‘Why making a wine – there is already too much wine in the world?’ This question is often asked to me after people heard about me producing a wine. This is why:
Wine in most cases is a blend of several grapes. Also many great names and there is a reason for it. Bordeaux for example: producers in Médoc or Graves decided to blend their Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot to smooth the often too harsh and sometimes (esp in the past) unripe tannins of Cabernet and added some Petit Verdot (often not more than 4%) for the colour and some Cabernet Franc for more complexity. Other blended wines are: Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Douro, Port, Chianti, most red wines from Languedoc and Rhone and also many Champagnes (though not all). All are great names and these blending traditions are ages old because producers wanted to be sure that the wine is always ok.

Another argument for blending in the past was that sometimes one grape has matured well, and another one not completely with some unripe tannins as a result: the blended wine became more smooth and easy drinkable. In Austria for example the famous ‘gemischter Satz‘ is an example of such old tradition which is still surviving: all different grapes of the vineyard – often more than ten – are harvested and fermented alltogether. In the past this was common practice in probably most vineyards in Europe because the grapes were harvested together and the fact that some grapes might be unripe was taken for granted.
If wines are blended with care they can become an excellent matrimony of taste: some of the best wines on the planet are blends which are produced with great care and have been studied well: one grape can provide structure, tannins, density of flavours (for ex.Cabernet Sauvignon), another grape can provide acidity, nice colour and some refined aromas (like Barbera) and if the different characters are complementary than the wine can become a fantastic, complex of taste, flavours and unique expressions.

Often such blended wines need a longer maturation period and that may be the reason that in some wine countries blended wines are rare, like in Italy or in Germany. Probably because local markets are used to drink wine in a younger stage and a single-varietal is often more rapidly ready for drinking and also shows easily the character of that grape. To me this is ok but the potential of blending wines should not become forgotten.

Another aspect of the story is that some wines in fact are blends, but not indicated as such: this is a great part of all wines with a single-variety on the label: often they are allowed by law to contain up to 15% of other grapes (like Barbera d’Asti DOCG). Another example: Cabernet wines from Chili, California, South-Africa etc contains a percentage of Merlot or other grapes, it even can go up to 30% and this is accepted by law. And viceversa Merlot often contains a bit of Cabernet. I do not agree with this practice because I consider that giving the right information to consumers is of the highest importance. Why should consumers be mislead with the idea that they like a wine which in fact is a blend thinking it is a mono-varietal wine? Consumers should be treated correctly and there should be no shame of putting the 15, 20 or 30 percent of some grape on the label. If we take into account all mono-varietal wines, which in fact are blends, most wines on this planet are blends and only a tiny percentage are not blends. (The fact that in some cases wines have been enriched with other grapes, not allowed by law, is yet another matter..)
In countries like Italy (or Germany) a blended wine can be a great wine if studied well: in Piemonte some of the greatest wines are blends (some wines from Gaja are blends) but the attention is still going to the greatest wine of all: Barolo. Barolo (together with Barbaresco) to me is the greatest wine of the planet, a rare combination of a great grape, Nebbiolo, and a habitat which offers such special conditions: Barolo’s vineyards.

But in Italy most producers traditionally opt for single-varietal wines – since replanting the vineyards after Phylloxera (before that there was much ‘gemischter Satz’, also in Piemonte). And in Piemonte there is such great potential for making blends: Piemonte offers a wide range of indigenous grapes of high potential and blending can create great wines, also in less known wine regions. Piemonte is one of the most intreaging wine territories with a climate moderated by the Alps, light sea influence and medium-strong winters. This, in combination with often calcareous soils with some clay-sandy topsoil creates the condition for fine wines with such refined flavours. That is the statement I want to make: I want to show that Piemonte can be one of the most interesting wine territories worldwide for blended wines from its own indigenous grapes.

That is why I have created this wine: a blend of 70% Barbera, 26% Nebbiolo (from Barbaresco vineyards) and 4% Merlot: produced by Az.Agr. Bera in Neviglie (I am not the producer, I am the creator of the concept). I am very grateful to Valter Bera and his family to have produced this wine: officially it is their wine and registered as such – the wine carries my name because the concept is mine. Bera is a very traditional Piemontese winemaking family, they work their vineyards with great care and have great winemaking skills which is why I am sure that this project is in good hands.

The wine is quite intense but maintains its freshness due to Barbera’s acidity. The base wine Nebbiolo is already a great wine ( I tasted it and was enthusiast!) and offers fine structure, body, elegant fruit and refined flavours to the wine. The 4% Merlot offers some smoothness and especially in the first years dominates the aroma a bit. The wine is ready for drinking now, but will improve with maturing some years and will become more intense, complex with still good freshness but intense fruit and long aftertaste, a great wine: that has been my intention from the beginning.

Vintage 2015 will be different because I want to introduce Freisa in the blend, very probably it will be a blend of 50% Barbera, 30% Nebbiolo and 20% Freisa. Freisa is a undervalued grape in Piemonte but can give great potential to a blend: it is my objective to show this. First tastings of samples showed a lot of potential of this new wine!

Another wine, a white from another wine region is in preparation now: follow me!

Paul Balke

THE WINE IS AVAILABLE NOW: FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT ME AT: paulbalke@hotmail.com

Fruška Gora is a long-running hill range, in Srem district, west of Belgrade, partly in Serbia and partly in Croatia. It’s name is originating from Frankish period in 9^th century, when the Germans called it ‘Frankenwald’. Srem was Sirmium, the regional capital in Roman times and it is still an important administrative union, and in Serbia part of Vojvodina. More than a million years ago central Europe was covered by the Pannonian sea and Fruška Gora was an island, fossils show ancient marine life. The area has distinct beauty and knows not only vineyards but other types of agriculture as well and a beautiful national park. It is wonderful touring through Fruška Gora, enjoying it’s quiet, rustic landscape and rural areas. All this is not yet discovered by international public but may be considered an interesting destination for wine enthousiasts. Vineyards in Serbian part actually cover some 1.800 hectares. The region is fast developing now, with many new wineries producing interesting wines.

History

Grape pits found in Ilok from the first century AD indicate old history but Roman sources tell of earlier viticulture by Dacians and Celts. Roman Emperor Probus stimulated the growth of viticulture in Sirmium. Later during Middle Age Orthodox and Catholic monasteries intensified the wine production. Hungarian was the common language at the time. During Ottoman occupation (1526 till 1688) viticulture was officially forbidden but persisted because the ‘Osmanli’ raised taxes on wine, ‘bedeli hamir‘ and muslims owned many vineyards too. When Vojvodina became part of Hungary and later of the Austro-Hungarian empire, viticulture continued. Wine pictures of 100 years ago show peasants selling their wine in German language. During Maria Teresa (starting 1745), big parts of Fruška Gora were given to an Italian noble family from Rome: Odescalchi. Probably these princes introduced some Italian and French varieties although in that period Kadarka was considered the best grape. Later events (Phylloxera, first and second word war) prevented development of the area and after 1945 socialism came which introduced big cooperative cellars. After 1997 Serbia and Croatie became separated states and the territory was divided.

Climate

Climate is continental with hot, dry summers and cold winters. It can well be compared with that of wine regions Balaton lake (Hungary), Neusiedlersee (Austria) and Sopron (Hungary) – all of them not far away. It is said that the Danube reflect some sunshine at the vineyards and create a special micro-climate. Because of that effect the northern part of Fruška Gora used to be called ‘vinski Srem’ (wine), the southern part ‘svinski srem’ (relating to the wild boars in the woods).

Soil

Fruška Gora originated by tectonical movements millions of years ago when the area was covered by the Pannonian sea. Some rocky materials and minerals can be found in the soils in many places, especially at higher levels as well as fossils. The topsoil is formed by layers of loess of ca 2 meters or sometimes a mix of loess, sand and clay in various combinations. The types of loess may vary from west near Ilok to east of Sremski Karlovci and scientific research of soils and their qualities for the different grape varieties is still going on. Below this loess topsoil we find layers of limestone. As loess topsoil is quite fertile, therefore the best situation for Fruška Gora is when the vine plants grow older and their roots are going deeper and are fed by the poorer, chalky limestone: therefore it can be expected that the best wines will be made from vineyards with older vines.

Grape varieties

Welschriesling and Frankovka can be considered autoctonous. Welschriesling is known in Serbia as Italijanzki Rizzling or Grašac and in Croatia as Graševina: a lot of confusion and therefore a general name change might be a better solution for all. Frankovka is probably Fruška Gora’s most original red variety although Kadarka was planted in the past as well. Both are well-known in the Pannonian area (with Hungary, Austria and Slovenia). In Croatian part of Fruška Gora they are most common, but in the Serbian part many producers prefer international varieties like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Shiraz. Other varieties are Traminac (Traminer) and Probus (a crossing of Cabernet Sauvignon x Kadarka). And there are rare varieties like Seduša, Neoplanta (a crossing of Traminer x Smederevka), Zupljanka, Sila and Slankamenka. Also (Rhine) Riesling is present and south-Serbian grapes like Tamjanika, Prokupac and Vranac. In modern viticulture the clonal selection is very important and it is my impression that in some locations (especially in Serbia) selection of the right clones for the vineyard positions has to be researched yet.

There are differences in wine styles and varieties used, but that is mostly due to the fact that Serbia and Croatia have different history and different economic situations. The same counts for Austria and Hungary, where most of these grapes are grown too: market requirements can be different.

The western part of Fruška Gora is partly in Croatia: about that part my next article in 10 days.

WINERIES (see also: http://vinavojvodine.com/vinari_fg2.php)

• Vinarija Acumincum in Slankamen: small but very interesting, quite good Shiraz
• Veritas winery in Sremski Karlovci: interesting, new winery. They produce an elegant Sauvignon blanc and an excellent red blend Momentum
• VINUM in Sremski Karlovci: reliable quality Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay
• Kis: a traditional winery in Sremski Karlovci, making good Grasevina, Chardonnay and Riesling
• Patriarski dobra: winery owned by the orthodox church with cellars in the centre of Sremski Karlovi, always open for public: they make a nice blend of Graševina and Zupljanka and an interesting Merlot-Gamay-Pinot Noir blend
• Kovacevic winery in Irig: leading winery in Serbian part of Fruška Gora, all wines are good and reliable. Outstanding Riesling with aging potential, good Chardonnay, red blend Aurelius and also excellent sparkling. The winery also possesses a fine restaurant.
• Mackov Podrum in Irig: traditional winery, they make interesting Portugiezer.
• Winery Hopovo in Irig
• Chichateau vinarija in Šišatovac: interesting winery of Djordje Stojisic, one of the few in Serbia who dares to work without prepared yeast. Nice Sauvignon Blank with rich flavors and a most interesting Chardonnay Fabula Mala 2015 with rich earthy perfume and complex flavors of fresh tropical fruit, fatty, some sweet fruit, most intense wine. and a great red blend of Merlot-Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon: wonderful subtle fruit, light spicyness well integrated oak, length.
• Erdevik vinarija in Erdevik, a new upcoming winery, investing much in this new brand. The cellars in Erdevik are state-of-the-art and they have a stylish wine house. Oak aged Chardonnay with some subtle flavours. The red blend Trianon of Merlot-Syrah-Cabernet is quite good.
• Deuric winery, new upcoming winery, state-of-the-art cellars. Vineyards on the warm south side of Fruška Gora. The produce some interesting whites and soon some new vineyards will be in production. Interesting is also the curious but well-made blend of Pinot Noir-Merlot.
• Sijacki podrum in Banostor: winemaker Ivana Sijacki produces a selection of different wines, mostly young drinkable. Next to Chardonnay and Riesling there is also Neoplanta. Interesting is their Seduša – they are the only producer of this variety.
  Banostor
• Belo Brdo in Banostor, big, new winery in Banostor, investing much in strong, oak aged red wines. Some impressive wines to find, especially their Alma Mons 2013.
• Quetwine in Banostor, old cooperative cellar from Banostor, turned into private, reliable quality.
• Interesting new winery is the project of Bojan Baša who is experimenting with orange wines, inspired by many wineries from Collio in Italy.
• Bermet is a historical wine only produced in Sremski Karlovci where each cellar has its own variant. It is a sweet wine blended with herbs and the receipt is different at each cellar

Many people have contributed to this article. Many thanks to Kika Stanojlovic, Milos Kalapis. Special thanks to Kovacevic winery for their hospitality and to Jovana Stojkovic. Many thanks to all wineries for their hospitality.

The richness of indigenous grapes makes Sardinia´s viticulture highly interesting and this in combination with the original gastronomy makes Sardinia a wonderful destination. It is still not clear whether the many rare varieties have been introduced or were cloned with local varieties or are purely local. It is sure that these rare wines are precious jewels and they will make each discovery tour to Sardinia the more interesting. In short: an extra argument to visit Sardinia.

An important problem of rare varieties is that they are scarse: other varieties are commercially more ´safe´ and these wines almost never make it to become a strong brand. For the interested winelover these wines represent great value, but some efforts are needed to find these wines.

CARIGNANO DEL SULCIS DOC

This wine is a great discovery for each winelover. I tasted a small selection and directly becomes clear that this wine is one of those magical treasures of Italian viticulture. The variety is Carignano with sometimes a small amount of other grapes. It offers aromas with cinnamon and clove and a wealth of fruit, plums, very abundant subtle fruit, hints of herbs and all with a little inch of minerality and such length! The wine is intense, fresh, and the present tannins do not disturb. These wines are among my most prefered Italian reds. And the good news is: most of them are still very affordable. And this wonderful wine comes from what is probably Europe’s largest concentration of ungrafted pre-Phylloxera vines on the sands of Sulcis. Carignano del Sulcis DOC is produced only in southwest Sardinia and on two local islands, San Pietro and Sant’Antioco. Where Carignan in France is mostly a grape used for blends and is considered of modest importance, here, in the warm sunny fields of Sardinia’s southwest this grape offers wines with great potential.

OTHER RARE WINES

The majority of Sardinian vineyards lie on the western side of the island, which is also where its most location-specific DOCs are found. North of Sulcis we find the DOCs Vernaccia di Oristano, Malvasia di Bosa and Alghero. Also a big part of the important Cagliari DOC is produced in this part of the island.

Vernaccia di Oristano DOC is a rare DOC produced around the town of Oristano. Also this wine is such a wonderful treasure. The wine is special with its unique perfumes of dried almonds, honey and caramel, but in a fresh and unique style. This region is much Spanish influenced or maybe Catalan – inhabitants of Alghero speak an old Catalan dialect. The Vernaccia is often used in local gastronomy. It is not completely clear how the Vernaccia grape arrived here: it might have been the Spanish who dominated her several centuries, but there is also the option of Phoenicians or Carthagenians who arrived at this coast in the 8th century BC. The wine is produced in barrels in which yeast flora is formed on its surface: ‘flor‘. After producing the wine can be aged in a solera system which is known of Jerez. The flor appears during fermentation in the same way as is known from Sherry. All this results in extremely rich wines with very rich, complex perfumes with hints of dried almonds, caramel and tropical fruit, and – with the dry version – wines that remind one of dry Sherry, with its rich complex taste with hints of dried almonds, caramel, butter, nuts, minerals, dried fruit and a very long finish. Other than Sherry Vernaccia di Oristano is never fortified.

Sardinia always had a reputation for Malaria: it was hot, and the lagunes at the coast were ideal for the Malaria fly. But the shepherds who wandered around the lagunes near Oristano were almost immune for Malaria, a most curious feat. A relation with Vernaccia was always thought and – indeed! – research has shown that hexanol and diacetyl compounds in the perfume of the Vernaccia may be responsible for this. The anopheles fly, responsible for Malaria is normally attracted to humans because human respiration contains carbondioxide but the hexanol and diacetyl compounds neutralize it.

Sardegna Mandolisai DOC is a rare but very interesting wine, from the region of Atzara and Meana. The vineyards are situated high, at the western edge of the Gennargentu massif and produced from 5 or more different varieties. It is a blend of Cannonau, Muristellu, Monica, Nuragus and other local grapes like Nasco or Giro.

Malvasia di Bosa DOC can be dry or sweet. Malvasia is found everywhere in the Mediterranean but it is unclear if all grapes with the same name are the same variety and how they are eventually related. The sweet version is rich with aromas of honey and camomilla and in the taste some hints of almonds and a good acidity. There is also a version which is produced with ‘flor’ during fermentation (like Sherry) and this creates those particular aromas of the wine.

Alghero DOC is produced from Torbato, a grape originating from Spain. It is a fresh pale-straw white with hints of white flowers and minerals. The wine is rare. The sparkling version can be quite good and the still versions can be lighter or more full-bodied style. It used to be produced by Sella & Mosca but now also other producers are starting.

RARE, INDIGENOUS GRAPES:

The long postwar period of neglect has seen a decline of attention to the minor varieties. There has not been much research on them and the search for better clones is difficult, which does not help to increase the quality. Nevertheless during my visit I tasted some most fascinating wines.

• Alvarega is almost unknown but an association is dedicated to preserve it. It tastes dry and fresh, with some spicyness, minerals and a hint of tropical fruit, a wine with distinct character.
• Arvisionadu is very rare, in fact it is almost never bottled. I tasted a rather light, dry version produced by an association dedicated to preserve this grape.
• Barbera from Sardinia (Barbera Sarda) is an indigenous variety from Sardinia, not related to other Italian Barberas.
• Bovaleddu is a variant of the Bovale, but smalles and mostly used as table grape.
• Bovale (also called uva di Spagna) is a difficult grape for the producer but when the producer gets it well this can be a highly interesting wine, especially it’s high acidity is notable, but the wine offers deep and expressive fruit notes as well and needs some aging.
• Cagnulari (identical to Graciano from Rioja, Spain) is produced in small quantities in the area between Sassari and Alghero. It can give highly interesting and particular wines with sometimes a quite high acidity and sometimes dominated by mineral notes. It is always produced as Isola dei Nuraghi IGT.
• Granazza, a very rare white grape.
• The variety Monica is mostly planted in the south, it gives light aromatic red wines, not full-bodied and with some subtle fruit and spices. It is mostly present as Monica di Cagliari or Monica di Sardegna.
• Red variety Muristella is maybe related to Mourvedre but that is unclear.
• Semi-aromatic Nasco is thought to be present since Roman times and produces an elegant and medium-bodied white with elegant, honey perfumes and some intense, mature flavours. It is not related to Piemonte’s Nascetta.
• Nepente is a variety of Cannonau and is only found near Oliena.
• The name of the variety Nuragus is of historical importance because it is thought that the Phoenicians have brought the grape to the island. There are some nice crispy white wines.
• Semidano is a very delicate white wine with hints of white flowers and hay, perfectly to combine with local aged pecorino cheese. It is difficult to produce and also the planting is quite difficult because the usual combination with selected rootstocks did not work. There is ca 30 ha planted in total, near Mogoro we find only 3 ha but here it has been entitled to carry its own recognition as subzone: Semidano di Mogoro because the cellar of Mogoro saved the grape from extinction. It possesses a very thin skin and is difficult to age but very suited for the production of sparkling and passito wines.

CARIGNANO DEL SULCIS DOC:

• Vigne Bentesali 2014: some herbal aromas and a full-bodied wine with hints of herbs, dark fruit, minerals, salt, and a very long finish.
• Gavino 2013: concentrated style, some strong tannins, some spicyness, good freshness, needs time but will develop very well.
• Is Arenas 2011: some stuffed fruit perfumes, wonderful fruit, mature, some spicyness, lenght.
• Santadi (presented as Valli di Porto Pino IGT) Shardana 2010 (Carignano plus some Syrah): wonderful blackberry perfume, character, strong tannins, some sweet notes, freshness, lenght
• Esu Carbonia (presented as Isola dei Nuraghi IGT) 2014: Dark and herbal aromas, in the taste some dark fruit dominates, but tannins are present which give the wine some body.

VARIOUS WINES

• Cantina di Mogoro, Semidano di Mogoro Superiore DOC Puisteris 2012: beautiful perfumes, tropical, ananas, body, length
• Cantina Pili, Nuragus di Cagliari DOC 2014: Some dried fruit aromas and a subtle but quite powerful taste with a mix of fruit, dried fruit and mandles.
• Dolianova, Falconara 2010 (grapes Cannonau, Montepulciano and Carignano): Beautiful red fruit in the nose, with hints of some dried plums, a moutfilling taste of fresh fruit with sensations of cherry and mandles.
• Argiolas, Turriga IGT 2010: A blend of 4 grapes (Cannonau, Carignano, Malvasia nera and Bovale sardo), a full-bodied red with some subtle fruit, plums, freshness, some minerality, tannins present but balanced and a long finish. One of Sardinia’s best reds.
• Deperu Holler, Familia, a blend of Muristella and Cannonau: interesting
• Fradiles, Sardegna Mandrolisai DOC rosso Istentu 2011 (made of Cannonau, Monica and Bovale Sardu and other local grapes): a perfume with notes of stuffed fruit and some freshness and a deep, long finish with good tannins and some laurel.
• Tenute Olianas, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT 2014 (blend of Bovale, Carignano and Cannonau): intense aromas with dark fruit and some vanilla, strong wine with some minerality, spicy but needs time.
• Mesa, Valli di Porto Pino IGT Malombra 2012 (blend Carignano en Syrah): wonderful aromas with little sweet, ample fruit, blackberries, herbs, freshness, and intense tannins, great length, needs some aging.
• Melis, Sardegna Terralba Bovale DOC 2013 Dominariu: fresh, light perfumes, intense and strong tannins, compact fruit, acidity, length – a wine with character
• Su Entu, Marmilla IGT Bovale 2014: rich ample bouquet, freshness and a rich, complex taste with hints of apple, berries, herbs, cassis and length
• Fradiles, Sardegna Mandrolisai DOC Superiore Istentu 2014 (Bovale, Cannonau, Monica and other grapes): very rich wine with ample fruit, blackberries, laurel, good acidity and length
• Enrico Melis, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT Cagnulari 2015: intense, strong perfume with various fruits and cassis, intense taste with some cassis and acidity and great length
• Siddura, Isola dei Nuraghi Cagnulari 2014: intens, and rather complex aromas, fine fruit, cherries, blackberries and some acidity, good length
• Chessa, Isola dei Nurahi Cagnulari 2014: wonderful wine with intense aromas and complex flavours of blackberries, some spicyness, tannins and acidity and length
• Poderi Parpinello, Isola dei Nuraghi Cagnulari 2013: intense strong wine, beautiful fruit, cherry, vanilla, length, but oak a bit dominating maybe
• Cantina di Mogoro, Sardegna Terralba DOC Bovale riserva 2012: wonderful wine, with spicy aromas and body, needs some time
• Un Mare di Vino, Colli dei Limbara rosso IGT 2013 Rossosmeralda: intense red fruit aromas, complex wine, intense, length, much tannins and spicyness (blend of Carignano, Cabernet, Merlot, Muristellu, Sangiovese)
• Davide Orro, Vernaccia di Oristano DOC 2009: strong yellow colour, perfumes of dried almond, caramel, and most intense taste of dried fruit, minerals, honey, caramel, a most particular wine!

Also worth noting:

• Cantina del Vermentino, Colli di Limbara IGT 2009 (blend of various indigenous grapes and Cabernet Sauvignon): very intense, strong wine, complex, hints of blackberries, spicyness, length
• Tenuta Asinara, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT rosso (blend of Cab.Sauvignon, Cab.Franc, Merlot and Cannonnau, made in a sweet style – 18,5%): rich perfumes of roses, honey, vanilla, and an intense, sweet but also fresh taste with hints of caramel, honey, sirup.

Many thanks to Mario Bonamici for organizing the excellent visits and tastings.

Sardinia is one of Italy´s largest regions, but for long it´s image was that of a desolate island and shepherd´s paradise and not much more… And, yes, there are still shepherds living a quiet life with their sheep.. a contrast to the tiny jetset paradise with chicque restaurants at the Smeralda coast. But most of Sardinia is still a quiet region with local villages, local food is often authentic and cheap. The interior is partly filled with rugged mountains and the long, idyllic coastline is not yet spoiled by tourism. Scattered vineyards produce an abundant richness of wine styles. Sardinia is a land full of archaic wine traditions. But who knows about this richness? It is the fate of the Sardinians to be the last of Italy´s regions to be visited and it remains out of sight for many winelovers. It is isolated, one has to make more efforts to arrive here. And the distance to the mainland, increasing the costs of logistics, is another obstacle for Sardinia´s producers. But Sardinia offers fascinating and mind-blowing wines, it merits to be considered as one of Italy´s most unique wine regions. And what´s more: many of those incredible wines are still affordable. Which wine region can compete with that?

On some 25.000 hectares a large number of 41.000 producers are working, therefore the cooperative cellars have an important role. A total of 116 grape varieties have been counted, five of which are widely planted. There are some international varieties too but it is the richness of indigenous grapes which makes it worth to go for a wine-discovery tour.

Sardinia is huge. A drive from Cagliari, the capital, to Nuoro in the central mountains took us 2 hours. The drive to Monti the next day took one more hour and we are still not completely in the North. There are four different dialects spoken and in Alghero they speak some old Catalan. Sardinia´s highest peak, Gennargentu, is still snow-covered at the the beginning of April. The climate is mediterranean, but rain is common in winter and spring. We do not see much forests apart from the mountain areas, because in the 19^th century much wood from Sardinia was used for Italy´s railways.

It is remarkable to discover that Sardinia doesn´t know earthquakes, different from Italy´s mainland: it has to do with it’s geology: a big part of the island is granite rock, especially the north. Middle and South are a mix of some granite, clay and limestone soils and in far southwest rare, free-draining sands are found in Sulcis area. Some other areas boast mineral-rich clays or gravels. It is said there is a geological relation of Sardinia with the Alps.

Another interesting aspect of Sardinia´s wine sector is history: where most scientists consider the Caucasus or Middle East as the cradle of viticulture, until now some of the oldest traces of viticulture ever have been found on Sardinia. Being isolated in our times, it was a central place in the trade routes of the old Mediterranean times. Historical findings near Oristano indicate viticulture between 2.000 and 1.000 BC, during the Bronze Age, the period of the Nuraghi civilisation. And near Cagliari, in Monastir, old caves have been found of the 9^th century BC where traces of acid tartrates could be traced back to 900 BC. It is clear that the civilisation of the Nuragi worked with different grape types and was very active with viticulture.

After 1945 cooperatives started to dominate which resulted in high yielding clones, low winemaking standards and a huge number of uninteresting wines but later many vineyards were abandoned. Only the last 20 years the Italian wine renaissance reached Sardinia too and a number of little wineries are creating most interesting wines. Names like Argiolas, Alberto Loi, Ragnedda, Sedilesu, changed winemaking practices, concentrating on lower yields, modern cellar techniques in combination with the wealth of indigenous grapes: the result was a number of wines which created international interest. Maybe Sardinia is lacking a great personality – like Gaja or Gravner – who creates and stimulates new developments, but nevertheless the new breed of wineries and the young guys who are returning to the countryside is very promising.

REGIONS OF SARDINIA

There are several different wine regions to distinguish. Gallura in the north produces a good number of reliable Vermentino wines. Secret of the area is the high density of granite in the soil with sometimes a top-layer of sand and gravel. Frequent wind creates cooler conditions. All this was reason for Sardinia´s only DOCG: Vermentino di Gallura. On the other end of the island one finds another special area: Sulcis, it is situated at the west side of a mountain range. It´s soils are mostly sandy, especially towards the coast: this is the region of Carignano del Sulcis DOC, one of Sardinia´s most interesting wines. Carignano is related to French Carignan, gives here such excellent red wines, all of them are particular, boasting a lot of fresh fruit, length and subtle tones with some minerality. These wines offer a full—fruity style but not heavy and easy drinkable. Another particular aspect is that the sandy soils allow the production of ungrafted vines, which is quite particular as most of all European and American vineyards had to be grafted on American rootstocks after the Phylloxera disease: around Porto S.Antioco and Porto Pino at least 400 ha of ungraftedvines are counted – which is unique.

Another interesting area is Mamoiada, by many considered the best region for Cannonau. It is situated higher in the mountains at the northern edge of the Gennargentu massif at heights between 500 and 900 m and the height helps to preserve freshness in the wines. The IGT of this area is Barbagia. The town of Nuoro was also called Athens of Sardegna because of the intense artistic life with musicians, sculptors and poets.

VERMENTINO, ONE OF ITALY´S MOST ELEGANT WHITES

Vermentino is one of my prefered whites from Italy, it possesses elegance, some minerality, some hints of straw, tropical fruit, ananas, mint, but always in an elegant way. Always an easy drinkable wine but so enjoyable! Sardinia´s most important white is known in two versions: Vermentino di Sardegna DOC and Vermentino di Gallura, Sardinia´s only DOCG. Vermentino di Sardegna is a bit suffering of image because the Gallura version takes much credits but I tasted several excellent wines of Vermentino di Sardegna DOC. Considering the big distances it is logical that the wines from different zones are different. But, anyway, many Vermentino from Sardinia knows this typical bright and refreshing acidity, with hints of green apple, citrus fruit, and ripe pear.

The Vermentino di Gallura DOCG shows the granite of its terroir in the style: there is a remarkable minerality and the wines have personality. It offers some dried straw perfumes together with hints of mint, tropical fruit in a very elegant way. Aging on wood is done, but in my opinion the wine does not need it: it´s spontaneous fruit, this elegant mix of mint, straw, tropical fruit makes the wine very attractive.

CANNONAU (on photo)

It is often said that Cannonau is identical to Grenache but research has proven that there are genetical differences: DNA of Cannonau and Grenache is 82% identical so there must have been some modification during the century-long stay of the grape at the island. Findings of pits of Cannonau from 1.200 BC has proved that the wine was present for ages in Sardinia´s vineyards – therefore the fact that the grape might have been brought here from Spain is now questioned, it migh be original from Sardinia. Cannonau is Sardinia´s most common red and can be quite interesting if the producer works with attention. Some of the best Cannonau wines offer distinct fruit, freshness in the perfume and intense, but also delicate tannins and a long finish. There is also the association Strada del Vino Cannonau with 22 producers mostly from the central area around Nuoro.

Next week more about Sardinia’s authentic varieties.

WINES TASTED:

VERMENTINO:

• Siddura, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore 2014: complex aromas, some toast and mint, intense long taste with some minerality and butter
• Tenuta Aini, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore 2014: wonderful elegant wine, fresh perfumes, complex style, apple, mint, apricot, a fine minerality and length
• Tani, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Taerra 2015: elegant perfumes, fine tropical fruit, spicy and almost a touch of sweetness
• Cantina di Li Duni, Vermentino di Gallura 2014 Renabianca (produced from ungrafted wines): nice fruit, some apricot in the nose, characterful taste with some butter and tropical fruit
• Cantina Li Seddi, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore 2015: intense and complex perfumes, elegant wine and in the long finish sensations of different tropical fruits
• Cantina di Gallura, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Canayli (vendemmia tardiva): nice perfume with a hint of tropical, elegant lighter style with fine minerals, dry fruit, length
• Tenute Delogu, Vermentino di Sardegna Ide 2014, nice elegant perfume, intense style with some tropical fruit, mint, apricot and length
• Cantine Mesa, Vermentino di Sardegna 2014: beautiful rich aroma with some mint, sage and intense taste with great freshness and length
• Masone Mannu, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Petrizza 2015: elegant fine perfumes, elegant pleasant style, with hints of ananas, mint
• Masone Mannu, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Costarenas 2015: most intense perfume with some apricots and almost sweet fruit, very characterful wine, stylish, mineral, relatively full-bodied, intense and fine fruit, hints of apricot, mint
• un Mare di Vino, Vermentino di Gallura Terra e Mare 2014: interesting complex perfumes, elegant style with hints of minerality, mint, sage
• Piero Mancini, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore 2015: fine, elegant perfume, refined taste with some hints of dried fruit, sage, minerals
• Cantina del Vermentino, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore 2014: intense aromas with tropical fruit, body and complex taste with hints of sage, ananas, butter
• Depperu, Colli delle Limbari Vermentino IGT Ruinas 2014: refined tropical fruit perfumes, hints of spicyness, ananas, minerality, length
• Other interesting Vermentino wines are produced by these cellars: Tenuta Olianas, Tenute Smeralda, Gabriele Palmas, Tenute Olbios, Masone Mannu, Ledda, Cantina del Vermentino, Un mare di vino, Tenuta Gregu

CANNONAU

• Atha Ruja, Cannonau di Sardegna 2010 Kuentu riserva: wonderful rich aroma, rich wine, good balance, soma acidity, intense red fruit, peppery, beautiful wine
• Giuseppe Sedilesu, Cannonau di Sardegna 2010 Ballu Tundu: in perfume soft fruit, with some hints of cooked and blackberries, very intense tannines, body, but good balance, red fruit, blackberries, some spicyness, length
• G.Sedilesu also produces a version of selected grapes, very intense and long.
• Cantina Castiadas, Cannonau di Sardegna capo Ferrato riserva 2010: some spicyness in perfume and intense fruit, somewhat fatty, intense, length, needs time
• Suelzu, Cannonau di Sardegna 2013: intense aroma with some stuffed fruit, wonderful intensity, blackberries, elegance and length
• Cantina Doglianova, Cannonau di Sardegna riserva Blasio 2011: a little dominant oak, but very intense fruity style, spicy, pepper, good tannins, length
• Other good quality Cannonau di Sardegna of these cellars: Siddura, Cantina Ogliastra, Berritta, Cantina Dorgali, Cantina di Orgosolo, Tenute Bonamici, Cantine Oliena, Tenuta Olianas, Sardinia Wine, Ledda, Cantina Castiadas

In July  there wlll be an international wine festival in Cagliari with a great selection of wines from Sardinia. Follow the news!

Many thanks to Mario Bonamici for his excellent organisation and recommandations.

Three days ago my friend, Paul Truszowski (a wine journalist from Berlin born in Poland), posted on social media about enjoying and partying at this time of the year. 1)   He describes his Polish grandfather who was taken away to Siberia with mother and grandmother by the Russian army and had their Christmas dinner made of some scarse potatoes offered by a poor mother of three children. Scenes that remind me of the struggling of the poor Polish people in the countryside, written in a wonderful novel A European Education by Lithuanian-French author Romain Gary describing the Polish countryside after the German invasion. 2)   At a moment when Champagne and Prosecco bottles are uncorked worldwide, this remark of Truszowski makes one humble, as he says we start to realize how rich we are that we can do all this.. So: is it ok to party?

Truszkowski says ´it is important to realize that life is a gift´. UK philosopher Roger Scruton, who is known for his defense of European culture, although he is not religious, says the same. These short lines tell some essence of recent European history: people fleeing from one country to the other, be it Germans, Russians, Polish people, or others. During the years 1920-1940 some 40 million people had to flee from their home in Europe (estimations by historians as exact data difficult to get). European union was constructed exactly to avoid in the future such situations. Are we learning from it?

I think there is another level. History of the Byzantine empire shows how an interesting and developed culture managed to survive more than 1.100 years following the croll of the Roman empire in a period when in Western Europe there was not much civilization yet. It shows how Renaissance would not have been possible if the Byzantine empire would not have been able to continue Roman and Greek culture during more than 1.100 years. But why is there then such a division between West and East Europe? The reasons are profound: since the beginning of the church the leaders did not agree on the definition of the Holy Trinity, the so called ‘filioque‘ discussion which led to a schisma between western and eastern churches. This schisma is one of the main reasons of the separated development of eastern and western Europe (reality is more complex, but it is an important aspect). It is also the reason why a high level of misunderstanding has arisen between both and political developments after 1945 have not been helpful in opening these barriers.

Now, December 2016, Europe is stil divided in many ways, culturally speaking, and with political differences as consequence. And what´s worse even politicians from western and eastern countries often do not really understand each other. But much of those differences in fact are only in the minds of people and most of them are not correct, they are only based on misunderstandings which have grown during a long period of different development. Nothing else.

As Truszkowski´s grandfather was eating his poor Christmas dinner in Siberia they were just sharing some basic life conditions. Now the Russians are ´east´ and Polish are ´west´ but in the past these differences in Europe have so often changed. If we would know each other better than we would recognize that we – Europeans – share the same basis and the same values, because the Byzantine empire and the late western Roman empire shared them: Christianity. It is only a theological interpretation that created the difference. I think it is urgently needed that west and east Europe understand each other better, including Russia, which is part of Europe and shares our values. At this point politicians are often limited because they are not historians or philosophers, and often as not limit themselves to daily economical problems.

But churches do have a longterm responsability and the fact that Europe has been divided because of a theological debate for such a long period of European history creates a special responsability for European churches. Of course there are talks and meetings between church leaders from east and west but are they really interested in opening these barriers? At least in the daily public life I do not see much of it. Sometimes some wise words are heard but it remains at that. There should be a new council between all western and eastern churches dealing with these matters. And if they do not resolve the filioque problem (which is probable) then they should at least release a common statement about shared values in east and west.

Last September I organized a discussion between a member of the European parliament from Romania and a priest from the Netherlands about our view on Europe. And of course there was the call to look beyond the differences and concentrate on common European values. And of course we learned about the many misunderstandings also on political level between western and eastern european countries (also inside the EU). But all that is known. What is much needed now is to cross those boundaries and look beyond, because there is still more that unites us than divides us and it is important to realize this. I still find many misunderstandings between countries and cultures which are based on only misunderstanding. We are not much different, yes there have been differences in development, but we are still living from the same source and it is important to realize that. And in making the europeans aware of this the combined western and eastern churches should play a more active role.

So: is it ok to party today? All wars and disputes have been fought in order to create the freedom and make us able to do it: so: YES!   But at the same moment we should consider that it is thanks to many who are not with us anymore that we are able to do it. And it would be wrong only to party and not consider the gift of live which Truszkowski quoted. And we should realize that all parties and all festivities are part of our shared common culture, east and west. In such a way some poor Siberian potatoes can be better than the best Champagne.

SOURCES:

1) Text of post by Paul Truszowski (my translation):

“ No Post, no image, no Video can picture life, and especially not ´einfangen´ when a family has been pushed until the borders of life during a long period because of historical events, and then suddenly even pushed to the last limit, gathers and suddenly there is nothing. All Problems are only ´firstworldproblems´. And when your grandfather through whom you are existing, tells you of his most wonderful Christmas which happened to be in Siberia where he and his family had been deported by the Russian army and where a poor local family took them with hospitality in their house and offered some of their last potatoes, which was their last luxury. Then one realizes how we are living in luxury and how much our life which we consider our daily life is a wonderful gift. “

2) Éducation Européen, by Romain Gary available in English as A European Education. His real name was Roman Kacew, born in Lithuania, he fled with his mother first to Warsaw for the Russian and later to Nice for the German armies, later to become pilot for the French army and French diplomat. His novel describes the suffering of people in the Polish countryside, trying to survive in severe conditions during the occupation by the German army.

3) Byzantium, the surprising life of a medieval empire, by Judith Herrin, Penguin 2007

Piemonte, once only known for its great red wines, is changing face. A new, but in fact old, territory is receiving increasing international attention for its great white wines. In speaking terms it is called ´Isola dei bianchi’, refering to Gavi and Colli Tortonesi in south-east Piemonte. Regions with much history: Gavi was built 2000 years ago along the Roman pathway Via Postumia, and Libarna was seated at the oldest road from the sea to Italian inland. Romans cultivated vineyards in the surroundings. Both were united in the Obertengo Marchesate, in early Middle Age. In 19^th century Gavi became an important source of white wine for Genoa and this was the basis for the success of Gavi DOCG, one of Italy´s most successful brands with ca 12 million bottles sold. The Colli Tortonesi strangely enough, did not see much development until recently. Strange because the territory is situated midway between Milan and Genoa, two important metropols and important wine markets.

Now that the Colli Tortonesi is developing it creates a new momentum: is this region the new great´white´ concurrent of the Langhe?

Gavi

Gavi DOCG is a wonderful expression of Cortese grapes grown in the light mineral soils of Gavi, on the outskirts of the Apennines. Its fragile perfumes, slight minerality and its elegance make it an attractive wine and a great food wine. Many Genoese villas and mansions amid its wine landscape creates a unique ambience. Gavi town is a gem and has potential to become one of Piemonte’s most visited spots in future (one may hope that traffic through the historical centre will be eliminated. Quite odd in a place with such cultural and historical significance…). Right now Gavi is almost neglected by tourists and the term Gavishire, wishfully used by some, is still very premature. But about the touristic potential of Gavi area there should be no doubt, its particular ambience with Ligurian building style and the facades of many old palaces, showing richness of the past give the town its particular, somewhat melancholic aspect. Some good restaurants offer authentic Piemontese dishes. Best choices: restaurant Cantine del Gavi and osteria Piemontemare. Local dishes include ravioli, which probably was created by local Raviolo family from Gavi. Amaretti from Gavi are a must-try. There is an abundant choice of interesting wine companies to visit, a very imcomplete selection: La Scolca, Broglia, Fontanassa, La Ghibellina, Morgassi Superiore, La Mesma, Il Poggio di Gavi, Marchese Spinola, Villa Sparina, Nicola Bergaglio, Ghio, and many others.

Colli Tortonesi

After the second world war the Colli Tortonesi was territory for cheap whites and reds without quality. But since 1987 when winemaker Walter Massa started to produce Timorasso the area receives more attention. Timorasso is autochtonous in the south-east but was almost forgotten. Its surface has increased from 2 to circa 70 ha and expectations are that this will rise. Timorasso is considered an outstanding white wine, it offers fine and fresh perfumes with some minerality and with age develops into some petrolly perfumes not unlike Riesling. The taste is powerful and offers complex sensations of fruit, minerals, some oil and length. It is never aged on wood even if the body of the taste would suggest so. A wine with aging potential.

The Colli Tortonesi is situated south of the town Tortona – Derthona in Roman times and many winemakers mention ‘Derthona’ on the label for their Timorasso – it might become the name of the DOC. The area also produces excellent Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa, Croatina and Cortese. The area is very picturesque with the long and remote valleys of Grue, Ossona and Curone. The litte Ligurian village San Sebastiano Curone is a gem and hosts a wonderful truffle fair in November. The Colli Tortonesi receive few visitors so for the terminology ‘Derthonashire‘ it is definitively too early now.. Some good restaurants are Corona in San Sebastiano Curone and Malpassutti in Carbonara Scrivia. The protected DOP salame Nobile del Giarolo is among Italy´s most prestigious salamis and in the Apennines in the south the rare Montebore cheese is produced. Wine companies to visit: Vigneti Massa, Mariotto, Cascina Montagnola, Cascina I Carpini, Luigi Boveri.

Libarna 

Libarna is North Italy’s biggest Roman monument and is situated exactly between both territories.. (read: https://paulbalke.com/libarna-and-piemontes-isola-bianca/). This is an excellent meeting point for events dedicated to both wines, we meet two important persons: Francesco Bergaglio, director of Gavi Consorzio and Walter Massa, famous winemaker in the Colli Tortonesi. ´This is a unique opportunity to show these authentic wines to the world, both wine territories are very different but this place is the entrance to Piemonte´, says Francesco Bergaglio, director of Gavi Consorzio. The link Gavi-Derthona, a reality with two very different values and stages of development, (Tortonese at its beginning where Gavi is a consolidated value), has the potential to create a lot interest, says Walter Massa. ´A well-targeted communication can create awareness among consumers and professionals of our importance as white wine region. We can compete with the international wine regions without problems, we have a lot to offer´, says Massa. ´We are the white alternative for Barolo and Barbaresco – you have to try us to know it!´ says Bergaglio.

Who visits the scenic Langhe hills in Piemonte and enjoys a dinner in one of it´s fine restaurants drinking some sips of Barolo or Barbaresco DOCG will not realize that this disctrict was one of Italy´s poorest until 1970. For many centuries Langhe was a rural region where people had a hard existence working in the woods, having some cows and pigs and some agriculture around the house. Now all that has changed, Langhe is famous, part is even protected as UNESCO heritage, but this rapid change took hardly one generation. Bera family is emblematic for this quiet revolution (above pictured: Valter with Umberto and Riccardo). Here in this wonderful corner of the Langhe, dotted with vineyards of Nebbiolo, Moscato and Barbera and so many hazelnut trees their winery is situated just east of Barbaresco. ´When we were young, Valter Bera tells, we were used to meet our friends in the stable between the cows because there it was warm´. It was a cycle of self-sufficiency: everybody produced his domestic wine, meat and corn. The leftovers were sold and in exchange other goods were bought, a rural economy, common in Europe before the industrial revolution. Piemontese prefer calf´s meat and there is a good local market for it: the possession of cows was a live-saver. When there was a bill to pay, some calfs were sold. Most producers in Barolo around 1970 were working in the same way: they cultivated some corn, maiz, potatoes, calfs and vineyards.

Patterns of agriculture changed, concurrents built bigger stables, meat became cheaper and the wine revolution in Italy started: it was convenient to sell the cows and turn the stable into a wine cellar. Most farmers in the Langhe closed their stables in the period between 1970 and 1980. Bera started to bottle his own wine in 1969, as one of the first in Langa. Bera is a typical Piemontese family, with their roots firmly in their own soil. And even if Valter, Umberto and Riccardo, sometimes travel, they remain very attached to their home. Piemontese don´t like travel, they prefer to stay at home and regard the world from their own safe place.

In 1988 Veronelli discovered bottles of Bera Dolcetto in Luciano Pavarotti´s cellars which brought invitations from Pavarotti and Sofia Loren (her son choose Bera´s Moscato for his marriage) and even more international attention. Bera is a modest man and that´s why it is astonishing when he tells with much emotion about his adventures with wine personalities like Giacomo Bologna, an old friend. It was Bologna who convinced him to change his style of Barbera.
There is a saying ´moscatista si nasce, rossista si diventa´ (you are born as Moscato producer, but producer of reds you have to become) but Bera´s wine history started in 1970 in the opposite way with reds produced by Valter´s father: Barbera and Dolcetto. Grapes were sold to the merchants in Alba, apart from a tiny part used to make a domestic wine. In that period a property of 8 hectares was considered big.

The other revolution in Piemonte´s countryside was Moscato: around 1975 big companies started to ask local farmers to plant Moscato: paying 600 lire for a kilo. The price of Moscato is also a good indication of market fluctuations but when the price went down to 550 lire in 1983 many companies went broke. In that period Dolcetto was the moneymaker, not Nebbiolo. In 1976 it was mainly big, industrial, companies selling Asti spumante across the world. The first family companies producing Asti were Giorgio Carnevale and Dogliotti and soon after them also Bera started to produce both versions: Asti Spumante (7-9 % alc.vol.) and the sweeter Moscato d´Asti (ca 5% alc.vol.).

The news is that Bera purchased some hectares in Barbaresco DOCG and now proudly shows his cru´s Basarin and Rabajà. Riccardo tells how this has become an important wine and is sold to many foreign customers. Nebbiolo had been for long in the family: Valter shows a bottle of Nebbiolo d´Alba from 1972: it was still quite drinkable.

Valter Bera always had important institutional roles in the consorzios of Asti and Barolo and was long time president of the Enoteca Regionale di Mango and he was the first president of the Association of Mayors of the Communes producing Moscato (the 52 communes in Piemonte produce Asti DOCG) but now he is 100% dedicated to the company.

The wines are each of high quality and show great skills of winemaking. Bera´s Moscato d´Asti is always considered one of the best. Bera´s Asti Spumanti DOCG is a fine example, delicate fresh perfumes with lemon, vanilla and a very elegant taste. Very impressive are also the reds, especially the Barbaresco cru´s. Rabajà is full of character and body, but will show refined flavours with age. A happy family in Piemonte´s Langhe region, preserving traditions and producing great wines.

TASTING NOTES:

• Alta Langa DOC Brut: easy drinkable and fresh sparkling wine, very fruity style. Drink young.
• Langhe Arneis DOC 2015: Most delicate perfume with hints of apricot, fresh and elegant fruit.
• Dolcetto d´Alba DOC 2015: fresh and easy style, nice fruit, expressive, intended to drink young.
• Barbera d´Alba DOC superiore 2011: intense perfume with mature fruit and a complex taste which shows presence of high acidity and length, blackberries, mentol – wonderful wine with some aging potential.
• Langhe rosso DOC Sassisto 2011 (Barbera-Nebbiolo): intense, dark fruit, strong tannins with good acidity, a wine that needs some aging to develop its most delicate taste.
• Barbaresco DOCG 2011: nice, typical Nebbiolo-refined fruit, some balsamic note, balance, good structure and length.
• Barbaresco Rabajà DOCG 2011: Wonderful and really great wine. Refined nose with some fine mature fruit and mentol; The taste is overwhelming with freshness and many sensations, red fruit, mentol, some balsamic, and strong tannins – the wine needs more time. Great length. This is great winemaking.

Near the Langhe this interesting town is situated on a high rock at the point where the rivers Stura and Tanaro flow together. Cherasco hides much culture and history behinds its walls, it is one of those rather well preserved, authentic places in Piemonte. The centre with its narrow and rectangular streets was built according to the same principles as Turin because it was thought that Cherasco would become as important as Turin. Indeed the strategic position of Cherasco on a rock is what it gave it its historical importance.

Cherasco is most famous for some important peace treaties. Well-known is the treaty between Napoleon and the king of Savoie, signed in 1796 after Napoleon´s first campaign into Piemonte. Maybe more important even was the treaty of 1631.

Barolo!  Cherasco is one of the 11 comunes which may produce Italy´s finest wine: Barolo DOCG. Count Fracassi Ratti Mentone (PHOTO), producer of Cherasco´s own Barolo, is a most pleasant and amiable man and has a lot of passion for his wine – fortunately for Cherasco. His cellar is not always open for public, but as the count is by now 80 years, this is logical – so I was fortunate!

The surface of his vineyard is tiny, only 2,5 ha, in fact it is part of the hill of Verduno which remained under Cherasco. Count Fracassi is descendant of a noble family who were among the founders of Cherasco. He proudly shows his historical cellar which is well preserved. I tasted the wine, Barolo DOCG Mantoetto 2011: fine fresh and elegant perfumes, some violets and fruit of blackberries and a taste with some light tannins, fresh fruit, and elegant, long finish. Indeed the wine makes think of a Barolo from Verduno: very elegant and intense but with lighter body and tannins. Still the wine can age well and will open up better after a few years.

Cherasco had probably Ligurian (Celtic) origins before it became a Roman foothold. The podesta of Alba wanted Cherasco as ´villa nuova´, for defensive reasons and built the city walls in 13^th century, partly still visible. Soon after the town fell under the league of Anjou but in 1348 was taken over by Luchino Visconti, duke of Milano and in 1559 Cherasco became Savoie territory. Many buildings, palaces and churches date from this period. When the pest arrived in Piemonte in 1630 Cherasco remained safe and the royal court took residence in the town. The royal court also fled to Cherasco in 1706 when the French sieged Turin, and thus Cherasco.

The impressive belltower dominates the centre. Alas, many of the palaces are still private but some can be visited and show abundant frescoes and decorations. When Cherasco was ruled by Mantova the taxes were lower than in Savoie territory, a reason why many noble families went to live in Cherasco and they lived in some of those many noble palaces. Many churches show the importance of religious life in Cherasco. Interesting are the Chiesa di S.Gregorio, Chiesa di S.Iffredo and the Chiesa di Sant´Agostino – all show typical Piemontese baroque. Also worth visiting are the Chiesa della Madonna delle Grazie and the Santuario della Madonna del Popolo, an impressive domed church. The most historical church is the Chiesa di San Pietro (13^th century).

The synagogue dates from 1740 but Jewish presence in Cherasco dates from 16^th century when they were active as bankers, doctors, silk production and textile trade. The ghetto was created by Savoie in 1740 and traces are still visible. One interesting aspect for which I found sources in the past remains not quite clear: the trade with olive oil and anchovy along the salt roads. Is it true that the Jews from Cherasco were the initiators of the famous Piemontese receipt ´bagna caoda´. Did they? This has to be researched. At least they left Cherasco with one dish because they could not eat pork: the salsiccia di Cherasco – with calf´s meat.

There is a rich cultural life and Cherasco knows too much events to quote. Worth visiting is the antique market, Mercato dell´antiquariato, held 3 times a year and much visited.

The wine from Cherasco can be purchased at Enoteca Mentone, directed by Fabrizio Stecca.
www.enotecapalazzomentone.it.

Many thanks to Marella Fumero, assessore of Cherasco and to Barbara Davico.

Today is 14 February: for all those who are bored by the mass of incredibly stupid and commercial-driven Valentine promotions there is an alternative: ST.TRIFUN. And the good news is:  it allows you to drink a lot of good wine!  Therefore 14 February should become an important day for all wine lovers!!

Other than Valentine´s day – a strange tradition having its roots more or less in 18^th century Britain (and then strange enough based on some legend of two priests who were martyrs and killed because of their belief in Christ), this is a very old tradition. It is celebrated in orthodox cultures in the Balkans, especially Macedonia, Serbia, Bulgaria and Montenegro (unfortunately also here this strange and commerce-driven Valentine´s day is arriving too, especially in the big cities but let´s hope that St.Trifun will prevail…). In the past the cultus was widely distributed to Greece, the Adriatic coast, Venice and other places in Italy and even Russia. Some places, like Bari, still celebrate San Trifone but on 3 February. Italian emigrants even took it to the USA: in the S.Pietro church in Los Angeles there is San Trifone´s statue. And Eastern orthodox churches celebrates St.Valentine too but in a non-commercial way and in June or July.

The tradition of Sveti Trifun is based on a saint who lived in the 3d century: Saint Tryphon. He is considered the patron saint of wine and of restaurant owners. The tradition is observed by the orthodox church where local priests bless the branches of a vine plant in order to bless the new grape growing season. The feast is orthodox Christian in its origins and can also be considered as a symbol of the connection between land and the spirits to wish a fruitful harvest. St.Tryphon was born in 3d century in a pious family in Phrygia, Asia Minor, part of present Turkey.  The name Tryfun can be explained as of a noble spirit. Legend says he cured the daughter of the ruler of the Roman Empire, Gordian III, and as a result was given presents and honours which he gave to the poor. Later he was tortured and killed by the Romans. He is considered a saint and his remains were transfered to Kotor in  Montenegro. He was much celebrated in Asia minor in the 5th century AD and in Constantinople. Later the calendar changed and the data of his feast changed to 14 February.

As the Orthodox Church believed in the power of prayer to saints like Sv.Trifun, they set up this tradition which is done in fields, gardens or vineyards, against illnesses which may be caused by insects, mice and other animals. When you spread some oil considered to be given by St. Tryphon across a field, garden or vineyard, it is considered to be protected by St.Tryphon. In such a way St.Tryphon became the patron of field crops. It´s culture is followed in different forms in Bulgaria, Serbia or Macedonia but it always tends to pay attention to the vineyards, at the moment when they are still sleeping because of the winter cold. The blessing is said to give the plant strength after this long winter’s sleep, so that it will flourish in spring and will bring fruit later that year. In Macedonia this is considered the moment when the farmers can start the pruning of the plants.

Of course after the initial celebration there will be rich dinners with abundant wine.  A great moment to discover Macedonian wine!
I witnessed this in Negotino in Macedonia where wine was served abundantly and accompanied by traditional Macedonian music by very skilled musicians. Maybe Macedonia is the place where the day of St.Trifun can be best followed.

Let´s only hope that St.Trifun never in the future will be victim of commerce as Valentine´s day has become!

CONCLUSION: for all those who are bored with this commerce-driven Valentine´s day there is a good reason to drink a good wine on 14 February!

Among the sheer unlimited variety of wine grapes it seems only a few are produced in bigger volumes. Often it is said this is because other varieties are not interesting. But is this really the case? It would be disappointing to drink always wine of the same grape variety: variation is one of wine’s most interesting aspects. Piemonte’s rich heritage of many grape varieties is so typical for Piemonte´s viticulture. Local DOC/Gs allow for some 50 indigenous varieties but university researchers claim to have discovered ca 300 different varieties (most still have to be researched however).

One grape was for a long period the most planted in Piemonte and now almost forgotten: Freisa. After Phylloxera other varieties replaced it because they were easier to work with like Barbera and Nebbiolo. Estimations say there are some 2000 hectares of Freisa left in Piemonte. So: is Freisa difficult? Maybe, but it can produce delicious wines. Time for a closer look.

Interesting to notice is that Freisa is directly related to Nebbiolo. It’s first quote was in 1517 Ad as Fresearum in the customs documents of Pancalieri (with a higher price than Nebbiolo) and documents from 1692 and 1760 prove cultivation of Freisa in various parts of Monferrato. The word Freisa or Fresia might origin from the French word fraise (strawberry). All this is reason for my hypothesis: as it is generally believed that Nebbiolo has its origins in North Piemonte or Valtellina, it is probable that Freisa has its origin there too. My hypothesis is that during Middle Age Nebbiolo was brought south together with Freisa. I presume that they were both first taken to North Monferrato and then to Collina Torinese, Pinerolese, Colli Tortonesi and finally also to the Langhe. Just like Nebbiolo it is still planted and present in DOCs like Collina Torinese, Freisa Di Chieri DOC, Pinerolese DOC, Colline Novaresi DOC, Coste della Sesia DOC, Colli Tortonesi DOC, Monferrato DOC and also in Langhe DOC. Both Nebbiolo and Freisa are among Piemonte’s most widely distributed grapes but Freisa only in tiny quantities.

Most planted is subvariety Freisa piccolo (Freisa Grossa alias Neretta Cuneese is less interesting for wine production). Its form is cylindrical and it is highly vigorous. It thrives well on the marly-chalk soils in the hills of Piemonte. Acidity level is medium and Freisa has abundant tannin potential reason why Freisa possesses a good aging potential.

Freisa was popular because it is easy to produce a light frizzy and sweet wine of it and because of its resistance against some diseases and against rot. The long tradition of frizzante wines is continued by Freisa di Chieri DOC or Freisa d´Asti frizzante DOC and there is a rare rosé in the area around Ivrea, Canavese rosato DOC. As a result tradition has arisen to consider Freisa as only suited for sparkling or frizzante wines. To me however, the real interesting wine of Freisa is its still version: it can be a great wine if the producer has worked well.

So why are there are so few dry Freisa wines? Answer: the phenolic content of the grape is high and creates problems for the producer. Some Freisa wines are not easy to drink because of dominating green tannins. These tannins are the real problem for each producer who wants to get it right: if they are too intense or too ´dry´ the wine will become undrinkable but when the wine lacks tannins it can become thin and uninteresting and such wines will not improve with aging. So producers have to search for the right balance and avoid those ´green´ tannins. But when it contains this balance between mature tannins and mature fruit, Freisa can be a wonderful wine with structure, and those typical, intense notes of blackberry, raspberry and freshness. Barrel aging can contribute to such balance. It will never be a concurrent for Nebbiolo in elegance and depth but is a very valid and important Piemontese wine; it should be mentioned together with grapes like Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto and is another reason why Piemonte is such a miraculously rich wine region.

What I like in such well made Freisa wines are these rich, earthy tones, intense black fruit, raspberry, some mint, great freshness and 14% alcohol. It can be full of character and will go well with winter dishes and game. This I consider the real authentic style of dry Freisa. There are some lighter wines indeed, maybe easy drinkable, but as they lack much of the tannin structure they are not long-lived and will never reach this strong character with those typical black-fruit nose.

Alas in the past its tannic content was reason for some famous wine critics to write very negative comments about Freisa. All this is related to the old style of Freisa with too dry and bitter tannins, all unbalanced. By now many producers are working with more attention and produce a wine with more moderate and balanced tannins which results in drinkable styles and aging potential.

Another aspect of Freisa: maybe it is at its best in blends. But this is another article: follow this blog.

There are some producers who strongly continue to believe in Freisa like Gianni Vergnano, Aldo Vajra and Domenico Capello. Here some recommended wines:

• Beccaria, Monferrato Freisa DOC 2013
  Well made Freisa. Tannins are present but well integrated and the wine presents the typical blackberry and raspberry fruit, freshness and long finish. A fine example of a mature and enjoyable Freisa.
• Cascina Gilli, Freisa d´Asti DOC 2012
  Beautiful wine, nice fruit, blackberries and freshness. Can age wonderful, good acidity, some vintages are worth keeping for at least ten years! A discovery.
• La Montagnetta, Freisa d´Asti DOC 2012
  This version is produced with partly dried grapes, which gives the wine richness. Very acceptable and quite strong, even if the dried grapes dominate maybe a little over the freshness which makes Freisa actually so interesting.
• Vajra, Langhe Freisa DOC 2012
  Star producer of Barolo, Aldo Vajra proves the potential of Freisa with his impressive wine. One of my favourite Freisa wines is Vajra´s Kyè, a great wine, beautiful intense fruit, length, freshness, blackberries. Needs some years of ageing but a wonderful wine.
• Massa, Colli Tortonesi Freisa DOC l´avvelenata 2011
  Who knows Freisa will recognize the typical blackberry-fruit also in this wine. Rather more easy drinking but a very serious wine, by star-winemaker Walter Massa. Interesting wine from the Colli Tortonesi. The wine is less structured, but with notes of raspberry, some mint and freshness.

OTHER INTERESTING PRODUCERS OF DRY FREISA: Rossotto, Scarpa, az.agr.499, Accornero, Borgogno, Mauro Mascarello, Cavallotto, Tenuta Santa Caterina, Il Crotin 1897, Mosparone, Ca Barun, Giacomo Boveri, Mariotto and Cantine Valpane.

Italy is destination number one for anyone with cultural interest. Lovers of culture, Renaissance, art, history, they all visit Italy: its vast cultural heritage is the main attraction for many. But do they understand this in Piemonte? I did have some doubts…

It was a sunny day in October, many years ago, when I first visited the Roman town Libarna, an important excavation, in size and in value and I didn´t know anything of it. At my arrival I was surprised: there was nobody! I even had to jump across the fence in order to get in – so the photos in my Piemonte Wine and Travel Atlas (page 170) were made by an illegal intruder: me. Why was there nobody? No surveillance, no office to pay your entrance fee? Just a fence, and you have to walk over a small pedestrian bridge passing the railway to get a clear view of the site. This is not the most romantic entrance for a monument, but that is known also of other important attractions of Antiquity in Italy, Pompeï in the first place, so that should not be a problem.

After my illegal jump, I´m wondering where to start: in front of me is a long line of foundations of houses all in the typical Roman, rectangular style. The site is of the same size as the foro romano, and I am here alone! I take my time, enjoy the sun and enter some houses – that is their foundations, the only thing left – and wonder how they lived here, did they drink wine, did they enjoy life? And how?

I walk along an old Roman street, look at the market, further on there are some remains of a spa. I scroll down a field and enter the amphitheatre. It is big, many thousands of spectators were looking at the contests here. Again a sign that the town had economical importance.

Romans and Greek have been in Piemonte and before them the Celts and probably there were contacts with the Etruscans and maybe even Egyptians. Despite all this history a visitor to Piemonte will see extremely little of the rich past: stones are used to build homes and towns like Asti and Alba have been built on top of Roman foundations. But here we have it all: between dramatic high Apennines, the Scrivia river and the railway, Libarna is an important Roman monument. Maybe its history is even older: it is known that the Etruscans founded a stronghold near Genoa (6^th century BC) and may have also used this pathway. And imagine that only one tenth of the town is in sight: in the neighbourhood they constructed the railway and industrial plants so there is little chance that some other part of Libarna may become visible. Also for the industry Libarna´s position is strategical because this is still the important trade route between the Mediterranean and the economically important Po-valley, as it was in Roman times: the via Postumia (created in 148 BC) connected the Roman empire through the Apennines with Gallia Cisalpina (now Piemonte). How strange that nobody can tell me more about this place! Here many thousands of Romans once lived, the people that founded our civilisation. Maybe this is North Italy´s biggest Roman visible monument but nobody knows!

Probably he passed with a little army of captains and some logistical staff because much of his army he recruited in Piemonte before entering Gallia, maybe some of them from Libarna.

Libarna has the potential to become one of Piemonte´s most visited spots in future. Once the tourists will know it they will arrive. But… here is a problem: even the Piemontese don´t know nothing about Libarna! So: nobody knows.

SURPRISE!

How great my surprise when I received last week an interesting invitation to return to Libarna for a most promising event: ´archeosapori´ – a creatively found name (we are in Italy..) promising a combination of attention for historical monuments and wine. Two wine consorzios present their most prominent speakers, Walter Massa, a poetic speaker and one of Italy´s most talented but also most unpredictable winemakers, from the Colli Tortonesi, and Francesco Bergaglio, director of Gavi Consorzio, also a man with vision. Yes! There is consiousness that Libarna has a big historical meaning.

Libarna was a big town were the travellers came for a rest, a meal, some drink. Taverns and also remains of wine consumption have been found, as I learn from some scholars who are present. Finally, Libarna seems to awake from a 2.000 year long sleep! Not only: we learn that wine was produced here and also drunk in the local taverns. Was it Timorasso or Cortese? At this point researchers have no answer but research on Libarna is still going on.

And this…

There is something else too: Libarna is situated between two important, fast developing wine regions: Gavi and Colli Tortonesi. Libarna might even become a meeting point between the two. ´Not a point of division but a point of collaboration´ as Miss.Iudica Dameri, president of the Associazione Libarna Arteventi, puts it. How interesting this statement! Probably Miss.Dameri does not know how Italian wine producers and wine regions tend to quarrel and dispute and divide until the last moment. They are like Dutch evangelicals: with 2 persons they create a new church, with 3 persons, there is a division in the church. Italian wine producers and consorzi are exactly the same, they are famous for that. So collaboration can be seen as quite revolutionary in this respect….

Both wine regions receive increasing interest from abroad and wine tourism is slowly developing. Both regions produce a famous white wine. Once in the area of Alba two important wine regions (of red DOCG wines) made peace and became known worldwide: Barolo & Barbaresco. Why not an agreement of the same type between these two wine regions: Gavi & Colli Tortonesi? Massa and Bergaglio show interest to create more synergy between the two wine regions and some practical suggestions for collaboration come up even if both areas are still quite different: Gavi produces at least 13 million bottles of Gavi DOCG, the Colli Tortonesi, although a big producer of Barbera, produces a tiny volume of only 300.000 bottles of its famous wine Timorasso. Besides, the wines are different too: Gavi DOCG is a somewhat lighter mineral wine with a slight nervous but elegant character, often the mineral soils shine through which lends the wine some interest, but Gavi remains a more delicate, lighter wine, lighter in alcohol and in ´mouthfeel´. Timorasso on the other side is a more heavy style white, with often more power, structure and mouthfeel. But the idea of creating an ´isola bianca´ might be of interest to both.

So maybe this weekend we have seen something revolutionary happening in Southeast Piemonte. Something that soon will draw international attention to the area. Will there be one day when people will say: for the big red wines you have to go to the Langhe for the big white wines you have to go to the ´isola bianca´, Libarna?
It was an interesting day: not only the awakening of Libarna after 2.000 years but also the start of collaboration between two promising wine regions. Whatever will happen, the amphitheatre of Libarna is there, open to every visitor and I am very sure that this will become an important tourist destination in future. And, if the consorzios of Gavi and Colli Tortonesi would decide to built an enoteca (not sure they will – there are too much enotecas at this moment in Piemonte… but if.. ) dedicated to their white wines, for sure Libarna would be the right place for such an enoteca regionale. But before that much water must pass the Scrivia river below Libarna… But in Italy everything is possible.

For more information, read: Piemonte Wine and Travel Atlas by Paul Balke
www.paulbalke.com

MONFERRATO AND EXPO

Millions of visitors will visit the EXPO event in Milano. Many politicians have been speaking of the opportunities EXPO will bring to Italy and it´s suffering economy. Italy needs impulses so any economic boost will be wellcome. Apart from economic impulses, also some positivity may be needed. Italy has a lot to offer but needs also more positive thinking. Visitors of EXPO can enjoy many pavillions where incredible creativity and impressive sums of money have been spend. It´s a 2-mile long adventure park with some extravagant, futuristic constructions next to modest but intelligent set-ups like the Dutch pavillion. Is that all there is to say? No, there is more. Expectations have gone further as there were expectations that more tourists will spend time in Italy which might be a much needed impulse for Italy´s tourism sector. Italy offers the world´s most dense concentration of culture, history, art, gastronomy, wine, architecture, monuments, so the relation is obvious. Probably most visitors will make up their mind before and visit destinations they know from beforehand. So where will they go? Alas, many of them will not visit Monferrato and that is a pity.

What is MONFERRATO? It is one of Italy´s most interesting and beautiful regions, situated at only 1 hour drive from the pavillions of EXPO.

Monferrato is situated in the heart of Piemonte. It´s name has probably to do with the fertile hills ´mons ferax´: the German emperor granted it in the 10^th century to his vassal, Aleramo, who became the first ruler of Monferrato (961 AD, the story is a legend, however). It boasts some of Italy´s most beautiful landscapes, history, culture, interesting towns, wonderful and original wines, authentic gastronomy and space.

UNESCO

Monferrato landscapes have been awarded UNESCO world heritage in 2014. It’s landscapes are of great beauty. Visitors will be surprised to see so much space, often untouched territory with many open fields, forests, vineyards, little towns situated on hilltops, and so well-maintained. After the Second World War Monferrato lost part of its inhabitants and population is stil lower than before 1940. As a result in many villages more than 50% of houses are always closed which give those villages a sleeping image. The many castles offer a great attraction, most of them are from Middle Age. Parts of Monferrato can be very melancholic, offering romantic views, especially in winter time. Take for example the road from Lu Monferrato to Vignale Monferrato, or the road from Viarigi along Grana and Calliano to Moncalvo. Or the winding road from Nizza Monferrato to Acqui Terme. Such roads are offering mind-blowing panoramas and it is a question of time when international public will start to discover this timeless landscape.

Monferrato is huge: it forms the biggest part of the South central hills of Piemonte. It can be divided in three parts: Basso Monferrato (often the word ´basso´ is left away), the northern part between the river Tanaro and the Po river; Astigiano is the part of Monferrato around Asti, more or less equal to Asti province; Alto Monferrato is the part south of Nizza Monferrato along the towns of Acqui Terme and Ovada, where the hills end up in the Appenines which form the border between Piemonte and the sea.

WINE

Monferrato is one of Italy´s biggest wine production areas and the real heart of Piemonte´s wine scene. Few wine regions boasts such a huge variety of grapes, wines, wine styles, DOCs and DOCGs. Barbera and Moscato are most produced. But there is a wealth of indigenous grapes which few international winelovers will have tasted: Grignolino, Ruché, Malvasia di Casorzo, Malvasia di Castelnuovo don Bosco, Freisa, Albarossa, Cortese, Brachetto. Also Dolcetto can be found, mostly in the higher hills to the south, especially around Ovada.

The part north of Asti is highly interesting: here you will find much Barbera which can be outstanding. But you may also discover a rather unknown wine: Grignolino, which used to be overly tannic and acidic but now producers have paid more attention to fermentation and aging producing a style that can please a bigger public. Actually producers are also working on an aged version. Local sweet red Malvasia di Casorzo (or Casorzo DOC) can be overwhelming. Also Freisa thrives here and some ones can be found near Casale or near Castelnuovo don Bosco. Another interesting grape is Ruché which produces a very elegant, smooth and light aromatic wine with hints of herbs and light red fruit.

South of Asti the most produced wines are Moscato d´Asti DOCG and Asti DOCG, which together reach a production of ca 100 million bottles a year. But also here we can find new interesting developments, like the Nizza DOCG, a Barbera Superiore, which has been aged and is in fact a reserve version. Some Nizza DOCG wines belong to the elite of Piemonte´s red wines. The Asti area is also much dominated by Barbera (as Barbera d´Asti DOCG) and many are reliable and present an excellent price/quality ratio. Recently producers started to return to some forgotten varieties of former times, like Uvalino (still vino da tavola), or Gamba di Pernice (now Calosso DOC).

Further south and southeast it is Alto Monferrato which ends up near the mountains. A wonderful territory with interesting towns like Acqui Terme, Ovada, but also many little forgotten villages and castles in between, in some castles there should be even phantoms as locals believe. Also in this part we find much Moscato and Barbera. Near Acqui Terme we find another local wine: Brachetto d´Acqui DOCG, a wonderful, fragrant, light sweet wine, traditionally drunk at Christmas. Another upcoming wine is Albarossa, also planted elsewhere in Piemonte, a crossing of Chatus and Barbera and considered Piemonte´s next interesting red wine, well-made and with some elegance, some depth, some tannins. Near Ovada it is Dolcetto territory produced as Ovada DOCG, in fact a Dolcetto superiore, because the wine needs more aging. Some producers surprise with outstanding, complex, tannine-rich wines, which are still quite drinkable with an intense fruit expression and aging potential. Also some interesting sparkling wines are made here, mostly from Cortese grapes.

TRUFFLES

Monferrato is truffle territory: a high percentage of Piemonte´s truffles are found in Monferrato. The typical dry calcareous soils in combination with the fog and somewhat humid autumn climate contribute to the growth of this unique fungus. In autumn there are charming little truffle fairs like the ones in Moncalvo, Murisengo and San Sebastiano Curone. And from November on prices are lower but quality is at its best!

GASTRONOMY

Who drives on a working day in the hills of Monferrato may have difficulties finding a restaurant. Tourism has still to be developed, and as a result many restaurants are not always open, but fortunately now with the I-phones and Androids this problem can easily be solved.
Monferrato´s gastronomy is one of Italy´s most rich and original kitchens, dominated by the local produce, meat and vegetables, herbs and rice from the rice fields near Novara.

Some good restaurants (the list is not complete!!): La Commedia della Pentola (Lu Monferrato), Cascina Martini (Murisengo), La Torre (Casale Monferrato), Hotel Paleologhi (Lu Monferrato), Ametista (Moncalvo), La Braja (Montemagno), Due Lanterne (Nizza Monferrato), Da Bardon (San Marzano Oliveto), Locanda del Boscogrande (Montegrosso d´Asti), I Caffi (Acqui Terme), Nuovo Parisio (Acqui Terme), La Loggia (Acqui Terme), Cacciatori (Cartosio).

HISTORY & CULTURE

The marquisate of Monferrato was first ruled by the Alerami family, then Gonzaga di Mantova and finally it became part of Savoie terrritory, which later changed name into Piemonte.

There are also some interesting cultural festivals: Bacco & Bach, Grignolino a Grignolino, Riso e Rose in Monferrato. There are interesting towns like Acqui Terme, Ovada, Casale Monferrato, Nizza Monferrato, but also many little forgotten villages and castles in between. Too much to quote in this page – follow this blog.

Enjoying this sweet and romantic territory, the good wines, the authentic local dishes, the great truffles in autumn, you will forget time and get lost in the middle of these hills. But getting lost in these hills is recommendable, it is a great experience. It will allow you to discover places where time stands still, where old traditions are not yet forgotten and where every foreign visitor is wellcomed.

More information on EXPO and Monferrato: follow this blog.

More information on Piemonte: read ´Piemonte Wine and Travel Atlas´ by Paul Balke

See also:  http://www.monferratoexpo2015.com/en/