IRPINIA, STRONG AND UNIQUE

Photo: Monte Tuoro, the most central mountain in Irpinia, situated between Avellino and Taurasi

Irpinia is one of the most remarkable and particular wine regions of Italy. It has to be considered among Europe´s most prominent wine regions, together with Langhe, Cote d´Or, Pauillac, and others. The wines of Irpinia possess a special character, fine acidity and strong aromas, due to the high position of the vineyards. Once tasted, you will never forget them. These are wines with aging potential, both white and red, and with time they develop austere and intense richness of flavors and perfumes. Although they are real gems for connoisseurs and collectors, Irpinia has not yet been discovered by the international public, maybe due to its position in Italy’s far south. But it seems a question of time because gradually the international attention for Irpinia is growing.
A special character of the wines – Taurasi DOCG, Fiano di Avellino DOCG and Greco di Tufo DOCG – is their ageability: both the white and the red wines show their character after several years: it is important that the market understands this aspect!
Mountainous – there is even a ski region – Irpinia has preserved its authentic character, despite many earthquakes. There are a lot of small, picturesque villages and a beautiful nature: it boasts a rural charm and has several unique characteristics. This country offers some of Italy´s most excellent wines.

Photo: map Campania: Irpinia is another word for the province Avellino (in dark), one of the five provinces of Campania.

UNUSUAL CLIMATE
Irpinia´s climate is extremely unusual: it has cold winters and relatively short summers. The mountains protect it against the hot air from the coastal area and snow in winter is common. But the southern sun is strong enough to make the grapes develop intense and strong aromas giving the wines character and body. The vineyards are situated between 300 and 750 meters height and the fluctuating day and night temperatures help preserve aromas and acidity: this is not a Mediterranean climate. One fascinating aspect is that the harvest of Aglianico grapes for Taurasi DOCG starts late October and often does not finish until half November or even later! There can be vintages were Aglianico is harvested until December! Most red wines in the Northern hemisphere have already finished fermentation when Aglianico grapes are starting to arrive in the cellar. And all this is just one hour from Naples.
Remarkably enough, olives can thrive here too, up to 700 meters high. I do not understand why the olive tree can survive in this cold climate whereas in other parts (Tuscany, Istria, Friuli) many plants died because of severe frost. How is it possible that they can resist frost here? Does the soil of Irpinia contain a special secret?

CLIMATE
The climate in Irpinia is extremely particular and the most important reason behind the fascinating wines that Irpinia produces. Winters are cold, and at the higher positions a light frost happens often. Snow can arrive in the period from December until March, although climate change has caused changes in the pattern. During the months of March and April the weather is often an alternation between cold, rainy days and warm, sunny weather. In May the average temperatures may go higher but there still can be a few cold and rainy days. June can be almost summer, but rain can arrive still often. July and August are generally warm, but not too hot because the nights are cooler because cold air streams down from the mountains. Autumn starts already during September although there can be hot summer days too. October is sunny and stable and often the harvest of the Aglianico grapes starts around 15 October. In some places the harvest can take longer until even the first days of December.
It is not only the Aglianico that is harvested late: also Fiano, Greco and Coda di Volpe are not harvested before half September or into October. One producer told me he harvests a part of his Fiano also in the first week of December and the wine was a delight, without any sign of botrytis, it had more body and intensity without losing too much acidity. Also this shows the exceptional potential of Irpinia´s vineyards.

Photo: the village Taurasi and vineyards. Taurasi DOCG is one of Italy´s most prominent DOCGs but has remained in the shadow of other important wines.

MUSEUM VINEYARDS
Another remarkable aspect of Irpinia is the vast amount of old and extremely old vineyards. The vines just do not die here in the same way as they do elsewhere. There are many vineyards 80-90-100 years old, but others are 150 years old and a few of them even 200 years or older. They were planted during Napoleon. It makes Irpinia a museum of some of the world´s most antique vineyards and this alone can be a reason for many international wine experts to visit Irpinia. And why did they not die? The easy answer might be the vulcanic soil but it is not that easy: it is true that Phylloxera did not have a big impact in the area, but it has arrived. But whatever the presence of Phyloxera, the vines can reach an impressive age, that is unique in the wine world.
Analyses of those old vineyards show that Aglianico is often 80% of the varieties present. This is remarkable, because 200 years ago most vineyards in Europe were a mix of 15-20 grape varieties without any variety dominating. It shows that the farmers had understood the importance of Aglianico.
In Irpinia, this heritage of monumental value is hardly recognized. It is not uncommon that a local farmer, unaware of the value he has in his hands, picks the grapes from these high-value vineyards and brings them with his tractor to a merchant who pays relatively low prices. Clearly, the region has not yet realized its full potential.

Photo: old vineyards in Irpinia: Franco Addimanda poses next to his 200 year old plant of Grecomusc, a local variety.

SOILS
Irpinia has everything: it possesses a marine, calcareous and sandy soil, rich in clay and volcanic material. The Fiano area is generally more rocky. Entering the heart of the province of Avellino, you arrive in the area of Montefredane, in the Sabato Valley: here the soils are looser. In Tufo the situation is more homogeneous, but you just have to go up to altitude to find looser and sandier soils, rich in skeleton. Towards Lapio, the land is volcanic, with the presence of soft clay and rocks and also inside the Taurasi DOCG area there are small parts with volcanic soils. Montemarano, an area that is rich in clay soils, possesses a lot of dark earth and offers a more masculine style of Aglianico. Castelfranci, on the opposite, possesses more skeleton soils, that is poorer, giving finer and more elegant expressions of Aglianico. At Paternopoli, the land is different again, as also the wines. The area of the village Taurasi, however, is more downstream and has great historical significance: here was the railway, where trains full of grapes left for the north, especially in the years in which phylloxera had destroyed the vineyards across Italy.

Photo: a vineyards with old vines of at least 90 years old, but maybe even 150 years old! (Photo: courtesy of Tenuta Cavalier Pepe).

HISTORY
Although Campania was part of Magna Graecia, the internal regions did not benefit much from that period. The most important remains of Roman times is the Via Appia that goes from Rome to Brindisi through Irpinia. Later, Naples became the capital of the Reign of the two Sicilies, and Campania became an important source for grapes on the peninsula. After the Italian unification, the South served as a source for cheap wines to be mixed with the wines from the North. It was the period when the Mastroberardino family started their commercial activities and managed to sell wines from Campania all over the world. After 1945, Irpinia entered a long period of lethargy of which it has not yet completely recovered. In this period the Mastroberarino family managed to preserve the authentic, local grapes – Aglianico, Fiano, Greco, and others: an important fact in a period when the trend in Italy was to replant vineyards with French grapes. The earthquake of 1980 was another big shock. There were many casualties but it also opened the eye of the Italian government for Irpinia. New roads were built and the flow of money allowed many wine producers to start up their company. Alas, there is still the trend that many young people are trying to get away for a job and a better life elsewhere. Taurasi DOCG, Irpinia´s most important brand, clearly offers potential for development of the local economy and this can be important for Irpinia´s future.

BIODIVERSITY
The name ´Irpinia´ is derived from the Roman word ´hirpus´ (wolf). Near Lioni and Bagnoli you can sometimes hear wolves howling from the mountains in the night. The area has large forests. This is one of South Italy´s biggest water reservoirs and a big part of Southern Italy receives their daily drinking water from Irpinia. Because of the humidity drought is not a problem here.
One of Irpinia´s most important assets is its biodiversity: unlike Burgundy or Barolo there is not a blanket of vineyards, covering the hills. In Irpinia they are covered with a mosaic of forests, olives, hazelnuts, other cultivations, and vineyards. It allows the producers to limit the treatments in the vineyards to 6-7 times a year, at least half the amount of the treatments elsewhere. In a wine market where sustainability and environment are becoming essential, Irpinia has it all. The only problem is that the local inhabitants are not aware and this is a problem: unnecessary fires and pollution are problems that should be taken care of, if Irpinia wants to make it into a high-class wine region.

TAURASI DOCG: Barolo of the South?
The epicentre of Irpinia is Taurasi DOCG: it belongs to the elite of Europe´s viticulture and plays in the same league as Barolo and Brunello. Some authors continue to use the phrase ´Barolo of the South´ but it is not right, because both are very different. But this is a great wine, giving the most intense and wonderful expression of Aglianico grapes. Its almost unmatched aging potential has to do with the constitution of the wine, its high acidity, strong tannins, intense body, and medium to high alcohol levels. Normally the wine starts to open up after 6 or 7 years of age but it is really worth waiting longer. After 10 or 15 years the wine is still very fresh and the perfumes and flavors have only become more refined without losing its fragrance and the wine has won in elegance. Taurasi is one of those wines that will generously reward patience. It makes Taurasi unique and could become a favorite of many connoisseurs and collectors worldwide.
The area for Taurasi DOCG is a small part of Irpinia, east of Monte Tuoro and along the Calore valley: it is produced in 17 communes. Although it is thought that the wines of Montemarano, Paternopoli and Castelfranci are giving the most austere versions – just like Serralunga in Barolo – it might be too early for conclusions. The best producers are in every corner of the area, also lower-lying vineyards produce some of the best Taurasis. A development of vineyards with ´cru-status´ still needs to start. The university of Naples, with prof.Boris Basile, has started a project of identifying the subzones of Taurasi.
Strange enough for a flagship wine, the demand for Taurasi DOCG is low and producers produce limited quantities, afraid that they might not sell it. Often they prefer to produce easy going-styles like Irpinia Aglianico DOC or Campi Taurasini DOC (both can be good too!). It means there is a big potential to win, both for the producers and for the market.
The good news is also the price: for those looking for a unique, rich and prestigious wine for a reasonable price there is a chance in Taurasi. For as long as it takes: if the wine reaches the status of fame the price development might go in the same direction as Barolo and Brunello. For all those who want to be among the first to discover this high-potential wine region, this is the moment.
Read also:
https://paulbalke.com/taurasi-the-jewel-from-south-italy/

FIANO DI AVELLINO DOCG
Taurasi is the first and Fiano di Avellino DOCG is the second wine in Irpinia´s hierarchy: it is one of Italy´s most important white wines. Its production area is more or less between Taurasi and Avellino. It offers a rich panorama of flavor and taste, floral and mineral in character, can be very refined, and is very suited for high gastronomy. But the impressive range of flavors and perfumes only comes with age, as does this ´oily´ character (idrocarburo). It has a medium-high acidity and develops medium to high alcohol levels. Who wants to learn about Fiano should taste older versions.
It is a big problem that many restaurants offer Fiano in a too young stage. This way consumers never get the chance to discover the real qualities of Fiano.
Also Fiano can be site-specific and gives other perfumes when produced in a warmer area. Like with Aglianico, also for Fiano it seems there is still a lot of work to do to understand its specific characteristics related to the various soil conditions.
There is also Irpinia Fiano DOC, it is also found in Sannio and there are great Fianos from Cilento.
I will write more about Fiano later: follow this space!

GRECO DI TUFO DOCG
The third important wine is Greco di Tufo DOCG. Grape varieties with the name Greco are found in Calabria, Lazio, Umbria and Tuscany, but this Greco is not related to the others and only found in Campania, mostly in Irpinia and Sannio. It has incredible character, it is even tannic and boasts a high acidity, when young it can be aggressive. It is like a red wine, dressed as a white wine. It has a great body, is not very aromatic, but with aging develops nice hints of almonds and mature fruit. It is very dominant and requires strong food. It benefits from aging: generally speaking the best producers are those who give the wine time to develop. Bottling too early (with the idea to present it at fairs) is not the best idea. When aged it can give great length and becomes a wonderful and rich white wine. One producer (Calafe) ages it 10 years before bringing it on the market: his wines are a wonderful example of mature and rich wines, showing the great potential of Greco di Tufo.
I will write more about Greco di Tufo later: follow this space!

CAMPI TAURASINI DOC
This DOC has been created more recently and covers 21 comunes: the 17 comunes of Taurasi, and some comunes south and east of the Taurasi DOCG area. Production of this wine is still limited. But for those who prefer Aglianico in a younger and more easy to drink version, Campi Taurasini is a great idea. Considering that Langhe Nebbiolo and Rosso di Montalcino have become very popular, it might be an option for Campi Taurasini. Some examples are rather light but among the samples that I tasted there were some really good ones.

IRPINIA DOC and other wines
Other grape varieties are Coda di Volpe, Falanghina, Greco Musc, Trebbiano (all white), Aglianicone, Piedirosso, Barbera, Scascinoso, Sangiovese, Coda di Volpe rosso (all red). And there might be more. They can be used for DOC Irpinia. Chardonnay, Merlot or Cabernet are not present in Irpinia.
Coda di Volpe is mostly found in the higher, southern part of the Taurasi area (and in minor quantities elsewhere in Campania). In the hands of a good producer it can be an outstanding wine with wonderful richness, minerality, elegance and power.
Falanghina is found in smaller quantities and is not considered as ´typical for Irpinia´ but can give great wines, especially when it is given some time to mature. A pity that this aspect of Falanghina is a bit under the radar, but maybe it is logical because there are so many great white wines here. It has a high acidity but is different in style from Greco, it is more easy-going and refined, and has no tannins. Other grape varieties, like Coda di Volpe rosso, are very rare, and not classified.
Blends are produced too and logically, they are under the umbrella of Irpinia DOC. There are great wines here too, often a blend of Fiano and Greco. Still, I think that at the level of blends there is a world to win with Irpinia’s wines. I will write more about this aspect: keep following me!

AGLIANICO – the wine
The red wine of Irpinia is Aglianico. It comes in many versions: Taurasi DOCG is its best version, there is also Campania Aglianico IGT, Irpinia Aglianico DOC, and vino da tavola. When the customer asks for ´just Aglianico´ the restaurant owner will know that he wants the basic wine. Most of the wines are easy to drink indeed, offering some of the flavors and perfumes that are typical of Aglianico (blackberries, plums). Some versions can be more austere, but they are far away from Taurasi, also because most of the wines have not aged.

AGLIANICO – the grape
Aglianico is one of Italy’s most important grape varieties, together with Nebbiolo, Sangiovese. Probably it is the result of a crossing between Aglianicone and the rare Campanella grape. There is an indication of a genetic relation with Syrah. Relation to any Greek variety can be excluded. It grows mainly in Campania and Basilicata. It has small, tight bunches, strong tannins and a great freshness (due to the high acidity) and aromatic richness.
Its perfume is intense and refined, with a bouquet layered on delicious violets, blueberries, cherries, currants and hints of rose petals, but also spicy notes of black pepper and tobacco, eucalyptus, liquorice and menthol. With aging it can develop balsamic notes, and wonderful hints of mature fruit, sour cherries, plums, figs and sweet spices. It is a dry, full-bodied wine, with an excellent structure and excellent persistence. It offers powerful, smooth tannins, supported by a marked acidity. The acidity and strong tannins make that the wine has a great aging capacity.
Aglianico expresses its maximum potential after several years of maturation in wood and just as many years of refinement in the bottle. The youthful tannins become softer and more accessible with age: and then Aglianico reaches the perfect harmony making it one of Europe´s great wines, especially if it is Taurasi DOCG.

VISITING IRPINIA
Irpinia is one hour drive from Naples and Pompei and a great number of well equiped cellars is happy to receive you and offer a wine tasting. Public transport is not well organized but it seems that there is an increasingly amount of local touroperators, offering cellar tours to Irpinia. There is a limited number of local restaurants, most of them offering good quality and fair prices, local, rustic food, a few are offering a more sophisticated cuisine. There are only two starred restaurants.

RECENT VINTAGES OF TAURASI:
2023
Difficult but with highlights. A difficult vintage with an unusual long period of rain during spring (March until June) which caused that the nature was much behind in development. Some hailstorms caused damage. During the hot summer the grapes gain pace but there remained some delay of the development and harvest was rather late: from late October until November and even into December. There will be some great wines, but limited quantities.
2022
Difficult but with highlights. The warm period started early and continued until mid August. August and September saw hailstorms and excessive rains, that caused considerable damage although the problem of drought was resolved. There was a big reduction of yields – 20%. Stable autumn weather creates the expectation of very interesting wines.
2021
?
2020
Excellent vintage, almost like 2019. Higher than average temperatures during the summer until October favoured excellent ripening of Aglianico. There was some unstable weather which means that the expectations are a bit lower then for 2019. The wines have good phenolics and a good acidity.
2019
Excellent: one of the best vintages ever. Higher than average temperatures in September and October favoured excellent ripening of Aglianico. Good yields. The result gives wines with good phenolic maturity and good acidity. There will be many great wines with excellent aging potential but due to the warm weather they will also be rather soon ready for drinking.
2018 ?
2017 ?
2016 ?
2015 ?
2014 ?
2013 ?
2012
Good vintage, not excellent, lower quantities. Good wines, and some excellent wines. Good aging potential.
2011
Good vintage, almost great. Qualitatively slightly below the top vintage of 2010. Stable weather with very hot summer, a little rain in October. Very good wines, altough the general opinion is that 2010 was slightly higher in quality.
2010
Great vintage, with warm, sunny weather and some rains. Only the rainfall in the first half of october was a problem for some. Winemakers with patience could harvest from half october till 15 november in excellent conditions. Great wines, with full ripeness and elegance, excellent aging potential
2009
Mixed results. Warm and sunny and very rainy. There are wines with great aging potential.
2008
Very good. Expressive, harmonious, dynamic. Excellent development potential
2007
Rather good. Balanced, fleshy, accessible. Excellent development potential
2006
Mixed results. Warm, capricious, heterogeneous. The best wines are powerful and nervous, they need time to develop
2005
Very good. Fresh, articulated, elegant. Long aging potential
2004
Very good. Regular, late, austere and long aging potential
2003
Various results. Dry, horizontal, vital. Ready, good development potential
2002
Problematic vintage. Rainy. Ready, discreet evolutionary potential
2001
Mixed results. Sunny, powerful, tannic. Ready, good evolutionary potential
2000
Medium. Warm, ripe, heterogeneous. Ready, drink now
1999
Standard, good but not excellent. Classic, severe, acidic. Long aging potential.

Many thanks to the Consorzio of Irpinia, the many producers of Irpinia that gave me the opportunity to taste their wines, to Miriade & Partners for the great event Campania Stories! Special thanks to Chiara Romano (Antico Castello) for the invitation to visit Irpinia, Milena Pepe, for your passionate and great hospitality, Piero Mastroberardino, Michele Perillo, Gerardo Perillo and many others.