SLOVENIAN ISTRIA

PHOTO TOP: During the fantastic tasting with wineries from Slovenian Istria. From left to right: Matej Korenika with his wife, Uros Rojac, Mojca Bordon, Santomas winery, Rok Razman, Ingrid Mahnic.

Always forgotten because the tourists drive directly to Croatia. And always forgotten because too close to Trieste, the town that played such an important role in the development of the local viticulture. And always forgotten because nobody has ever realized that this small piece of land, a mere 43 kilometers of coastline in Slovenia, the northern part of the peninsula of Istria, is of such stunning beauty. But it is. And it has much to offer and merits being studied in detail.
And still, the beauty of this wonderful area does not show directly: when you enter Slovenian Istria from Trieste, you have to pass the industrial area of Koper, industry, large loading docks with thousands of cars, and hills completely built up with houses. A few large cargo ships, and if you’re lucky, you’ll see some vineyards in the distance. And yet, this area can also be defined as ´Tuscany by the coast´ because it offers such a beautiful pattern of vineyards, interesting wines, picturesque towns, history, a wonderful gastronomy, and amazing landscapes. There are the peninsulas of Piran and Ankaran, on the latter also a huge vineyard area, and there is a larger hinterland with various types of landscapes, forests, and beautiful small villages.

PHOTO: vineyards near the bay of Koper (Capodistria), ships are waiting in front of the harbour.

History
The history of the area was dominated by Trieste: founded by the Romans, it remained an important trade center for over 2.000 years. Later, during the Middle Ages, Koper (or: Capodistria) became Venetian territory and started to play an important role in trade and also politically. For both Trieste and Koper, the wine trade became important. Trieste had 1.500 ha of vineyards until 1950 and played a leading role in the international wine trade. When the merchants from Trieste needed higher volumes of wines, they went to Istria to plant more vineyards to boost the production. This development marked the distribution of grape varieties: the reason why, in the past, most varieties from around Trieste were also distributed in Istria. Usually, there were many different grape varieties in each vineyard, and, probably, varieties like Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia, Glera, Nera Piccola, Žlahtina, Refosco were distributed from Trieste to Istria (this is my personal opinion, PB). The older people from Istria can tell how they once harvested Ribolla Gialla, a grape variety that is now more related to Collio, Brda, and Friuli.
The ties between Istria and Friuli were also close: In the 12^th century, the abbeys of Friuli and Istria maintained relations; the Rosazzo abbey owned vineyards in Istria.
After 1797, Istria became part of the Habsburg empire (with a short French intermezzo); in 1920 it became Italy; from 1945 until 1954 it was undefined territory, and from 1954 it became part of Yugoslavia. Only since 1991, the comunes of Koper, Izola, and Piran became part of the new sovereign Republic of Slovenia (the rest of Istria went to Croatia). There is still a large Italian minority around Koper, and almost all inhabitants speak Italian as a second language.

Due to the fact that Slovenia entered the EU in 2004 (and Schengen in 2007), a strict border had to be created between the Slovenian and the Croatian part of Istria: for the first time in history, there was a formal border control inside Istria. When Croatia entered Schengen, it became less strict, but due to COVID and other reasons, the borders between both parts of Istria are often controlled.

PHOTO: the town Piran is one of the jewels at the Adriatic coast: it was built on a small peninsula during the Venetian period. Piazza Tartini is dedicated to the violinist and composer who lived there.

Climate and soils
As everywhere in the North Adriatic, the climate is dominated by the presence of the Adriatic Sea and the mountains, which creates a strong exchange of hot and cold air. This allows the grapes to mature beautifully and slowly, while retaining their acidity. And, like in Collio and Brda, layers of Flysch are found along a long ridge of many kilometers, from around the town of Trieste, continuing into Istria. Winemakers tell you that there are local differences between Flysch from one place and another. But it is clear that the Flysch soils are an important aspect for the quality of the wines of Slovenian Istria, even if they are a bit different from the Flysch from Cormons. Flysch is known as the basis for some of the world´s most fascinating wines, and therefore it is a bit strange that only a relatively small group of winemakers is working on quality on this fantastic terroir. To me, it seems that there is a bright future for Slovenian Istria, and it is up to the most talented winemakers to catch it.

PHOTO: the small village of Costabona in the interior, one of the many picturesque places in Slovenian Istria.

Viticulture
Slovenian Istria is maybe the most unknown part of the North Adriatic, but there is considerable wine production on more than 2.300 hectares. It was dominated by the cooperative system during the Yugoslav period. After the fall of Yugoslavia in 1991, the winemakers of Istria suddenly found themselves in different countries: Slovenia or Croatia. At first, they wanted to continue with a single consorzio that covered both wine regions (SLO and HR), but alas, this proved impossible. Like in Brda, also in Slovenian Istria, a growing number of private wineries have come up with a series of interesting and very individual wine styles (see below).
Slovenian Istria is not only the coast. The hills slowly climb up to more than 300 meters above sea level. This area has Tuscany-like landscapes, charming hilltop villages, wonderful views, vineyards, olive trees, and large forests. Gradually going east, there is only agriculture in some places, surrounded by forest. Then, after some 40 or 50 kilometers, it changes into a mountainous region where a huge natural park borders Croatia. The harvest in the hinterland can be three weeks later than in the coastal area: it shows the difference in the local micro-climates.
The dominant grape varieties in Slovenian Istria are Malvazija and Refošk. Refošk is also called Refosco d’Istria (Refosko Istriano or Refosco dal Pedunculo Verde), and is grown in Slovenian and Croatian parts of Istria, and around Trieste in Italy under the name of Refošk or Refosco d’Istria. It is part of the large family of Refosco grapes. Mostly, it gives a fruity and young drinkable style, but some producers are aging it in wood and presenting a wonderful aged version. In the past, also Ribolla Gialla, Plavina, Vitovska, Moscato, Cividin, Picolit, Arzioli, Moscato Rosa, Marzemino, and Glera were planted, and maybe some remaining rows are still surviving. Rumeni muškat, Maločrn (Negratenera), Cipro (Red Muscat) are still present. Also, ‘Borgogna’ is found – it might be Gamay, but maybe the name covers different grape varieties. Like elsewhere, also in Istria, there is confusion with names.. And, logically, there are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Gamay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon: these wines have a high importance in the area today.
An interesting project is developing, by two young and talented winemakers, Tilen Praprotnik (Steras) and Rok Razman (Razman): they have researched vineyards in their region and found many local and unknown varieties and have started to plant them in their vineyards. In the next years, we will see more results from these experiments.

PHOTO: vineyards near the sea. Slovenian Istria’s vineyards are based on Flysch soils, capable of giving interesting wines with a mineral touch.

Venetian towns
Slovenian Istria has a huge number of highly interesting cultural monuments. The three coastal towns, Piran, Izola, and Koper, are jewels and reflect the long period of Venetian influence with palaces and buildings in Venetian style. Especially Piran is magnificent, tiny, with a picturesque town center, all around the piazza Tartini. Another interesting monument is 45 45-minute drive in the hinterland of Slovenian Istria: the church of Hrastovlje with frescoes of great artistic value.

PHOTO: at the Orange Wine Festival in Izola: it attracts thousands of wine lovers from many countries.

Gastronomy
Slovenia is becoming an important destination for gastronomy, and Slovenian Istria shows why. The richness of Istria’s gastronomy stems from its history, dominated by influences from Italy, Venice, Austria, Slavic countries, and Hungary. The sea offers an abundance of fresh fish. Ham (Pršut) from Istria is based on very old traditions. Slovenian Istria’s olive oil is fantastic, and this alone is a reason to visit the area. And, there are the truffles: the delicious black truffles are available almost the entire year, and chefs like Tomaž Bevčič create wonderful dishes with them. There is a new wave of delightful trattorias and small restaurants, although there are no *stars. Strangely, for such an important tourist destination, prices are moderate.
Recommended restaurants in Slovenian Istria:
Rizibizi: Chef Tomaž Bevčič makes impressive creations with fresh fish and truffles. Based in Portoroz.
www.rizibizi.si
Domacija Razman: Situated in the highest part of Slovenian Istria, near Gračišče. Easy-going trattoria with local food, and with a nice selection of wines made by the family Razman.
www.razman.si
Kogo: an innovative and dynamic place, based in the same building as Vinakoper Winery. Led by an enthusiastic team of young guys from Istria.
www.kogo.si
Marina Hotel restaurant in Izola.
https://hotelmarina.si/en/restaurant/
Stara Gostilna: situated in the center of Piran, a nice, local trattoria, with a modern touch.
www.stara-gostilna.com
Hiša Torkla: situated in the village of Korte.
www.hisa-torkla.si

PHOTO: a ship waiting in the bay of Koper, with vineyards in Ankaran on the foreground.

WINERIES:
All wineries offer mostly a choice of Malvazija and Refosk, some wineries also produce other varieties.
– Korenika & Moskon: One of the leading wineries of the region, founded in 1984. Demeter-certified and working on 25 hectares. Led by passionate winemaker, Matej Korenika, this winery has a lot of success internationally with their wines.
www.korenikamoskon.si
– Rojac: Uros Rojac took the family winery and developed it to an organic winery, with an individual style with skin-macerated Malvazija and aged Refosk. The wines show the character of the maker.
www.rojac.eu
– Razman: Small family winery, high in the hills near Gračišče. Here, the sea influence is more indirect, and the wines have a slightly higher acidity than in the coastal areas. Rok Razman is experimenting with local grape varieties that he has found in the area.
www.razman.si
– Santomas: one of the bigger wineries of the area, with 24 hectares of vineyards and also around 5 hectares of olive production. An impressive cellar complex high on the hill near Šmarje. Producing a solid range of wines.
www.santomas.si
– Mahnic: A historical estate near Dragonja, where the family Mahnic is working for many generations. From 15 hectares, they produce premium wines from at least 10 different grape varieties. The estate also boasts a trattoria where many people come to eat on the weekends and enjoy the wines.
www.kmetija-mahnic.com/en/
– Bordon: A family business, in fact the first private winery in the area, situated near Dekani. Here several generations are working and living together. Grandfather Ivan Bordon started the winery in 1985 and now his grandson is continuing and produces a range of local wines.
Www.bordon-wines.com
– STeraS: The winery of the family Praprotnik in the village of Šared, above Izola. The young enologist Tilen has taken over the winery and, next to Refošk and Malvazija, he dedicates himself also to autochthonous, almost forgotten grape varieties from Slovenian Istria like: Cipro, Maločrn, Bontempa, Black Burgundy, White Refosco, Pinjola, Kanarjola, Izolanka, and others.
www.steras.com
– Vinakoper: the biggest winery in the area, a former cooperative, situated near Koper. The winery produces wines from 580 hectares, almost 1/3 of the entire production of Slovenian Istria. Visitors must always see the biggest vat in the huge cellar, but more important is the reliable quality produced by this gigantic winery. Next to Refošk and Malvazija, they produce a full range of wines. It is also the site of a popular restaurant: Kogo (see above).
www.vinakoper.si

Other wineries: Rodica, Hlabjan, Vina Zaro, Bric, Vina Montis, Kralj.

Learn more? Read my book NORTH ADRIATIC (in Italian: Alto Adriatico). Available at paulbalke.com

PHOTO: Olives and olive oil from Slovenian Istria are of very high quality. The important local variety is Bianchera (IT) or Belica (SLO-HR). But there are other varieties found, like storta, carbonera/carbonassa, busa, spungosa, puntosa, rosignola, crnica, piranska komuna, and leccino from Tuscany. Istrian olive oil offers wonderful perfumes of fresh grass, can be considered one of the finest.

PHOTO: nice, gastronomic dish, prepared by Tomaž Bevčič in his restaurant Rizibizi near the sea in Portoroz.

PHOTO: Izola (Isola, IT): a former fisherman’s island, during the Venetian period filled with beautiful palaces and churches, a reminder of former wealth. Each year the quiet ambiance changes for the annual Orange Wine Festival that attracts visitors from all over the world.

PHOTO: Hrastovlje
The fortified SS.Trinità Church at Hrastovlje/Cristoglie, built in the 12^th-13^th century. Situated high in the mountainous interior of Slovenian Istria. It contains wonderful frescoes.