Coronica Gran Teran

Photo: Moreno Coronica in his vineyards

Istria is that wonderful peninsula in the shape of a grape bunch south of Trieste. During Yugoslavia it was a touristic hotspot, but the cooperative system did not allow attention to quality – it was mass production. Today, Istria has developed into one of Europe’s most interesting wine regions. Quality has improved and it is helpful that Istria is so close to Italy: the influence of the Italian (viti)culture can be felt everywhere. There is a great number of highly professional wineries and a tasting of Istrian wines is a wonderful experience that offers you the chance to know so many great wines. It has become one of the most interesting parts of the North Adriatic. And there is one winery that stands out here: Coronica.

Photo: vineyards near Umag (Istria, HR) of Coronica winery

In the period when Friuli and Istria were part of the Habsburg empire, his family came from Friuli and settled in this area. Moreno Coronica inherited his passion for the vineyards from his father. One of the first things he realized is the importance of the vineyards: he knew that the quality of the wine is made in the vineyard, not in the cellar. As a result he dedicated much attention to his vineyards. The 21 hectares are well cared for and Coronica tends to give a maximum of 7 treatments a year without using fertilizers or herbicides. His wines could easily be certified as organic but there is indication on the label. He does not want to expand too much: ‘I would not be a farmer anymore, it would become too big. If I have to choose between farmer and winemaker, I choose to be a farmer.’ he says.
The vineyards are located around the winery in a beautiful scenery. The red soils and the Karst-like white rocks play a crucial role in the quality of the wine; also the sea has impact: the sea breezes cool the vineyards in summer and help to avoid frost in the winter. This is the typical landscape of Istria, in combination with a forest with ancient oaks and a rich fauna. There are magnificent views on the Adriatic sea and with clear weather the Austrian Alps can be seen across the sea.
During the period of research for my book North Adriatic, I met Moreno and he immediately gave me the impression of someone with great knowledge but also a modest person, easy going, and who keeps his eye on the most important things to do for his company and his family. I had the honor to have a drive with him in his Lada through his vineyards and he showed me how meticulous they are cared for. He is a hard worker and together with his family he has built the company to its actual size. In 1993 he released the first bottles of Malvazija and slowly, after the year 2000, the market recognized the quality. Today his Malvasias are considered benchmark and examplary for the high quality of Istria’s Malvasia. And his wine ‘Gran Malvasia‘ to me is one of the great white wines of the entire North Adriatic. ‘It is our duty to leave to our children the same land that we have been left with. We work this land with all our heart and soul. And on this path we want to leave our mark, with the local indigenous varieties, Istrian Malvasia and Teran‘ says Moreno.
From the beginning Coronica was assisted by the Italian oenologist Aldo Venco who is another factor for the success of the company. Aldo believed in the potential of Teran and was convinced that the wine is capable of providing outstanding characteristics comparable to wines such as Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo.

Both photos above: vertical tasting of older vintages of Coronica Gran Teran

Coronica Gran Teran
Teran is a local variety, also found in Slovenia and Italy but there is confusion. It is called Teran or Terrano in Slovenia and on the Karst but Teran from Istria is identical to Refošk from Slovenia. In Istria, both varieties Teran and Refosco/Refošk are allowed but Refošk from Croatian Istria is identical to Refosco dal Peduncolo rosso from Italy. DNA has shown that Teran is closely related to other Refoscos but not identical. It’s origin is unclear but I consider it a typical variety for the North Adriatic region where it grows in Italy, Slovenia and Croatia. It is one of the most tannin-rich grapes of the region. The acidity is unusual high for a red wine and the color is that strong that it will never disappear when it has touched textiles. Because of this acidity, it is recommended to let the wine age: this is essential. When the wine is young it shows aggressive acidity and tannins.

Great wine needs time: this is a rule that every winelover knows and many of the greatest wines in the world (Bordeaux, Barolo, Brunello, Taurasi) have had several years of aging before going to the market. This should be the right approach for Teran too. Coronica has understood this rule more than any other winemaker. He has made a wonderful, brilliant wine that can age wonderfully. His Gran Teran is made of 100% Teran grapes, and only produced in years when the grapes are of the highest quality. The result is a rich, well-balanced wine with good ageing potential. On the nose you’ll find aromas of red cherries, jam, plums, prunes, and a hint of spices, while on the palate you’ll also find some other darker fruits like blackberries, minerality, freshness, and in some vintages a hint of tobacco appears. The firm structure and well-rounded tannins are matched by fresh acidity giving the elegance to the wine. The wine has an exceptional balance.
Vinification takes place after careful grape sorting and the wine matures barrels of various sizes. Only after several years of maturation the wine is released: and this is important. This wine needs aging in order to give this sumptuous, refined character.

It is a pity that so few producers presents this style, as many use to offer the wine in a young stage. This is a wrong sales politics, but unfortunately it exists. Therefore it is important that a great producer like Coronica shows the way. The vertical tasting of Gran Teran in his winery proved the fantastic quality of this wine – and also the great hospitality of the Coronica family. At the event some professionals of the wine industry were present from Canada, European countries and Croatia. We had the possibility to taste a series of recent vintage vintages of his Gran Teran, ending with a spectacular 1997. And the proof was there: Teran has shown its splendour and it was clear that the wine ages fantastically. ‘Teran is truly unique and has the potential to succeed in the international market. Istria has a unique variety that is a specialty of this region, and Moreno Coronica does a really great thing with this,” said Paula Bosch, Germany’s well-known sommelier from München.

photo: Moreno Coronica and his family

Conclusion:
The old vintages offered a great impression of what the wine is capable. I really enjoyed the vintage 2011. But 2007 was even more brilliant. It showed how this wine benefits of staying some years in the bottle. The 2007 was soft, easy drinkable, with a lot of structure and still very fresh and balanced. Also the other vintages were great. It is remarkable that the 2000 was only a little paler than the recent vintages. In fact the style difference started with the vintage 2007: both the 2007, 2008 and 2009 were very intense and showed world class wines. Teran is able to offer great elegance and intensity without losing its character.
In short: Coronica Gran Teran is a unique wine. It is one of those wines that will convince after 10 or 20 years or later. I am sure that this wine will develop into a collectors item that winelovers worldwide are looking for. It has all the characteristics. It should be on the list of collectors´wines in magazines such as Decanter and wine searcher!

Gastronomy potential
The tasting was rounded off by a 5-course lunch paired with the wines of the Coronica winery. Each course was prepared by 5 excellent local renowned restaurants and taverns: Restaurant San Rocco, Restaurant Badi, Restaurant Morgan, Konoba Nono and Konoba Bušćina. It shows the gastronomic potential of Teran.

Many thanks to Moreno Coronica and his family.

Photo: Aldo Venco, Coronica’s enologue speaking

Photo: Coronica’s olive oil, home production near Umag, Istria (HR)

Photo: Winery Coronica, near Umag in Istria (HR)
Photos below: some wonderful dishes at the vertical tasting of Gran Teran at Coronica winery: