Sulcis Iglesiente: interesting discoveries
The region Sulcis-Iglesiente (in Sardinian:(Meurreddìa-Igresiènti) in Southwest Sardinia offers wonderful landscapes, modern and ancient architecture, unique vineyards and a beautiful coast. On the search for interesting wines I arrived in the area of the town Iglesias where sommelier Simone Franceschi introduced me to the area. He told me about the importance of the mining history for this area: the Phoenicians knew about the strong metals found here, and later the Romans, the people from Pisa, the Genovese, the Spanish, and the Italians. The area was inhabited before the 18th century BC (Nuragic period) and probably also the first inhabitants were interested in the metals. Almost no region in Europe knows so many mines in a short distance. Simone, who is also a theologian, showed me the landscapes around, dominated by huge industrial structures, mining towers, almost small towns, all abandoned. In the mountains precious metals like silver, lead, and zink were found. Further south, near Carbonia, there were coal mines and the town Carbonia was built in the period of Mussolini. In the 11th century Pisa founded the town Iglesias. From the 13th until the 17th century this was Aragon, and Spanish territory and there is a lot of Spanish influence everywhere. And the island of Carloforte is inhabited by people who are direct descendants from Genoa. It means that the region also has a lot of cultural monuments of high interest.
‘We hope that tourism will start to develop now’, says Simone. Today, the mines are a monument of industrial archeology and have been included in the UNESCO tentative’s list. A tour through some old mining structures is an attraction. Apart from that the region also offers some interesting monuments from the Nuragic and Carthaginian period. Also lovers of the sea, and the crystal-clear waters of Sardinia can find a lot of fine opportunities here.
WINE POTENTIAL
But it is the wine that should be the most important argument for the area to become an interesting destination. And the soil structure of the area is of high interest: the Cixerri valley has deposits of minerals in the soil that will give an extra dimension to the wines. The geological structure of the mountains – they contain minerals like iron, zink, silver, lead – around has left deposits in the Sulcis area too. Therefore this area can be considered of high interest for viticulture. And the sandy soils of Sant’Antioco are unique because the Phylloxera did not arrive there. A lot of potential that can be used for quality wines.
WINE
The area can be divided in three subzones:
1 the valley that leads from the town Iglesias to the east: the Cixerri valley;
2 on the western side of the mountains, the area of Sulcis on the ‘mainland’;
3 the two islands Sant’Antioco and San Pietro (also called Carloforte).
The DOC Sulcis covers the area east of the mountains towards the sea and includes both islands but does not include the Cixerri valley. Wines from Cixerri can be labelled as Cagliari DOC but many winemakers prefer the IGT Isola dei Nuraghi that gives them some freedom of choice. Geologically speaking the Cixerri valley is very old and the soils are porous and contain fine gravelly parts with a high mineral content: very interesting for the production of quality wines. In the past there were many vineyards here but only 3 wineries remain.
The Sulcis area is quite large and has the biggest amount of vineyards, many of them close to the sea. They are situated on soils that are a mix of sand, clay and deposits from the mountains and can give good wines. Very special is the island Sant’Antioco: it is almost entirely covered with sandy soils where the Phylloxera could not arrive. As a result most plants are ungrafted, which means that they are standing on the original roots of the plant. It is another special gem of this area and Carignano wines from these old vines can be very special.
CARIGNANO
Carignano is the dominant grape variety in Sulcis Iglesiente. The DOC Carignano del Sulcis does not include the vineyards of the Cixerri valley, but also there Carignano offers excellent results. The grape variety (in France known as Carignan) is said to have its origins in Spain. In this area it gives some interesting results and when well-made the wine can be fascinating. The most particular aspect of Carignano is that it is harvested late September or in October, although it is grown in some of the warmest places of Italy. Despite the heat the wines can still contain a rather high acidity – combined with interesting flavors. The wine can age very well and preserves its freshness and aromas. This is why I think that Carignano from this area has a great future. The only problem is that many producers do not age the wine and start selling 9 months after the harvest. A great wine needs time to develop to greatness and Carignano is no exception. The best samples that I tasted were wines that were aged at least 3 or 4 years. And some of them were much older.
Sardinia possesses a lot of autochthonous varieties too. The most important grapes are: Monica, Bovale, Moscato, Nasco, Nuragus and Vermentino. Especially Monica can give very interesting wines in the area lightly spicy in a very elegant way.
Sulcis-Iglesiente is not only a mining territory: the wines from this area can be of high quality and very original. The intense flavors of an aged Carignano are very attractive and this gives the region a unique, strong identity that goes beyond its beautiful beaches.
WINES TASTED:
This is only a small selection and not representative for the entire region:
Cantina Arriali
Situated in the Cixerri valley. Owner Paolo Pitzolu is a very creative man. He thinks and works out-of-the-box and the results are very interesting. This is a winery to follow!
– Carignano IGT 2019
Very fine fruit, great purity and elegance. Fine tannins and length. The wine will show more of its potential with age.
He also produces Vermentino and some other wines. This winery merits attention.
Cantina Santadi
Based in the Sulcis area, not far from Carbonia, this is one of the most important wineries of Sardinia and has played an important role in the development of Sulcis. With some 250 members it covers an area of circa 650 ha. Very important was the contribution by Tuscan enologue Tachis who started working for this winery in 1975.
– Nuragus di Cagliari DOC 2021 Pedraia
Light and fresh aroma, fine and stylish, good acidity, medium length.
– Vermentino di Sardegna DOC 2021 Villa Solais
Very floral, fine fruit, hints of dried grass, small mineral touch, length
– Carignano del Sulcis DOC 2020
fruity and lighter style, some mineral aroma and fine fruit, medium length
– Carignano del Sulcis DOC 2019 riserva Rocca Rubia
Rich and delicate aroma, wealth of fruit and minerals
Character, with abundance of spices and minerals rounded by mature fruit
– Carignano del Sulcis DOC 2018 Terre Brune
partly aged on new oak, it offers soft fruity tones, jammy, a hint of spice
Very full-bodied, but smooth and well-done, fine fruit, balance, velvety and rich
Cantina Rubiu
Situated in the Cixerri valley, east of Iglesias, this is a young winery, managed by Roberto Rubiu and his father. Together they produce from their 11 ha some 80.000 bottles/year.
The winery has a high percentage of Monica wines produced from old vineyards: what a surprise! These wines are wonderful and I hope that these very fine wines remain in production. Alas, the market is small but the wine is wonderful.
– Monica di Sardegna 2021 Bsnoi
light herbs, fine aroma
Very delicate wine, with fine fruit, spice and length that makes me think of a brilliant Verduno Pelaverga from Barolo area. A wine that is very different from all the others but for the better: very interesting wine!
– Carignano igt 2021 Sumbra
This is a promising wine. There is fine fruit, some spices and length but the wine is too young to judge. It needs more time.
Cantina Aru
Small winery in the Cixerri valley, east of Iglesias. The vineyards are on alluvial soils with a very high stones and mineral content – due to the vicinity of the mountains that provided these minerals.
The winery has an old Spanish house that is visitable and reminds of the Spanish period.
– Vermentino 2021
fine, fruity style, some dried grass, typical
– Carignano 2021
This wine offers some fine spices, but it is still very young and needs more time for aging.
Tenuta Evaristano
Winery in Sulcis area, working organically. They work 100 ha but don’t produce Carignano.
But the other wines are worth seeking out:
– Vermentino 2021 Is Araus
Rich and wonderful Vermentino, abundance of fruit, some hints of mineral and elegance.
– Bovale, IGT Isola dei Nuraghi 2021
Alas this is 2021, too young for a wine to show greatness! The wine contains a lot of fruit, intense style, strong tannins, and length. The wine has potential but it will show with some aging.
Ercole Lenzu
Small winery, near Iglesias, working 15 ha.There vineyards have sandy soils but also the mix of chalk and gravel, typical for the Cixerri valley.
– Vermentino di Sardegna DOC 2021
Fine fruit, minerals and a hint of vanilla. Refined and elegant.
– Carignano IGT 2020
produced from ungrafted vines and according to the winery the wine did not have a malolactic fermentation. The wine gives young fruit and some spices.
Az.Agr.Sant’André
A winery near Carbonia in the Sulcis area.
– Vermentino 2021
Fine fruit, elegance and typical
– Carignano 2020
Very young, fruity style, some spices and some hints of berries. A wine that will give more expression with age.
Taris
A small winery near Santadi in the Sulcis area.
– Vermentino DOC 2021
Very young, floral style, fine minerals.
– Carignano 2019
This is made from ungrafted vines near the sea. It gives the wine a special accent: fine spices, some good acidity and fine fruit. A wine that can age.
Sardus Pater
A cooperative cellar based on the island of Sant’Antioco. They have around 250 members and cover about 180 ha.
– Vermentino Sardegna DOC 2021
Very nice, rich style, fine fruit, minerals and length. Very elegant. It shows that Vermentino can have special characteristics in this area. Different from more famous areas, but as interesting.
– Carignano 2020
A young wine with 6 months on bottle. Light character, some spices, easy drinking.
– Carignano del Sulcis riserva 2019 Lis Arenas
The name refers to the sandy soils on the island. Matured 6 month on oak.
Very well-made wine, full-bodied and intense red fruit. The wine is still young and can age.
– Carignano superiore 2018 Arruga
This is still very young but a great wine. Wonderful expression of terroir with fine spices, minerals, fruit and acidity. Offers length and can age well. This wine is one of my preferences.
Enrico Esu
A small winery from Carbonia.
– Carignano 2020 ‘NERO’
Produced from a vineyard 10 km from the sea and on sandy soils.
A great wine: very intense velvety fruit, fresh and concentrated. Fine tannins and some spices. The wine is still very young and will develop more in the years to come. A wine to follow.
Eural Sulcis
A small winery near Sant’Antioco in the Sulcis area.
This winery offers 4 different styles of Carignano: the first one has no oak aging and very short aging before bottling. The second one has more aging before bottling. The third one has oak aging but rather delicate and not too much. The fourth has a lot of oak aging and needs a lot of time to develop:
– Carignano del Sulcis DOC 2020 Primo Solko
fine aroma, some spices, easy going and easy drinkable
– Carignano del Sulcis DOC 2020 Janas
this has a more intense aroma with strong red fruit
The wine offers intense fruit, with quite some tannins, freshness, a ‘bite’ and can develop more years.
– Carignano del Sulcis DOC 2019 Solky
A wine with more skin contact, longer aging and some oak maturation
The aroma is soft, fruity but becomes more complex and intense and offers an abundance of fruit
Fine acidity in the finish.
– Carignano del Sulcis DOC riserva 2019 Ortigu
A wine that clearly had some oak aging.
Fine aromas with mediterranean herbs, spices and some mature red fruit
very intense, but still young. The wine has some strong tannins that makes me think the the wine needs time to develop.
This will become a very intense, rich wine.
Many thanks to Simone Franceschi and to Mario Bonamici for the organization of my visit.
