići near Ljubuški concentrating on Žilavka and Blatina. Their orange wine from Žilavka was the first of the region.

Vinarija Andušic
Small winery in the area west of Trebinje producing good Žilavka and Vranac.

Andjelic
A medium-size winery (30 ha) near Trebinje and guided by a lady, Mika Zubcevic Andjelic. They produce Žilavka, Chardonnay, Vranac, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and blends.

Begic
Small winery near Ljubuški producing Žilavka and Plavac Mali. It is thanks to their efforts that Plavac Mali is an allowed grape variety in Bosnia-Herzegovina.

Podrum Aćimović Trebinje
Small winery near Trebinje producing Žilavka, Chardonnay, Tamjanika, Vranac, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Vinerija Daorson
A cooperative that was recently founded near the village of Stolac which is a short distance from the border between the territory of the Bosnian Federation and the Republica Srpska. They produce Žilavka and Blatina.

Andrija cellar
One of the bigger cellars of the region, situated near Čitluk. They produce from 10 hectares but source grapes from 100 more hectares. Production includes Žilavka, Chardonnay, Blatina, Syrah, Vranac.

Vilinka cellar
A small winery situated just south of Mostar producing Žilavka, Blatina and cuvees.

Podrum Rozic
Small winery near Mostar

Hepok winery
In the past this winery near Mostar was the biggest cooperative of Herzegovina. But much of it was destroyed during the war. Due to some investments the winery has returned to produce wine and today it produces wine from 300 ha – still a small amount in comparison with the past.

Marijanovic
Small winery from Čitluk producing among others Žilavka and Blatina, but they are most known for their Grand Selection 33.

Matic winery
Small winery from Čapljina. All wines are inspired by music.

Milas winery
From Ljubuški, producing Žilavka, Blatina, Trnjak and other wines.

Ostojić winery
Seated in Čitluk this winery produces Žilavka, Blatina, Vranac and other wines.

Delic
Is a winery from Herzeg Novi (in nearby Montenegro) but has its vineyards here, near Trebinje.

Podrum Sekulović
Small producer, located along the road to Nikšić, producing Žilavka, Vranac, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet.

Čarski Vinogradi
Winery and hotel near Mostar producing Žilavka and Blatina.

Many thanks to Vukoje winery in Trebinje for their kind invitation to the Salon Žilavka and for your great hospitality. Many thanks to the many wineries that spent some time with me. Also many thanks to friend Željko Garmaz for your interesting book ‘Wine stories of Bosnia and Herzegovina’.

Photo: Radovan Vukoje speaking at the Salon Zilavka.

Photo: Bosnian sheeps cheese aged in sheep’s stomach.

Photo: Chef Nihad Mameledzija came especially from Sarajevo to present fine local dishes.

Photo: the medieval stone bridge of Trebinje.