One of those places that remain unknown even to experienced Italy lovers is the town Saluzzo. Once this little town at the foot of the high Monviso mountain was the capital of an indepent country, the marchesato del Saluzzo, which covered a huge territory both in the Alps to the west and to the east into the Langhe hills, including Dogliani and its territory where it almost included Barolo. It is a wonderful little town with a well preserved old centre.
Saluzzo once covered a big part of the territories of the provinces of Cuneo and Torino. The Marquesate reached the period of greatest splendor in the 15th century: Marquis Ludovico I contained a policy of neutrality towards the wars in Italy and acted as a mediator between the emperor and the king of France. He also had the first tunnel through the Alps built, the Buco di Viso which connected Saluzzo with the Dauphiné and the Provence. When his children fought about his throne, the King of France profitted to annex Saluzzo to France. But with Treaty of Lyon (1601) the Duke of Savoy managed to join Saluzzo to his possessions and this situation remained until the Unification of Italy.

Photo: the ‘Buco di Viso‘ the first tunnel through the Alps, constructed by Ludovico II of Saluzzo in the 16th century at a height of 2.882 m above sea level.

Under Savoy
When in the 16th century Saluzzo became part of the reign of the counts of Savoie, it lost its importance and remained almost forgotten. The court of Saluzzo had been known for its vivacious artistic life with musicians and intellectuals visiting and there was a medical school, quite revolutionary for the time. When Leonardo da Vinci went to France, his last travel, he stopped several days in Saluzzo receiving much honours by the Marchese di Saluzzo. The old part of the town has remained very authentic and is a real jewel, with little medieval streets, arcades, old palaces and churches.
Between 1475 and 1504 the Marchese di Saluzzo gave this palace to the Cavassa family, one of the highlights of the historical part of the town, high on the hill. Casa Cavassa is one of Piemonte´s highlights of the Renaissance period because of its particular paintings showing a remarkable welfare. Above the entrance there is the family weapon with the motto “Droit quoi qu’il soit”, because the Cavassa family reigned justice for the Marchese di Saluzzo.

Unforgettable are the paintings of Hans Clemer, a Flemish painter who had come into contact with the Renaissance in the Provence. His frescoes in the Cattedrale are quite remarkable as the painting ´La Madonna della Misericordia´ (1499-1500) in Casa Cavassa. Above the town is the old Castello the fortress that for long time became a prison and is now in phase of getting a new destination.

Photo: The ‘La Madonna della Misericordia’ painting by Hans Klemer in Casa Cavassa.

Protestant influence: a particular history
Saluzzo is one of those corners of Italy that remains undiscovered. The area is very mountainous, dominated by Mon Viso. But during the Middle Ages the routes through the mountains were important ways of comunication with the other side of the Alps.
During the period of the Reformation in the 16^th century the protestant influence was strong, also because in many bordering territories the Protestant influence was dominant: in the areas near Turin and Pinerolo, Racconigi, Carmagnola and south vs Cuneo. And the fact that in the Provence and the Dauphiné many huguenots were living contributed to the Protestant influence in Saluzzo. It is remarkable to notice that in the Marquisate of Saluzzo the spread of the Reformation did not cause deeply-rooted divisions among the local population, but rather extended and transformed the pre-existing diversity of religious expressions and ritual practices.

Photo: in the old center of Saluzzo: the oldest parts are dating from early Middle Age and are well preserved. This part of Saluzzo is often used by film crews who are looking for an authentic setting.

Is there wine in this rather unknown area of Piemonte?
As you may expect from a capital of a former state, there are wines and they are based on very old traditions. These traditions date at least from early Middle Age but probably there was viticulture before. The Saluzzo area is surrounded by three glacial valleys: the Valle Po, the Val Bronda and Val Varaita. Because of the small Ice Age of the 16th century, when the earth’s temperature dropped, planting vines in the Saluzzo area was so difficult that the grapes obtained a low sugar level and a high level of acidity. For a long period the wines were known for low alcohol but that has changed because of the climate change. Even here, in this cool area at the foot of Monviso, there are now wines that can sometimes reach 14.5 degrees of volume.
Today these wines, and vineyards, lying at the foot of the Alps, are practically unknown to a wider public, even in Italy.
There are hundred hectares of vineyards around Saluzzo: they start just north of Saluzzo and continue south until Costigliole Saluzzo. And, what is very interesting, there are also very unknown, obscure grapes still in production.
The wines from the area of Saluzzo may have the DOC Colline Saluzzesi.

Chateau d’Yquem and Saluzzo
Even less known is that one of the descendents of Marchese Saluzzo married in 1785 Francoise-Joséphine de Sauvage, owner of Château d´Yquem, that is why the late owners were called Conte de Lur-Saluces – a clear link to the history of Saluzzo. Also this story is almost forgotten.

Wineries and grape varieties
There are several typical Piemontese varieties found in this area, among them Nebbiolo, Freisa, Barbera, Neretto and others.
But there are some grape varieties that are typical for the area of Saluzzo:
– Pelaverga (or: Pelaverga di Saluzzo): this is a light aromatic red grape that gives delightful and not so heavy wines and good rosé wines. The alcohol level is low. It is a different variety from Pelaverga di Verduno to which it is not related. It is thought that this variety has been introduced here in the 8th century by the monks.
– Quagliano: a very rare variety, somewhat similar to Brachetto. It gives elegant sweet, red wines with low alcohol and very elegant aromas. It is very aromatic and therefore mostly used as sweet wine – normally it comes with 5% alcohol.
– Chatus: this grape variety is also found in France in the Auvergne. Here in Piemonte it is also called ‘Nebbiolo di Dronero’ but that name is very confusing. It gives a rather light, drinkable red wine with some structure.

– Maero Vini
www.maerovini.com
Leading winemaker Emidio Maero presents eccellent rosato and red wines from the unknown variety Pelaverga and other wines.
– Cascina Melognis is a small family winery, guided by professor Michele Fino and his wife Vanina Carta. They produce several wines that are typical for the area, all based on local, authentic varieties.

Restaurants:
ristorante La Cave
ristorante Monviso
in Cavour: Locanda la Posta

Sleep: Hotel Griselda
Shop: Karver wine shop. Here you can find a fantastic selection of local and Italian wines. This shop is another reason to visit Saluzzo!

Photo: Vanina Carta and here wine, Cascina Melognis.

Why does this book cover wine regions in three countries? The answer: because the real, physical wine region is situated in these 3 countries and these territories share the same terroir, the same history, the same viticultural traditions, culture, and gastronomy. And it is a fascinating story to tell. It is in fact ONE TERROIR, THREE COUNTRIES.

In a few weeks, my new book will be published: NORTH ADRIATIC, covering Friuli Venezia Giulia, West Slovenia, Istria, and Kvarner. The North Adriatic is partly Italian, partly Slovenian, and partly Croatian. The present borders were created only after 1947 and, important wine regions were divided into two parts. Today, this is a very peaceful part of Europe and there is a fascinating wine scene with so many interesting producers presenting wines in many different ways. The traditional wines from Friuli Venezia Giulia can be wonderful, elegant, and sometimes overwhelming. This is a great wine region! And the western regions in Slovenia have seen a fast development and many young, enthousiast producers starting recently. Istria is one of the most beautiful areas of the Adriatic and also there is so much development. And who knew that the Kvarner has very authentic and wonderful wines? There is a lot to discover and this makes the region fascinating. All that is reason for my new upcoming book: NORTH ADRIATIC.

MY MISSION is to create worldwide awareness that this region belongs to the selection of most important macro-regions of Europe: next to Bordeaux, Burgundy, Piemonte, Tuscany, also the NORTH ADRIATIC should be seen as one of Europe’s important wine regions. This is an important ambition.

The great wines, the many fascinating winemakers, the interesting diversity, the well-kept wineries, the beauty of the landscapes, the gastronomy, altogether this makes the North Adriatic a European top destination. There are so many elegant wines that show their unique terroir. And it is not only whites, also red wines are of great diversity and can be of great class. But it is not only the prestigious wines that make a region important.; it is also the originality of the wines, and the North Adriatic has a great number of highly original wines.

Few European wine regions have such a moving history. It creates a special attraction because the winemakers not only need to explain their wines, soil, terroir, etc. They also can tell about their history. Everywhere, there are remains of the First or Second World War. But more important is the fact that the region has remained a fascinating wine region. The regions have much in common, also climate and soils, which don’t stop at the borders.

The famous ‘ponca‘ soil is found along a ridge of many kilometers, in Italy, Slovenia, Istria, and Kvarner. And the climate is fascinating because it is very different from that of other wine regions at the same latitude, made possible by the Alps and the Adriatic. The abundance of indigenous grape varieties and the great skills of the winemakers in Friuli, Slovenia, and Istria make that there is a huge diversity of great wines.

And did you ever hear of orange wines? It is here that this trend started. In my book, I will explain the wines and give my vision on some topics related to the orange wines.

Collio is maybe the most well-known part of this region: it has claimed an important status as one of Italy’s top white wine regions. There is a huge number of absolutely fantastic wines of great elegance in Collio. On the other side of the border is Goriška Brda, or ‘Brda‘: once Collio and Brda were the same without any division but in 1947 came the border and Brda became part of Yugoslavia. Is it a setback for Brda? I don’t think so, because Brda, too, is a great wine region that merits the same status as Italian Collio. More you will read in my book. Another important region is Colli Orientali, situated in the eastern hills of Friuli, with an abundance of fantastic wineries. In my book, you will learn more! Also about Isonzo, which is a smaller wine region: it has a large number of high-quality wines and prestigious wineries. And there is much more: Friuli Grave is a large region that is undiscovered by the public, time to discover the wines of Grave! The same for Karst and Aquileia which are smaller regions but have much to offer. And did you ever hear of the Vipava valley? It is such a wonderful wine region: a long valley with many fantastic wines: a particular mosaic of wines. And then Istria: my research learned me many interesting aspects of Istria’s wine history. And, do not forget the Slovenian part of Istria: it makes interesting wines. But the biggest part is Croatian Istria where they make elegant Malvasias. By the way, Istria knows such a huge amount of highly interesting cultural monuments! Everybody loves Istria. And did you know that the Kvarner is a very interesting and original wine region? Read my book!

The interesting aspect of the North Adriatic is the multitude of countries and influences: Slavic, Venetian, Italian, Austrian influences are still everywhere. And the gastronomy? In many restaurants, dishes are offered with Italian, Austrian, and Slavic influences. This is the typical regional cuisine, it is fusion. The gastronomy alone is a reason to discover this region.
Photo: vineyards in Isonzo wine region: it has a lot of high-quality wines.

The NORTH ADRIATIC will be a book with 20 chapters and interesting information about history, gastronomy, geology, and orange wines. There is much information about the patrimony of indigenous grape varieties. The wine regions in the book are Colli Orientali, Collio & Brda, Isonzo, Grave, Aquileia, Karst, Vipava, Slovenian and Croatian Istria, and Kvarner. It contains 256 pages and 600 full-color photos by 2 professional photographers and maps of all regions. The design will be of high quality.

Are you interested? The book can be sent to your home. Price is EUR 50,00 (ex sending costs). For more information contact me: paulbalkewine@gmail.com

Paul Balke
www.paulbalke.com

PS: in one wine tour you can visit wineries, places, and restaurants in Friuli Venezia Giulia, Slovenia, and Istria, in 3 countries. It makes the region extra interesting!

The region has great beauty and herewith some impressions:

The book offers an introduction to the regions of Friuli Venezia Giulia – West Slovenia – Istria – Kvarner.

Are you interested in a copy? There are several ways of acquiring it:

1. Your local bookshop, but not yet all bookshops have the book. I am working to organize the distribution of the book in various bookshops in Italy, the Netherlands, Belgium, and the USA. More information will follow.
2. Amazon
3. Buy from me directly: send me an email and I will give you all information to have the book as soon as possible in your home.

This is my email address: paulbarolo@gmail.com.

This wine, Goriška Brda belo 2015, is a blend of 50% Sauvignonasse, 30% Rebula, 15% Pinot Blanc and 5% Pinot Gris.

The alcohol-level in wines has become a topic.* According to many reviews and blogs there is a trend for lower-alcohol wines. First of all: I’m not sure if such a trend exists: some high-alcohol wines have great success (think of Amarone della Valpolicella, Zinfandel from California or Shiraz from Australia among others: wines with many followers worldwide). At least it shows that there are different trends too. Generally, alcohol levels in wines have risen and climate change is an important factor here. Another factor is the trend of quality wine-making. Wines that used to have 12% now often show 14% and those of 13 are going beyond 15,5 or even 16%. Today many Barberas from Piemonte show at least 14% but some are above 15% or even 15,5%.** Shiraz from Australia or Zinfandel from California often contain 16% or more. Many famous whites contain more alcohol, like Burgundy, Rhône and Italian whites like Timorasso in Piemonte.

Today many winemakers produce more mature wines, with more phenolic ripeness and alcohol. When the phenolic components are riper, the tannins and flavors of a wine will be more intense and rich and the alcohol level will contribute to a more intense taste profile. A grape berry has several components (skin, flesh, seeds, stem) and when each of them has developed to full maturity, the resulting wine will taste richer. To achieve this, modern winemakers work with lower yields (which stimulates the plant to dedicate all energy on fewer grapes) and a later harvest moment (which results not only in higher alcohol but also in more phenolic ripeness). The result can be a fantastic wine with incredible depth, structure, and amazing richness of flavors but also more alcohol.

It is very important to notice that these wines have reached their alcohol level in a natural way, by fermenting the sugars, without adding anything (adding sugar is not needed). It means that these wines, if well-made, show a natural balance between the various aspects that compose the taste (alcohol, acidity, tannins, perfumes, flavors). Especially the acidity level is important: if the acidity is too low, the alcohol may dominate and the wine will lose balance. In that case, the wines are less interesting (Pinot Noir is an exception, it gives some of the greatest wines, but has low acidity). It is this balance that makes that the aromas and flavors dominate the wine in combination with the alcohol. The alcohol level is not disturbing at all and reading the back-label can be a surprise. A wine can also have balance but still be dull and never arrive at this point of excellence, so it is also the depth and the substance in a wine that makes its greatness: and this comes almost necessarily with higher alcohol. For the production of such wines, great skill from the winemaker is needed. Most of the best wines I tasted during the last ten years are in this category. And it is very clear that alcohol contributes to the success of these great wines with balance.

Another factor that helped increase the alcohol levels in wines was a very influential critic from the USA who had a clear preference for strong, alcoholic wines.

So: if these wines are so great, what is then the problem? First of all, there is a category of drinkers looking for lower alcohol wines. It can be elderly, or those who are sensitive to alcohol, or those who prefer to avoid the consequences of drinking too much alcohol. This is logical and acceptable. So there is a market for lower alcohol wines.

But on the producers’ side, there are complaints and they have some reason. Because during the last decades, producers, associations, universities, enologues, etcetera, have invested much time and effort to create the new trend of quality wine that I quoted above. All this resulted in wines with more concentration and more alcohol. And the producers cannot easily change philosophy. Harvesting earlier means not only less alcohol and fresher wines but it also has as a consequence that a producer has to leave his quality concept. There are many terroirs where the best wine will automatically be an important (higher alcohol) wine, like Barossa valley for Shiraz or Napa for Cabernet. There seems no other way. The same with Nebbiolo in Piemonte and Aglianico in Campania. The solution to this problem is not easy.

One solution, which remains very important, is to convince the consumers that quality wine can be very enjoyable even if the wine has a higher alcohol percentage. Most of the great wines in the world are in this category, and, besides, you don’t drink wine for thirst! In restaurants and at home you can always drink water in order to reduce the alcohol effect. In all Italian restaurants, the first question to the guests is which water they want to drink, only later the menu will be presented. Because water drinking is essential and they should be applauded for it. And it means the guests can order high-quality wine and enjoy it!

I do not want to talk about over-concentrated wines that are on the edge of drinkability. I want to promote those wines that are excellent, well-made, either white or red, that have become great wines with balance (and in some cases combining this with a higher alcohol level). These wines merit to be praised and promoted. Many of these producers work with lesser interventions in nature (it is impossible to generalize here) because they pay much attention to the quality of their wine, which means paying attention to the quality of the vineyard as well.

All this is also a matter of taste. Some wine lovers prefer fresher wines with more acidity, racy, and pure and they have ample choice. Wine is a very complex matter and it is difficult to talk about wine as one style. There are hundreds of styles and nobody has the right to say that one style is the best one. The only thing that I would like to bring forward is that some wines have arrived at what I call a level of greatness, thanks to all efforts by producers, consortia, etcetera. It has been the most important trend in winemaking of the last 30 years and I consider it important to recognize this. This trend, in combination with climate change, has caused higher alcohol levels, but the quality of the wines has increased. So I consider it not correct to criticize this trend and the high-quality wines that we can find everywhere. Do these wines have a problem? I don’t think so, because the market demand is high. It also means that those drinkers searching for lower alcohol wines but who also appreciate these wines, may have a problem. As I said before, drinking water before and during the enjoying of the wine is one solution and the amount of wine is the responsibility of each individual person. But it seems that those people who would enjoy these wines in theory, now are reluctant to enjoy them because of the small indication on the (back-)label. It is a pity. Is it a real problem or maybe in some cases only a mindset problem?

POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS

Producers are looking for solutions. One solution is earlier harvesting and producing higher yields. Some producers have changed their quality concept, left the idea of the highest possible quality from their vineyards, and harvest earlier and with higher yields, creating wines with more acidity and lower alcohol levels. Many of these wines are drinkable but in my view have lost their greatness. Other producers are looking for other vineyard positions at higher and cooler places. In regions such as Oregon (USA) or New Zealand this is possible but in densely populated regions such as Burgundy, Piemonte, or Tuscany this option does not exist or at extremely high costs. Also using wild yeasts can help in having lower alcohols because such a ‘wild’ fermentation makes for less efficient conversions which leads to lower alcohol levels. In California, it is known that some producers even add water to their Zinfandel, in order to create a lower alcohol level. To me this option is very strange: why pay so much effort for producing great wine and then dilute it with water? Producing higher yields would be more practical, or, another solution might be picking the grapes earlier to have lower alcohol and more acidity and add some sugar in order to give the wine more alcohol and body: I am not in favor of this solution as the best and most delicious wines are made without adding anything; when additives are added, such a wine might become one of those lacking balance. Finally, there are also technical options such as reverse osmosis, which seems to be quite costly but can be a solution to lower the alcohol levels of wine.

A BETTER SOLUTION: BLENDING WITH INTELLIGENCE

I think there is another solution: blending (with intelligence). In his fabulous article in Decanter ***, English wine writer Andrew Jefford argues how greatness in wines relates to ripeness, depth of flavors and higher alcohol. I agree with him, but I have some questions about his suggestions of canopy management, soil restoration, quick harvesting, etcetera, as possible solutions because I consider them as part of modern winemaking techniques which easily can lead to higher alcohol levels. I think blending can be a better solution. (Jefford’s article is a great read which I recommend to every wine-lover).

When I talk about blending I do not refer to the big mass of cheap wines, vin de table or vino da tavola, available for small money from many shelves. Often they are made with the leftovers and this is not a concept for quality. Blending is a very serious art and needs to be done with intelligence. If done with intelligence it can lead to some of the most wonderful wines on the planet. Many of France’s and Spain’s most prestigious wines are blends: Bordeaux, Rhône, Languedoc, Ribera del Duero, Rioja. And there is a reason for that: producers in these regions have understood that different grape varieties have different qualities and some varieties need to be ‘corrected’ with other varieties in order to obtain the highest quality level. Taste is a concept with various aspects: perfumes, acidity, mouthfeel, elegance, fine tannins, mature fruit, glycerine, etcetera. In many French wine regions blending wines is considered normal. One of the best examples of a successfully blended wine is Vinho Verde, Portugal’s famous white wine: it is a wonderful wine and can be produced from a great number of indigenous varieties. It boasts only 9% alcohol and is a great refresher in the hot summer. I don’t know any white wine of 9% which is so joyful as Vinho Verde and still shows such complexity. Of course, there are several factors here: the choice of the varietals, which normally don’t give a high sugar level, and the Atlantic climate of the region which favors more acidic, fresh wines.

Before 100 years, blending wines or producing wines from many different grapes, was normal in almost all European vineyards and for another reason: due to the lack of technology in the cellar (no temperature control) the producers hoped that when harvesting 10 grapes, at least 5 or 7 would be mature and in the blend, the mature grapes would ‘correct’ those that were not ripe yet with a better wine as result.

SITUATION TODAY

Today the arguments of 100 years ago are not valid anymore, but blending is still an option. I think that for those Zinfandel producers blending would be a better option instead of adding water: they could blend with a low-alcohol wine and it even may be white (think of low-alcohol producing Ribolla Gialla). It would give the wine more complexity, more tension, less alcohol, and the wine would also work as more natural. I also think it should not be a taboo to have a small percentage of white wine in a red wine blend. Take Chianti or some Rhône wines that in the past were blended – legally – with a small percentage of white wine.
Blending gives a wine with more complexity and when composed with much care and intelligence it can be wonderful. Maybe a blended wine needs to age a bit longer before arriving at its best drinkable moment, but this can be considered as positive. Blending wines is the best way of correcting wines, and helps to avoid other ‘corrections‘ such as adding sugar, acidity, or other (legally allowed) additives. Because, and this is important: to obtain that balance of greatness, of which I talked above, a wine needs to be pure and purity can be best achieved by blending because then the wine remains pure, without additives.

THE PROBLEM OF TODAY

Many producers in countries like Italy, Slovenia, Switzerland, Germany, but also wine regions such as Oregon (USA) or Central Otago (New Zealand) tend to produce monovarietal wines, but try to correct the wines by adding some acidity, or other stuff that is legally allowed (think of arabic gum, saccharides, etc). All that can be avoided by just blending the wine with some low-alcohol variety and the wine is more natural.

LOWER ALCOHOL IN A NATURAL WAY

The most important point is that when blended with intelligence, a wine can eventually have a lower alcohol level, but still preserve these complex qualities. A well-made blend can be very smooth and complex at the same time, qualities that we use to see in wines with higher alcohol. I’m not sure if this aspect of blending is taken into consideration by producers, but I would strongly recommend this.

IT CAN HELP PRESERVE AUTHENTIC VARIETIES!

In the past, especially after the Phylloxera, many grape varieties have been abandoned because they were considered of low interest. Today some of these varieties should be of renewed interest because they can help the producers to achieve an interesting wine with lower alcohol. There are several of such varieties that are known, some are still much produced, others are almost abandoned. Think of Ribolla Gialla in Friuli, which gives low-alcohol wines but adds a huge amount of glycerine and acidity to a wine and can help to create tension in the taste which makes the wines wonderful.

My white wine is a good example: it is produced by Šibav winery in Goriška Brda, Slovenia. Today, also in Slovenia, most wines are monovarietal but the tradition was to make blends. The wine is produced with Sauvignonasse 50%, Rebula/Ribolla Gialla 30%, Pinot Blanc 15% and Pinot Gris 5%. The success of the wine is especially due to the combination of Sauvignonasse, an aromatic wine, with higher alcohol, and Rebula, a variety that never gives high alcohol, but much character, taste and high acidity. This contrast makes the wine very attractive. The wine is made more complex and smooth by adding Pinot Blanc, which gives great wines in the area of Collio, Brda, Colli Orientali and Isonzo: it has character but remains very elegant. I am convinced that the wine wins much complexity and character with it. Finally, 5% of Pinot Gris is added which contributes to even more complexity of the wine. The good news: the wine has 12,5% alc.vol., but tasters often guess the alcohol higher because the mouthfeel of the wine gives a stronger impression. It has very subtle hints of butter, salt, minerals, and white flowers but is not too big and filling, its subtle character and freshness remain. I am not telling that this wine has greatness, but it has fine, subtle flavors that make it an attractive drink. What I have learned by the production of this wine is that blending can also lead to interesting wines with lower alcohol. This wine has convinced me to write this text. Because blending can be an important solution for making high-quality wines and avoid too high alcohol levels.

*In this article I’m not talking about taxes: higher alcohol wines are taxed higher and this can increase the price of a bottle. The tax systems are different from country to country but generally the higher the alcohol, the higher the tax on the wine.

**Another problem is incorrect labeling. In most countries a discrepancy of 0,5% is allowed, it means that a wine of 12,5% might be somewhere between 12 and 13% (there are also countries with a wider allowance, allowing producers to put 1% or 1,5% different from the real percentage). But there have been cases where a producer was found to have labeled 12,5 where a wine was 14 or more, etcetera. Such behavior is not correct and sanctions are a logical step. The first objective of wine labels is to inform consumers. Australia allows a difference of 1,5% which in my opinion is a too big discrepancy, it can create confusion among consumers.

***Andrew Jefford, ‘BIG and beautiful’ (in Decanter, December 2018)

Paul Balke

Sometimes life can take unexpected turns and shake you completely and you can’t have any influence on it. I have many such experiences. Like most of you, I am sitting at home now due to the corona-virus. I can’t visit any place unless it’s a supermarket or pharmacy. The only thing is that I am locked up far away from any social contact, so it is lonely here. It is living like a hermit but not voluntarily. I have much experience with situations where life takes an unexpected turn. Let me share one experience with you:

Many years ago, when I was researching in Piemonte, I decided to drive to Liguria and visit Dolceacqua. It was August and very hot. Even the Italian family of my agriturismo was suffering the heat. I took the highway to the south. At that moment I did not know yet that the day would take a different turn.

Vermentino is one of my preferred white wines. They can be wonderful, with some herbal or fine fruit perfumes and a taste that is not too dominant but so elegant and slightly mineral with a long finish! I guided my old Citroen through the turns of the Turin-Savona highway in the Ligurian Alps. At some places, it looks like Italian spaghetti, especially at one place where the highway makes a pirouette, partly inside and partly around a mountain. Italian engineers are very skilled and I cannot deny my admiration for that. And even in the steepest corners, some Alfa was passing with great speed. But I laughed at them because I was soon going to enjoy the delights of Liguria. Dolceacqua is a beautiful small village in the Val Nervia, not far from Ventimiglia. It has a medieval bridge with a view on the steep vineyards around. And there I will have a delicious Vermentino! I am getting thirsty.

Along the coast runs the via Aurelia. This highway with endless kilometers of turns, tunnels, and bridges is the only transit route through Liguria from France to Tuscany. I was not the only one. The highway was filled with a long and slow-moving traffic jam. Thousands of cars, all on the same road. It was hot, so I opened the windows but that didn’t help much. The asphalt was returning the heat and the driving cars didn’t make it better. Although driving was not the right term, it looked more like a procession of snails. Sometimes we even reached fifty kilometers/hour, but later we slowed down or stopped completely and then it drove on.
The slopes around were barren and dead with occasional olive trees. So many of them are never harvested because nobody wants to do it. And if someone might get the idea to do it: also that is impossible because it is forbidden. Italy is sometimes a crazy country.

Soon I would be in Dolceacqua and taste the wines with a fascinating panorama across the sea. And maybe we will eat also cappon magro, that famous, rare dish from Liguria. I thought of that delicious Ligurian olive oil from Taggiasca olives. A delight, one of the best in Italy. This part of Liguria is called ‘Liguria di ponente‘ as opposed to the east which is ‘Levante‘ because the ‘Ponente’ side sees the sun coming up, the other part sees the sunset. I made a count: it took me an hour and a half to get from Savona to Albenga. It means I will not be in time for lunch. My plan is getting ruined! But things would go worse.
Photo: steep vineyard terraces in Liguria

I had made an appointment with a company in Dolceacqua, situated high on the steep slopes with panoramas of incredible beauty. They also produce this rare variety, Pigato, a local clone of Vermentino. Pigato is a little stronger than Vermentino, with more body. Later I visited the family and fell in love with the area. Liguria has a unique charm. I still have a high estimation for all those Ligurian families who work heroically on their steep hills, dotted with terraces. They don’t earn much money. Often they continue because they own the land of their family. And sometimes they have a hard time surviving. Modern consumers should appreciate these people who work so hard for a small income. Logically, their wines are not cheap: they have to work for a tiny quantity of wine and that has its cost. But these wines are authentic and far from the industrial stuff which is on many shelves. Or should the wine production of Liguria disappear? It might be the ultimate consequence of the attitude of the modern consumers. Modern consumerism is breaking down centuries-old patterns which have been build up with much effort and skill and with care for the land.

Now the highway runs into the mountains with some tunnels. The long traffic jam continues, many kilometers long. I am sweating like a beast, just like the Italian family in a FIAT left of me and a Dutch family in a Peugeot in front. The pace is extremely slow. How annoying that I can’t call my relations to tell them about my delay. With this speed, I will not arrive before the evening! At least if my car stays working because it is old and not prepared for staying in the heat. I need to drive faster to cool the motor. I should control the water level regularly but I don’t do it because I don’t want to lose my place in the traffic. But this should not last too long.

We drive into the next tunnel. This one is a bit longer, two kilometers it says. And again, the traffic comes to a standstill. The highway consists of two separate carriageways, in opposite directions, each with its bridges and tunnels. What is this? Thousands of people are suffering the heat. Children get bored and start crying. And one should not get a heart attack here, because there would not be a sufficient rescue service. I start longing for that glass of Vermentino!

But one thing I noted: before entering the tunnel I saw that there was hardly any traffic on the other side of the highway. Which is strange. But I did not think about it.

I had advanced some hundred meters into the tunnel and we are standing still. Before and after me long rows of cars, for many kilometers. I think of Dolceacqua, that place with an ancient history. Its Rossese was loved by Napoleon and Rossese di Dolceacqua is a DOC.

It takes now five minutes and we are still standing. Then, to my great surprise, I see a few cars driving in the distance, but backward! A large van is moving backward. He is now standing diagonal on the road. What is this? In Italy, you can experience everything, but I had never seen anything like this before! It makes no sense. The tunnel is two kilometers long and is completely full of cars.

Far ahead of me I see someone getting out. Are they crazy? The van is standing in a strange position. And someone else gets out, and more persons. They are right. It is cool in the tunnel, cooler than outside and I get out of the car too. I look forward and backward: long rows of cars.

‘Fuoco!’ calls someone. I look forward, but I don’t see anything. A few people have walked out of the tunnel. Fire? Nothing to see, but more people are coming. A woman with her baby in her arms leaves the tunnel, crying. A father with two children, more people. A stream of people is coming. Is there a fire in the tunnel? A few cars are still trying to maneuver backward. Do they want to escape the fire? I don’t understand. Because I don’t see any fire either, but very slowly a slightly burning smell comes through. An older Italian says ‘Fuoco! un camione!’

So there is fire! A truck has caught fire. This was the last thing I wanted to experience on this day! A tunnel of two kilometers long, full of cars, and a truck is on fire! This is a potential mega-disaster, it makes me think of the big fires in the Gotthard and Mont Blanc tunnels. Two mega-disasters with many casualties. And now this could be a new disaster of the same dimension? NO! I do not want to believe it!

People are walking past my car, men, women, a few young people are running with fear on their faces. Someone supports his older father. An elderly woman walks out of the tunnel as quickly as possible.

As I walk out of the tunnel, I notice that behind us still, many cars are trying to drive forward. It makes no sense. The tunnel is blocked and we need another solution. It is chaos. I decide to indicate to the cars that it makes no sense. Standing in the middle of the highway, just outside the tunnel, I make some gesture to all cars behind us to make them stop moving. And, indeed, cars are now standing still and waiting. In the meantime, there are still people walking out of the tunnel. Outside the tunnel, some grown-up men are standing and crying. Something must be going on over there.

A woman with a baby in her arms comes out of the tunnel, exhausted, crying. It is only now that I notice that black smoke is coming from the other tunnel. It is increasing. There is no traffic anymore coming from the opposite side, only smoke.

A massive crowd is now standing on our side near the entrance of the tunnel. A few men are still crying. Other people are sitting on the guard rail. Others are talking or try to make a call on their cellphone. It is clear that many of them are shocked, or stressed, or both. And it is very hot, the sun shines on the stones and the asphalt. At least my car can cool down a little now.

The smoke from the opposite tunnel becomes heavier but I don’t understand how this is possible: if there is a problem in our tunnel, how can the smoke then come out of the other tunnel? How is this possible? I know that Italy knows many surprises but this one is really strange. Until today nobody has ever explained this to me.

A siren sounds in the distance. An ambulance is coming from Albenga on our road, trying to pass the long rows of cars. It seems not quite efficient because the other side of the highway is empty: it could move quickly on that side. Cars are slowly moving aside. I gesture to the people next to me that we have to put our car aside. They understand and we walk back into the tunnel and put our car aside. But not everyone has understood this and I wonder how the ambulance should get on further. Extremely slowly the ambulance comes forward and drives past us with the sirens at the highest volume.

The crowd is watching the smoke, many people are emotional. Some Dutch people are on the way from Tuscany to France. They swear a little and hope that they can continue quickly to their holiday address. Their planning is completely confused, and a Dutchman is not happy when such a thing happens. The Italians stand together, give each other some water or wine and wait for what is happening. Some children are walking up the hill. Every culture has its way to react to setbacks. Italians are different than the Dutch.

And still, people are coming out of the tunnel. They had to walk almost two kilometers. A few are coughing. Do they have breathing problems? Is there anyway smoke in our tunnel? I still don’t see any smoke coming from our tunnel.

I look around. I start to walk a little away from the tunnel entrance along the long line of cars and make some pictures of the smoke coming out of the other tunnel. What should you do? Slowly I realize that me too I was impressed. Emotional is not the right word. But somewhat tense, that yes. Why do I always have to experience this kind of thing?

Many people are sitting down next to their car. Most drivers have switched off their cars, others keep the engine running for the airco. Our energy has to be wasted, whether it’s summer or winter, it doesn’t matter, it has to be. And, some car comes out of the other, smoking tunnel. I still don’t get it. I walk back to the beginning of the tunnel and talk with some Italians. They are from Genoa and are quite impressed with the event. There is a huge crowd standing. There is a connection to the other part of the highway, but it is closed and nobody seems to open it. There is no coordination, no rescue team, no police are arriving for at least two hours. Thousands of cars, stranded in the glowing heat. Tourists, international travelers, Italian families, older people. And nobody can leave.
After some time the ambulance returns and drives the opposite way, again moving slowly through the many thousands of cars. Imagine there was somebody seriously hurt! In that case, they might open the barrier to the other side and they can hurry to the hospital! There are two or three people in it, so apparently, there were injuries. It is a sign that something is going on at the front of the tunnel. But I still have to guess what it might be. From this side, we can see nothing. It is quite bizarre to see the ambulance slowly moving between the rows of cars where the other road would be easy to open. Probably there is no life-threatening situation.

We have been standing there for three hours, many thousand people along the long rows of cars and finally the staff of the Italian highway opened the plateau to the other side. Strangely many thousands of people were left there in the heat, with no rescue services, no service at all, no police to coordinate the situation. Nothing. This is a major highway, the only possible route for all international traffic to pass Liguria. It is in the mountains, a wild area, no way to walk away to some town or the coast. But now, as if they feel the hurry, the staff is opening the crash barriers very fast and the police starts to regulate the traffic. One by one all cars from the tunnel can leave the place through the plateau to the highway in the opposite direction. Happy to leave this inferno. I drive backward for some hundred meters and turn the car onto the highway towards Albenga. Happy that I can leave. Away from the heat, the chaos, the smoke.

I did not understand everything that happened, especially the fire from one tunnel, coming out of the other tunnel. But it also looks as if there was not much coordination of the emergency services and they are not well organized. At least they started very late and we did not see any police for three hours. There was no good communication either: in a situation like this, it can make the difference between life and death and the ambulance had to struggle through kilometers of traffic jams from Albenga instead of taking the free road.

Once in Albenga, I take the local road to Savona. Suddenly there is no plan at all. It is not possible to reach Dolceacqua now, because the normal roads will be terribly full today. I tell my relations that we have to postpone our meeting. But their answer is very relaxed. ‘There will be another time!’ I like this. Also, this is typically Italian: they have this kind of relaxed way to accept life and the many uncomfortable situations of life. And they can handle it. I admire the Italians for this.

But what about Vermentino? Well, yes, close to Albenga I found a small company and I tasted their Vermentino. Finally, fresh Vermentino!! Never it tasted better! I love this wine. Cristal clear, elegant, not too heavy, and so fine smooth finish with a light mineral accent. A lovely wine.

But one thing I know for sure: I will never again take the highway in Italy on a Saturday in August. That lesson I have learned. In the evening the fire is on the TV: there are a few persons with breathing problems but not too serious. That’s all. Only that smoke! There was no explanation about it. How is it possible that a car in our tunnel catches fire and the smoke comes out from the other tunnel? In Italy, you can experience a lot, but it is not always possible to understand everything. And he Italians know this. And life sometimes takes another turn than you expect.

Are you interested in some good Vermentino or Pigato? Try one of these (this is just a small selection and not complete):

• Maria Donata Bianchi, family company with old vineyards high above Diano Marina. Wines of great elegance and drinkability.
• Lupi, an old wine trading house, seated in the beautiful town of Pieve di Teco. Great Pigato, especially Pigato Vignamare is worth seeking out.
• Ramoino, small producer from Sarola near Imperia with a good, typical Vermentino.
• Berry and Berry, owned by passionate oenologue and consultant Alex Berriolo. He has small quantities from his old vineyards of 25-50 years and these are remarkable wines.
• Terre Bianche, producer of refined Vermentino and Pigato
• Poggio dei Gorleri, good Vermentino
• Biovio, good Vermentino and Pigato
• Bruna, makes excellent Pigato in the Val d’Arroscia
• Maccario Dringenberg, makes good Vermentino
• Laura Aschero, makes good Vermentino
• Rocche del Gatto, where Fausto de Andreis makes very long-aging and solid Vermentino and Pigato

In Pornassio area:

• Eredi Guglierame, small, historical winery owned by the brothers Agostino and Raffaele Guglierame. Good Ormeasco di Pornassio.
• Fontanacota, created by Marina Berta in 2001 with vineyards partly near Imperia and partly in the area of Pornassio.
• Cascina Nirasca, owned by two young winemakers who wanted to create their own experience in the area of Pornassio.

Paul Balke, 

Years ago I read the novel by Nobel-awarded José Saramago, ‘Blindness‘. It is a very impressive novel in the typical Saramago-style, with sometimes page-long sentences, and no paragraphs or quotation marks. It tells the story of an epidemy hitting a country and it spares no one. It makes one think of the old story of the plague but also of the Corona-virus. Saramago tells a disturbing story: authorities are confused and do not know how to act and the country ends up in chaos and criminals get almost free-play. Saramago’s novel gives also a powerful vision of the human spirit that’s bound both by weakness and strength. You can argue with Saramago because he is quite negative. He represents a negative vision of human nature. In fact, I would rather be more positive but his message is a warning about how humans can change behavior in difficult times.

Who knows what the future brings? At this moment I am in Piemonte, in Italy, living in quarantaine. It’s not officially locked in the house, because I am ok but there is no possibility to go out, so practically it is. And I cannot leave for the Netherlands as was planned. I am staying now in a small house in the Alta Langa, a wonderful region in South Piemonte with hills going up to almost 900 meters. I feel very safe here because in the province of Cuneo there is a relatively small amount of contracted people and to my knowledge no such cases nearby. The situation in the Netherlands is worse.

In other parts of Italy, the epidemy is a tragedy. Especially in Bergamo and other places in Lombardy, where a big part of the older people are hit by the virus and it caused many casualties. Italy is in shock and all commercial activities are closed. Today the government came with more rigid measures.

Quarantaine means a quiet, undisturbed life in the countryside. But it is very isolated because there are not many people around and those who are, are trying to avoid any contact. Social life is impossible. The only connection with the world is the internet.

Once in two days, I can go to a small village at 6 km distance for some shopping of the essential necessities, but it is not allowed to leave the house for any other goal. Life is becoming tough now. I am happy that spring is arriving and warmer temperatures because this place is unbearable with cold.

And how is Italy reacting to the situation? Do we see Saramago-like chaos? No. On the contrary, I feel that the Italian government has reacted well, after the first doubts when the situation was not yet all clear. And the Italians too. Generally, Italian people have much fear for everything, also for being ill. It is the reason why the pharmacies have a good business because for every little cough or cold people go for some medication. The use of medications is the highest in the world. But, on the other hand, Italian people know well how to handle setbacks. They remain quiet and are not directly disturbed. They have learned to continue to manage their life, with their normal humor and spirit. It opens the eye on another side of the Italian mentality. A very positive side.

And now for me? What to do? That is a good question. The only thing I can do is work. I am finishing my next book and hope it can be printed in 2 or 3 months. That will be an important moment because it is the result of many years’ work. But other jobs and projects are canceled and there is no money coming in. I have invested much in my upcoming book which needs to be printed in May and therefore I do not have much money left. What if this quarantaine takes many months? That would be very problematic. And what to do then? To this question, I have no answer.

Paul Balke, Alta Langa, Piemonte

Much of Liguria’s wine landscapes have not yet been discovered, unlike those of Piemonte and Tuscany, even if they are more or less situated in between.

Like Piemonte also Liguria boasts unique grape varieties, historical vineyards, and a lot of original wines. A fantastic wine region that is full of remarkable surprises. But unlike Piemonte, most of Liguria’s wines are still waiting for discovery by a bigger audience. It has not to do with the quality but with the fact that all wine producers are small, they have to work on small parcels often on steep slopes which makes working extremely difficult. Visiting the wine producers in Liguria can give a great satisfaction, because they will show their wines with much pleasure to everybody. Wines that are only possible with much handcraft on steep, terraced vineyards. This is what makes them unique. And still many wines are very reasonably priced. It gives you a feeling of admiration for the producers who continue this hard life out of love for their small parcels, which they inherited from their parents and grandparents. In these times with so much easy food, often industrially processed and easy accessible through big supermarkets, it is worth realizing that some of the best food and wine is only possible when people persist in having a hard life, which is not well paid and with no other satisfaction than that they can continue to produce the work that has begun by their ancestors.

Liguria represents a very important part of our wine culture. But a part that tends to be forgotten: the part of handcraft, hardworking families on small scale working for a small profit. Never will you find any of these wines in your supermarket because production is so small that professional distribution is almost impossible (most supermarkets are filled with wines produced with mechanical means on big flat spaces, where handcraft has been reduced to the minimum). Only small importers, who are as crazy as the producers themselves, will continue to sell Ligurian wines. Such fatigue, such hard existence used to be a normal situation for every farmer family in France, Germany, Italy, etc, but by now this has been forgotten in most agricultural regions. And it is also forgotten by most consumers who are looking for something easy drinking for accessible prices.

Liguria’s (wine) culture is historically related with Piemonte, especially West Liguria (Liguria Ponente). Very probably the origin of the much loved Dolcetto from Piemonte is the area of Pornassio. Along the old pathways through the high Langhe hills from Liguria to Piemonte, there are old existing vineyards of Dolcetto, near Cortemilia for example: a proof that this hypothesis might be true. In earlier centuries these were the salt roads, where salt and other commercial ware were taken by foot across the mountains and probably also grape varieties.

The steepness of the soils is not the only problem for the producers, it is also the rocks structure and the physical difficulties to preserve the terraces. It is logical that many vineyards have been abandoned, but near Dolceacqua, Imperia, Pieve di Teco and Pornassio there are much vineyards still in production.
This wine region in Liguria is such a contrast with the mostly flat vineyards in nearby Provence and even with the hill vineyards in Piemonte. And still many wines from Provence and Piemonte fetch higher prices than those from Liguria. It almost gives a sense of injustice. Yes, also in Piemonte producers have a hard work on the hills, but in Piemonte there is more mechanization possible for treatments of vineyards and other proceedings. In Liguria often even small tractors cannot enter.

But the rocky soils give the local grape varieties excellent conditions: first of all Vermentino. Vermentino is one of my preferred white wines from Italy. It gives its best results at vineyards with view on the Mediterranean.They offer delicious, easy drinking wines, with depth and a wealth of different flavors, with some tropical accents, mint or white almond, often very refined and finishing with a fine mineral touch. Often they have a lengthy finish, without being too dominant and maintain their elegance. There is much production of Vermentino along Italy’s west coast, in Sardinia, in France and in Spain. But for me many of the best Vermentino are from Liguria, especially from the area’s of Imperia and Dolceacqua because of the combination of depth, elegance and refined minerality.
Still there is more. Pigato is a local version of Vermentino, but with slightly different leaf shapes and a more intense wine style. It matures best at higher positioned vineyards. Genetically Pigato is identical to Vermentino, but the wines can be more strong have some nuttiness and need more aging. There are even producers who produce very strong versions with the idea of longer aging.

Red wines are also present. Most unusual is Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC, only produced in two small valleys near Ventimiglia, rather light colored with expressive aroma’s, herbal notes and a mineral finish. Its taste is very specific but there exists a group of passionate Rossese-lovers. Very special too is Ormeasco di Pornassio DOC. The wine can only be produced in a mountain region in the Valle Arroscia around the small hamlet of Pornassio at heights between 400 and 800 meters above sea level. We are at ca 30 kilometers distance from the sea and climate is very different, more alpine with sometimes some fresh, warm air coming in from the sea but also much rainfall and some frost in spring. The wine can be fine, fruity, dark, with hints of strawberries, cherries, marmelade of prunes, violet, nettles and works more elegant than Dolcetto from Piemonte, which often has a more tannic style. The ‘Superiore‘ version is more intense colored with also more strong aroma’s and mature fruit, dark forest fruit, some oak and a balsamic note.

Ormeasco is less structured than Piemonte’s Dolcetto but more easy drinking. There are also the versions Passito and Passito liquoroso. And when made as rosé it is called Ormeasco Sciac-trà DOC (a dry rosé wine, other than the sweet Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà, a rare sweet wine).

Many of these vineyards were created by the Benedictines in early Middle Age, although it is also possible that the origins go back to Roman times. It is sure that the Romans started viticulture at many places along the Ligurian coast. Maybe also the Benedictines were responsible for introducing Dolcetto in Piemonte, first in the Alta Langa and later also in the rest of south Piemonte.

Granaccia is Liguria’s version of Grenache, often it has a more light character than Grenache from Provence.

In short: Liguria is a most special and characteristic part of Italy’s wine world. Here no big companies with cellars like cathedrals but small tiny plots, and many passionate family producers working hard for a small income.

These producers merit our appreciation because they persist to continue the wine production in these heroic conditions and some wines that took my attention :

• Maria Donata Bianchi, small company with old vineyards high above Diano Marina. From vineyards with a mixed soil of sands and clay they produce some wonderful wines. Winemaker Marta Trevia is one of the few winemakers from Liguria with a master in oenology. Her experience certainly helps to improve the wines, which have been of high standard for a long period. A winery to follow:
  • Vermentino 2017, wonderful and very elegant wine, with hints of fine tropical fruit, mint and intense but refined fruit in the finish
• Lupi, an old wine trading house, with seat in the beautiful town of Pieve di Teco. The winery is gradually in a transformation process from negociant into producer of own produced grapes. It is always a delight to spend some time with Massimo Lupi. He is a passionate Liguria promotor and has affected many others, among them some of his colleagues and his enthusiasm certainly works. He not only transmits his enthusiasm and passion on everybody but pays much attention and time to everybody who wants to spend some time to learn about Liguria:
  • Pigato Petraie 2017: nice, intense and typical Pigato
  • Pigato Vignamare 2012, fantastic aged version, it shows the potential of this grape
• Ramoino, small producer from Sarola near Imperia with vineyards in the Valle Arroscia:
  • Montenero 2017: a good and typical Vermentino
  • Rossese di Dolceacqua Serro di Becchi 2017: fine and pure style of Rossese
• Innocenzo Turco, small winery from Quiliano in the Valle Arroscia with old history going back to 19^th century. They have old terraced vineyards:
  • Granaccia, Capuccini 2016: fine and elegant style of Granaccia
• Berry and Berry, owned by passionate oenologue and consultant Alex Berriolo. He has some very old vineyards of 25-50 years old and manages to produce some remarkable wines. A great guy and a very creative winemaker to follow. Fantastic to see how passionate guys like Alex create new life in this old ambience where for long periods nothing new happened. He decided to leave all existing DOCs and IGTs in order to concentrate on the wines he wants to make:
  • Poggio del Santo 2016 (a 100% sangiovese) a pure and elegant wine, this has nothing with Tuscany, it shows the elegance and the typical terroir of Liguria.
• Eredi Guglierame, small historical winery owned by the brothers Agostino and Raffaele Guglierame. They have cellars in an old historical mansion high in the Pornassio hills. Their vineyards are from the old property of Marquis Scarella, their ancestor. They started bottling their wine as early as 1958, which is very early for Italian standards. As can be expected they are specialist in Ormeasco di Pornassio: Ormeasco di Pornassio 2015
• Fontanacota, created by Marina Berta in 2001 with vineyards partly near Imperia and partly in the area of Pornassio. Ormeasco di Pornassio Superiore 2015
• Cascina Nirasca, owned by two young winemakers who wanted to create their own experience in this region. They have 5 hectares in the area of Pornassio, divided among 22 different parcels.

Ormeasco di Pornassio 2017

More information about Ormeasco di Pornassio DOC:
http://www.assovini.it/italia/liguria/item/263-pornassio-o-ormeasco-di-pornassio-doc

Many thanks to Massimo Lupi for organizing a fantastic tour in the area of Pornassio, Pieve di Teco, Imperia and Dolceacqua. Many thanks to all wineries: Maria Donata Bianchi, Lupi, Berry and Berry, Cascina Nirasca, Eredi Ing. Guglierame, Fontanacota, Innocenzo Turco, Ramoino.

It is the time of the year we dedicate time to fine wine. The right moment to know more about Aglianico, one of the world’s iconic grapes because from this variety some of the most precious long-lived red wines are created. For those who live in South Italy this seems so obvious but for a big part of the wine world Aglianico still is just ‘one-of-the-many-varieties’, maybe known to experts, but it’s full potential is still not completely discovered. Time to know more about TAURASI DOCG: one of Italy’s finest wines. Taurasi DOCG is maybe the most distinguished expression of Aglianico so it is important to understand the reasons why.

Aglianico flowers very early in the season and the Aglianico of Taurasi is the last of all Italian grapes to be harvested, sometimes even until half November. It’s berries are quite small and contain a lot of acidity and a high polyphenol content so there is always the risk of making a wine with too excessive tannins, containing also much alcohol and acidity, a wine that can be undrinkable for decades. Nowadays producers look for more balance between tannins, acidity and alcohol. Therefore producers dedicate more attention to obtain healthy fruit from the vineyards and use softer pressing and shorter maceration times during fermentation to avoid too much tannin extract but the wine still needs its aging period. They also diminished the use of new barriques and more often age the wine in more neutral Slavonian oak.

In fact Aglianico for Taurasi needs a slightly longer aging period than Nebbiolo for Barolo but then the wine can be preserved for long periods of 25 or sometimes even 50 years or longer. That is: if the wine is made from the best grapes of the best vineyards in good, healthy vintages.

Taurasi is a wine region situated in Avellino province, alias Irpinia. Irpinia is for experts South Italy’s most distinguished wine district and Taurasi it’s most important wine. Taurasi DOCG can be produced in 17 municipalities at a height between ca 350 and 800 meters above sea level. Taurasi DOCG is produced from Aglianico grapes with the possibility to add up to 15% of other grapes but many producers continue with 100% Aglianico. Taurasi must be aged at least three years before it can be sold and must be aged at least one year in wood. Taurasi Riserva must be aged at least four years of which 18 months in wood.

Until 1990 there was only one producer for Taurasi: Mastroberardino winery and they have done a great deal to develop the wine and create much knowledge about the wine worldwide. The 1968 Taurasi of Mastroberardino became legendary and did a lot to establish the fame of Taurasi as a great wine and wine region. Nowadays there are some 200 producers of Taurasi, most of them boutique wineries, and some of them are offering excellent quality too, others are developing and new names are on the market soon so there will be much news to discover in the area soon (see my list below).

Taurasi can be such a great wine! When young it can offer black cherry, some violet or spice, often in combination with quite strong tannins. When aged the wine will offer it’s real potential and then it presents such refined fruit in a wonderful elegant style and length. This is really one of the most characterful and at the same time very subtle wines, offering flavors of cherry, combined with a rich pattern of flavors from chocolate and spice up to pepper, truffle, leather, tobacco, and all in such a wonderful, fine balance. The wine always has a good acidity and firm tannins, which create the right potential for aging and create wonderful harmonic and incredbile long-lived wines.

Soils in this area consist of a mix of clay and limestone with sometimes a sand component, but most important is the top-layer of vulcanic soil which can be found in many places in Taurasi district. This gives the wine this extra accent and it allows the plant to survive diseases which can thrive in other areas.

SPECIAL CLIMATE:

Maybe the most special aspect of this part of Irpinia is the climate: we are deep south in Italy, at the height of Naples but still Irpinia has a cool climate that is more to compare with Piemonte than with Naples. The mountains in the west moderate the sea influence and create this quite rare climatic situation. The high difference between day and night temperatures contributes to maintaining good acidity levels in the grapes. As a consequence the harvest of Taurasi DOCG is usually Italy’s last harvest.

Another special aspect of Taurasi is the presence of ancient vines which survived the phylloxera disease in the beginning of the 20th century. Some of those plants are more than 250 years old, still healthy and used for Taurasi DOCG. Something really unique in the wine world.

And Irpinia is mountainous so many vineyards are high up on the hills of the Calore valley, in a very complex mosaic of hills and mountains. Much discussions are going about the height of the vineyards. Officially it is allowed to produce Taurasi DOCG from 350 m above sea level, but some sustain that it has become too low for Taurasi DOCG as climate change also here brings some change. This discussion is not settled yet. But those Taurasi wines from higher parcels up to 800 meter above sea level very clearly have more acidity and need a longer aging period.

One of the most subtle, wonderful and characterful wines of the wine world is Taurasi. And the positive news is: it is still relatively undiscovered the prices are still pleasantly low. The other positive news is that this wine can age for so many years in your cellar! You really can forget it for two decades and then take the bottle from the dust and enjoy an incredible fresh and lively wine.

NB: This story is not finished yet: I am continuing my search for great Aglianico wines, so in the next period I will publish a more in-depth view of this very interesting wine.

TASTING NOTES  (NB THIS PART IS NOT COMPLETE, I NEED TO RESEARCH MORE CELLARS !!)

• Perillo Taurasi DOCG 2007
  Small cellar producing Taurasi from old vines in Castelfranci. The wine is 10 years old but gives an extremely fresh and lively impression.
  Perfume: dark fruit, fresh blackberries
  Taste: a combination of black fruit, cedar, tobacco, fine tannins and a wonderful length ( Compliment to the winery to age the wines that long: this is a fantastic way to show the real potential of great Taurasi wines.)
• Quintodecimo Taurasi DOCG 2012
  It cannot be denied that this is a very serious wine, in fact the most expensive Taurasi at the time. Very fine red wine offering an impressive lenght and style. Professor Moio is an eloquent speaker and did not fail to inspire me to learn more about the wines of South Italy.
  The perfume offers beautiful refined and intense aromas of black fruit.
  In the taste there are notes of blackberries, dark fruit, cassis, tobacco, plum and in a most elegant way. The wine is extremely well balanced and offers an impressive length and elegance, rare for South Italy, almost academic in style. But the wine is that balanced that this balance almost seems to take away something of that special character of Aglianico (which is why I like those wines so much)… Nevertheless this is a great wine. But I am really looking forward to taste older vintages of this wine in order to see how it will develop.
• Luigi Tecce Taurasi DOCG Poliphemo 2012
  Small cellar, but among the leading producers. This wine is produced from 85 year old Aglianico vines
  perfume: fine and intense black fruit
  Taste: dense, and structured, much tar, but also some black fruit, hints of sweet fruit (the wine is dry), and subtle, long finish, wonderful
• Mastroberardino Taurasi riserva DOCG Radici 2012
  This is a great wine from one of Italy’s most distinguished cellars.
  Perfume: complex, with some violet, black fruit
  Taste: full-bodied and elegant, with some notes of plum, cherry, jam, pepper and a refined long finish
• Tenuta Cavalier Pepe Taurasi DOCG Opera Mia 2012
  Important cellar, producing a range of Irpinia wines, presented with flair by the young Milena Pepe, who grew up in Belgium.
  Perfume: opulent richt fruit, blackberries, some balsamisc note
  Taste: intense full-bodied, lenght and much fruit, nice tannins, freshness, little hint of acidity but also nice complexity
• Tenuta Cavalier Pepe Taurasi riserva DOCG La Loggia del Cavaliere 2011
  Perfume: very intense and distinguished aromas, some spice and wood
  Taste: most intense beautiful fruit. Very complex, elegant with nice mature fruit, dense and impenetrable ruby red. Well-balanced tannins. Beautiful spicy note, some blackberry, balsamic note, length
• Tenuta del Meriggio Taurasi DOCG
  Interesting new cellar with much potential.
  Perfume: some black fruit, cherry, plums and a light peppery note
  Taste: elegant, distinguished and nice fruit, blackberry and length, a great Taurasi
• Terredora Taurasi DOCG Fatica Contadina 2012
  Perfume: Nice black fruit, elegant and fine, dry notes, complex
  Taste: full-bodied, notes of dark fruit, cocao, smoke and fresh red fruit. Good, strong tannins. A great wine which needs time to develop
• Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi DOCG Piano di Montevergine 2012
  Another leading producer, which grew rather recent to become one of South Italy’s leading cellars. An important voice in Irpinia.
  Perfume: some light hints of tobacco, blackberry and spice
  Taste: fine structure, fine tannins, some blackberry, cherry, very light spicy note and very refined finish
• Donnachiara Taurasi DOCG 2012
  More recent cellar offering a range of good quality wines.
  Perfumes: Refined aromas of cherry, plum, some dark fruit, freshness
  Taste: very complex wine, needs aging. The quite strong tannins need some time but there is great potential of fine fruit, spicyness and length. This will be a wonderful wine after some years of aging.
• Antico Castello Taurasi DOCG
  One of the more recent cellars in the area: much promise is here in the cellar.
  Perfume: black fruit, light spicy
  Taste: nice intense and fresh fruit, very subtle and velvety. Nice balance, medium length
• I Favati Taurasi riserva DOCG
  This is a great Taurasi. I lost my tasting notes but I still remember the high quality of it’s Taurasi riserva. Worth seeking out.
• Petilia, Taurasi DOCG 2009
  Perfume: wonderful fine and mature aromas, soft fruit, blackberries, some wood
  Taste: intense heel intese flavors of juniper, mature fruit, good acidity, fine and delicate tannins and much length
• Vigne Irpine, Taurasi DOCG 2015
  This young company, represented by the talented, young enologue, Francesca Coppola, presents a Taurasi of good standard and quite powerful.

Other cellars worth looking out for: Calafé, Guastaferro, Lonardo, Caggiano, Antica Hirpinia. Also Molettieri, Di Meo and Joaquin are some great cellars for Taurasi. (more news to publish later, follow this blog!)

More about my personal adventures in Taurasi you can watch here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=joW2p_4cltU

Many thanks to Piero Mastroberardino, Milena Pepe, Giuseppe, Felice Petrillo, Chiara and Francesco Romano, Irpinia consorzio and many wineries in Taurasi who offered me time and hospitality to tell their stories.

If ever a country left an unforgettable memory to me it was Georgia. My visit to Georgia was short but offered a plethora of special experiences. For a small country, it possesses a wealth of richness of culture, wine, history, beautiful nature, mountains, and great people. I visited Tbilisi, the important eastern wine region Kakhetia, Mtskheta, and some wineries west of Mtskheta. There was no time to see the Caucasus mountains or western Georgia. But I left with sensations of a wonderful and authentic country with spontaneous and hospitable people. I hope to return soon and discover more!
The antique history of Georgia is very special. Jewelry, drinking pots, and wine jars prove a rich history going back even 8000 years. Anyone interested in civilization and who wants to follow the traces of cultures with roots going back more than 4000 years should go to Georgia. Everything is different, starting with the language. At one museum I found old jewelry, dating from 2000 or more before Christ, long before the start of the Roman or Greek civilizations! In 1968 some wine jars were found in Northern Iran, dating back to 5000 BC – the oldest proof of wine culture at the time. But a recent find at Shulaveris Gora and Gadachrili, some 50 km south of Tbilisi, has shown signs of neolithic culture with some wine culture of at least 500 years older. American researcher Patrick McGovern of Michigan University who analyzes molecules found in antique jars and vessels, used to say that when we drink wine, we may imagine this is a culture going back some 8000 years.

Photo: Antique wine jar called ‘Dergi’, probably these round vessels called Dergi were the ancestors of the famous ‘Kvevri’

HISTORY

During it’s history Georgia was often dominated by surrounding powers. In antiquity the western part was called Colchis, and here are the first signs of the speakers of the Georgian language, the ‘Kartvelians’ in the 9^th century BC. At the coast, the Greeks built some trade towns and Colchis played a role in Greek mythology: it is said that the golden fleece was kept here. The eastern part was called Iberia and the capital became Mtskheta, which later for some time was Georgia’s capital. Georgia was invaded by Romans, Mongols, Persians, Iranians, Arabs, Byzantines, Mongols, Ottomans, and the Russians. All left traces that can be viewed in some parts of Georgian culture. At the end of the 19^th century, western Georgia and eastern Georgia became part of the Russian empire and since 1991 Georgia became independent. Georgia is also one of the oldest Christian countries, part of the Orthodox Christianity.

One aspect of Georgian culture is very special: at each dinner or meeting, there will be a glass of wine and a toast by at least one of the participants. The Georgians have developed great speech skills and show it on every occasion. Wine is not only a drink it also has a spiritual and social meaning and its heritage is related to the Georgian Orthodox church. Georgians are proud of their culture and this can be felt every day.

There is some contrast between the countryside where you can find old rural poverty, reminding of old soviet times, and the dazzling capital Tbilisi, which has become a modern and even chic city along the Mtkvari river with many entertainment venues. A mix of ultra-modern architecture and ancient monasteries and monuments. With driver Rezi and guide Giorgi we drove across the mountains to Kakhetia and along the road, you get an impression of the economic situation of a country where the average income per capita is some 100 EUR/month.

FOOD.

‘Every Georgian dish is a poem‘ said Pushkin. Visiting Georgia is a feast for every visitor because of the special Georgian habits. Each guest is considered a gift of God and they show this in many ways. They open the doors of their houses and receive you as a family member and offer you an abundance of food: I enjoyed this several times in one week! Their sense of hospitality is beyond everything I experienced in Europe. Their traditional food is original and authentic. Bread and cheese are the most important parts of the dinner but they are very creative in preparing them. Cheese can be boiled in milk, fried on a frying pan, and flavored with oils and spices. In various regions of Georgia you can find many versions of these dishes. Khachapuri, Georgian cheese bread, is one of the national dishes, it resembles a bit the pita of some Balkan countries but it is different. Chickirtmais is a traditional Georgian chicken soup. There are many traditional meat dishes like Shish kebab, Satsvi. Pkhali is a key part of Georgian cuisine: a mix of leaves of various vegetables like spinach, beetroot, cabbage, leek etc., with mashed nuts, salt, vinegar, pepper, spices, and herbs. Sauces are used everywhere in Georgia such as spices and nuts. And vegetables are abundant in all preparations, raw, cooked, boiled, etc.

TBILISI 

Tbilisi is a whirlwind city with fast driving cars, and typical big-city traffic but also an authentic city with cobblestone streets, bathhouses with dome-formed roofs (arab influence), ancient churches, and old factories in Soviet-style almost turned into ruins. Backpackers, hippies, and Mondaine, luxury-seeking tourists all can find something here. Restaurants, cafés, eating houses are everywhere in many styles. These contrasts are there which makes the town worth visiting.

MOUNTAINS

Distances in Georgia are quite big – it takes many hours to cross Georgia, also because of the mountains, not only the Caucasus, also the southern and western mountains. The mountain valleys are much traveled and are wonderful to visit. Svaneti is an ideal destination for those who love to enjoy the magic of the Caucasus. The mountains also habit bears, wolves, and other species, and in some places, one should not go alone in the mountains. One village on the northern edge of Kakheti was quite close to the mountains and people took their dogs into the houses at night because sometimes the bears entered the village and killed them.

MUSIC IN TBILISI

I had a fantastic experience when meeting with some of Georgia’s great rock musicians. We had a jam session together and they invited me to their great concert that weekend. Many thanks to Misha Chekurishvili and Zura Makhniashvili! You are very talented musicians! I have a great memory of you!!

Apart from rock-music Georgia knows an abundant richness of authentic folklore music which is often vocal and polyphone and very different in various regions of the country.

At one winery visit, I met with some Russian tourists and learned that they enjoy Georgia very much. For them it represents a very warm, and authentic country, they appreciate the great hospitality and they can speak their language because many Georgians speak Russian. But at the visit to Chateau Mukhrani, the cellarmaster told me in all colors how Russian tanks destroyed their vineyards during the war of 2008. A few kilometers from there, the Russian tanks are still standing, patrolling South Ossetia. But are the Russians not welcome? Of course, they are all welcome says one Georgian, just not their tanks. Fortunately for Georgia, the important Russian market is again open for Georgian wines.

All these contrasts make Georgia so exciting. It is a mix of modern city life, luxury tourism, backpackers, and a countryside where nothing has changed for centuries and old monasteries dating since the early Middle Ages.

In my next blog more about the wines from Georgia. Follow this blog!

NB  more photos and impressions are published at my Facebook page.

Many thanks to Inga Lekhiashvili of Georgian National Tourism Administration, to Nino Chavchanidze, George Chohovadze and to my guide Giorgi Dartsimelia !

Piemonte’s well-known products are wine and rice. But hazelnuts are an important produce too and are found everywhere in Piemonte. The local variety is called ‘tonda gentile’, known for its rich taste. Since long hazelnut has been considered as useful for making sweets and for Ferrero company a reason to have its has its main seat in Alba, close to the hills richly covered with hazelnut trees.

It was Piemonte’s star-chef Damiano Nigro to come up with the brilliant idea to show that the hazelnut has much more possibilities in gastronomy. Hazelnuts offer a lot of taste and can be used in a multitude of fine dishes. Result is this wonderful event ‘La festa della nocciola’ in the picturesque setting of Villa d’Amelia at 600 m height in the Langhe hills above sea level near Benevello. Hunderds of journalists and food-lovers could enjoy fine dishes prepared by a group of 20 prominent star-chefs from Italy and abroad.

The importance of the hazelnut for Piemonte’s gastronomy is also recognized: soon there will be a special ENOTECA DELLE NOCCIOLE at Benevello castle, as announced by Alba’s tourism director Mauro Carbone!

Italian chefs are famous for their creativity and this event was no exception, it was really an amazing experience to taste the various creations by chefs like Damiano Nigro and colleagues. The dishes were varied, there were starters, soups, first dishes, main dishes and of course some desserts and sweets. All to show the various possibilities of the hazelnut as ingredient for fine cuisine.

To complete the offer there were a number of Piemonte’s best wine producers to show that the dishes can be combined fantasticly with Piemonte’s wines.

The list of the chefs present at this wonderful event with the names of the dishes they proposed:

• #DamianoNigro – Relais Villa d’Amelia (Benevello CN):
  • ‘Wafer nocciola e vicciola’
• #StefanoMazzone – Ristorante Rendez-Vous presso Hotel Quisisana (Capri NA):
  • ‘Broccoli, acciughe e nocciole’
• #PacoZanobini – Locanda Mariella (Calestano PR):
  • ‘NoccioLatte e biscotti’
• #AlfioGhezzi – Locanda Margon (Ravina TN) Michelin **:
  • ‘Trota alla maniera del Principato Vescovile di Trento’
• #PiercarloZanotti – Ristorante San Francesco del Cappuccini Resort (Erbusco BS):
  • ‘Crema di zucca delicata , croccante di semi di zucca e nocciole salato e macaron al fegato grasso d’anatra’
• #GoranAmnegard, Blaxsta Vingård (from Sweden):
  • ‘Caramelized cream from moose milk with cloudberries, hazelnuts and natural cave aged cheese from north of the arctic circle’
• #IgorStepanovski – Macedonia:
  • ‘Crema di nocciole e fagioli bianchi su formaggio di pecora, filetto di trota affumicato con pasta disidratata e poi fatta rinvenire nell forno con gramola di pasta brise e nocciole tostate con polvere sumak’
• #DorianMassè – Restaurant Anne-Sophie Pic (Francia) Michelin ***:
  • ‘Marrone, birra e cazzetta’
• #MichelangeloCitino – Michelangelo Restaurant (Linate MI):
  • ‘Terrina di pollo e fegato , burro alla nocciola e bollicine al tartufo’
• #BoffaGabriele – Locanda Sant’Uffizio (Penango AT):
  • ‘Riso raschera e nocciole’
• #AndreaFerrucci – Ristorante Marcelin (Montà CN):
  • ‘Salmone vellutato nocciola’
• #AlessandroCaliolo – Ristorante Pizzeria Il Vulcano (San Vito dei Normanni BR):
  • ‘Acqua sale alla nocciola’
• #LuigiBonadonna – Chalet Fontana (Firenze):
  • ‘Cioccolato delle Langhe, sale affumicato in casa e olio alle nocciole’
• #MicheleBeber: ‘Canederlotto di spinaci e porcini con cuore morbido al casolet e salsa leggera alle nocciole’
• #FabrizioRebollini – Il Belvedere (Cantalupo Ligure AL):
  • ‘Focaccina alla nocciola con carrè di maiale nero affumicato al faggio e dressing di mele Carle, senape e nocciole’
• #ChristianMilone –Trattoria Zappatori (Pinerolo TO) * Michelin:
  • ‘Ceci e nocciola’
• #GaetanoBasiricò – Serisso 47 (Trapani):
  • ‘Capone (lampuga) farcito con Sgombro, Lardo e Carciofo Spinoso, Crema di Ceci all’Aglio Rosso e Nocciole fritte al Fior di Sale’
• #PaoloGhidini – Pizzeria Al Fienile (Palazzolo sull’Oglio BS)
• #UmbertodeMartino – Florian Maison (San Paolo d’Argon BG) * Michelin
• #PinoCuttaia – La Madia (Licata AG) ** Michelin
• #DomenicoCandela – Ristorante George’s presso Grand Hotel Parker’s (Napoli)
• #IvanCenteleghe – Pasticceria Centeleghe (Farra d’Alpago BL)
• #VetulioBondi – I gelati del Bondi (Firenze)

More photos of the event are published at the page WINEFOODMEETING at Facebook

Italy’s Adriatic coast is a long strip of sandy beaches, from Venice to Gargano giving space to thousands of tourists each summer. One exception breaks this pattern: Monte Conero, a huge mountain of 572 meters above sea level, south of Ancona, a rock of intense white chalk, covered with a natural park with woods and wildlife. Recently I had a tour to taste the Conero DOCG wines and I was really surprised by the wonderful quality and potential of these wines: Conero: one of Italy’s oldest DOCs, now DOCG.

The Marche is a region mostly known for its widely distributed Verdicchio wines but Conero DOCG is completely different: its wines are dense with high acidity and the DOCG is for Montepulciano grapes only, Verdicchio and Sangiovese have no role here (15% of Sangiovese is allowed though). It’s the most northern spot for Montepulciano – known from Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC and also present in south and central Italy. But in this ambiance Montepulciano can create miracles. The reason: a combination of soil and climate creating unique conditions. Climate is softened by the sea-breeze from nearby Adriatic – the sea can be seen from many vineyards but mount Conero protects them against cold winds from the North, as they are positioned mostly southeast of the mountain. The subsoil is a clay of Pleistocene period with a high chalk content: this white soil gives the wine its power and a higher acidity than any other vineyard from the Appenines in Marche and Abruzzo. As a result Montepulciano from these vineyards can age many years: generally a period of 10 years is recommendable, but it is no surprise to find a 25-year old Conero DOCG still fresh and drinkable. There are two versions of Conero: the normal Rosso Conero DOC and the Conero DOCG, which in fact is a riserva which needs a minimum of 24 months aging – partly in wood. It is allowed to add up to 15% of other grapes for the DOCG wine, but most producers choose to make a 100% Montepulciano, especially for the riserva version. The Rosso Conero DOC is a nice and easy drinking red with some floral aromas and easy fruit, not tannic and never aged in wood but here I am focussing on Conero DOCG. The region covers 350 hectares and produces some 13.000 hl, of which some 1,3 million bottles are produced – both versions together.

Montepulciano is an interesting grape, it possesses much color and phenolic content and matures relatively late: that is why it needs a warm climate. But when producers follow modern viticultural practice the wine can be of great prestige and potential, rich in organoleptic qualities. Conero riserva DOCG is totally different than all other Montepulciano wines – due to the special territory of Mount Conero: especially when aged the wine reaches an intensity of mature fruit in combination with much freshness: this is remarkable and it makes Conero DOCG one of Italy’s elite wines.

Conero DOCG is always matured in wood, most producers use oak barrels, but sometimes big casks are used. Some wines have even difficulty of showing fruit at a young age and need more time but it is very clear that each Conero DOCG needs a couple of years to fully develop. Montepulciano is rich in phenols and due to grape selection and longer maturation this wine contains a lot of them, so really needs time to develop into a harmonious drinking wine. When young it shows a nice ruby-red color, dense and with time it becomes an elegant shining-red.

The perfume of the wine is sometimes intense floral with roses, cherry and fresh fruit when young, developing with age into plums, tobacco, violet, together with some blackberry, blueberry and dried roses sometimes with hints of licorice, eucalyptus and some balsamic note. Tasting a well-matured Conero shows a rich and full-bodied wine, first with wonderful sensations of intense fruit, freshness and a nice roundness. But when longer open it becomes more complex with balsamic notes, plums and black cherry, together with some alcohol and strong tannins, but not problematic: most older versions I tasted were well-balanced.

This wonderful palet makes it one of my prefered Italian wines. It’s only problem is that the name does not start with a ‘B’ like Barolo, Barbaresco and Brunello, otherwise people might remember the wine more easily. I am not saying that Conero DOCG is to compare with Barolo, but it is really a great wine with its own special characteristics and great aging potential. It should be taken serious by all serious winelovers and merits a place in all prestigious cellars – Conero DOCG is one of Italy’s great classic red wines.

TASTING  I just quoted some wines, there are more:

• La Calcinara, Conero DOCG Folle 2012
  • ruby red color
  • P nice, intense fruit, some blackberry and some light spicy note
  • T complex taste, elegant fruit, mature, some spices, length, well-balanced, good tannins, some spices, silky and long finish
• Moroder Conero riserva DOCG 2012 Dorico
  • organic estate producing good qualityvery dark color
  • P some notes of dried cherries, some light spicy note
  • T very elegant and long taste, intense fruit and some dry note, strong tannins and very long finish.
  • Not a wine for easy palates, but a wine that has much aging potential and a strong character
• Serenelli Alberto Conero DOCG Varano 2012
  • P wonderful intense fruit, some spicyness, elegant
  • T intens fruit, much length, body, some strong tannins too but balanced, elegant fresh fruit, some blackberry, needs some aging and will become very interesting
• Moncaro Conero DOCG riserva ´Nerone´ 2012
  • P rich fruit, freshness, some cherry and spicyness
  • T intense and length some sweet notes and fresh fruit, some blackberry and little sweetness in finish
• Conte Leopardi Conero DOCG Casirano 2010
  • P quite full body, some spicyness, nice fruit
  • T intense full-bodied wine, strong tannins and powerful fruit, cherry, berries, some mandles, but very drinkable great length
• Angeli di Varano Conero DOCG riserva Stile Libero 2010
  • P much expressive fruit, cherry, mint, mediterranean spicyness
  • T some ‘ fatty’ fruit, intense and strong wine, tannins but very opulent fruit, structure, complex with some oak and great finish
• Umani Ronchi Conero DOCG riserva Campo San Giorgio 2011
  • P some blackberries, fresh fruit, eucalyptus
  • T still young wine, concentrated fruit which dominates the still strong tannins, great length and at the vertical tasting we tasted: Umani Ronchi Conero DOCG riserva Cumaro 2003
  • P wonderful, elegant aroma, much intense fruit, hints of blackberry., mint, spicynees
  • T the wine needs some time for opening but then shows wonderful intense fruit, length, and still quite strong tannins, but fruit dominates with hints of cherry, berries, and great finishPhoto: the hills around Osimo, part of Conero DOCG wine territory

Estates to mention: Calcinara, Fattoria Le Terrazze, Umani Ronchi, Moroder, Moncaro, Garofoli, Angeli di Varano, Pesaresi, Serenelli, and others.

‘Perché fare un vino – c’è già troppo vino nel mondo?’ Questa domanda mi viene spesso posta dopo che la gente ha sentito parlare di un vino prodotto da me. Ecco perché:

Il vino nella maggior parte dei casi si ottiene da una miscela di diverse uve (blending). Anche molti grandi nomi, e c’è una ragione per questo. Bordeaux ad esempio: i produttori del Médoc o delle Graves hanno deciso di combinare il loro Cabernet Sauvignon con un po ‘di Merlot per levigare i tannini acerbi del Cabernet spesso troppo aspro (specialmente nel passato) e aggiungere del Petit Verdot (spesso non più del 4%) per il colore, e a volte anche Cabernet Franc per avere più complessità. Altri vini “blended” sono: Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Douro, Porto, Chianti, la maggior parte dei vini rossi della Languedoc e del Rodano ed anche molti Champagne (non tutti). Tutti sono grandi nomi e queste tradizioni di miscelazione sono antichissime perché i produttori volevano essere sicuri che il vino fosse sempre ok.

Un altro argomento per la miscelazione in passato era che a volte un’uva è maturata bene, e un altra non completamente con alcuni tannini acerbi come risultato: il vino miscelato è più equilibrato e facile da bere. In Austria, ad esempio, il famoso “Gemischter Satz” è un esempio di una tradizione antica che sopravvive ancora: tutte le diverse uve del vigneto – spesso più di dieci – vengono raccolte e fermentate insieme. In passato questa era una pratica comune nella maggior parte dei vigneti in Europa, perché le uve venivano raccolte tutte insieme e il fatto che alcune uve fossero immature era dato per scontato, e i vigneti stessi erano composti da molte varietà diverse.

Se i vini sono miscelati con cura possono generare un eccellente matrimonio del gusto: alcuni dei migliori vini del pianeta sono “blend” prodotti con grande cura e studiati bene: un’uva può fornire struttura, tannini, densità di sapori (per es.Cabernet Sauvignon), un’altra uva può dare acidità, colore gradevole e alcuni aromi raffinati (come Barbera) e se i diversi caratteri sono complementari il vino può acquisire una fantastica complessità di gusto, sapore ed espressione diventando unico.

Spesso tali vini miscelati hanno bisogno di un periodo di maturazione più lungo e questo potrebbe essere il motivo per cui in alcuni paesi i vini miscelati sono più rari, come in Italia o in Germania. Probabilmente perché i mercati locali sono abituati a bere vino più giovane ed un monovarietale è spesso più rapidamente pronto da bere e mostra anche facilmente il carattere di quell’uva. Per me va bene, ma
il potenziale di miscelare i vini non dovrebbe essere dimenticato.

Un altro aspetto della storia è che alcuni vini sono miscele, ma non indicati come tali: questa è una parte importante di tutti i vini con una sola varietà in etichetta quando esiste la possibilita di giungere fino a 15 % di altre uve (per esempio Barbera d’Asti DOCG). Molte leggi sul vino offrono questa possibilità. Un altro esempio: i vini Cabernet del Cile, della California, del Sud Africa, ecc, contengono un percentuale di Merlot o altre uve, addirittura possono arrivare fino al 30% e questo è accettato dalla legge. E viceversa Merlot contiene spesso un po ‘di Cabernet. Non sono d’accordo con questa pratica perché ritengo che dare le informazioni giuste ai consumatori sia della massima importanza. Perché i consumatori dovrebbero essere informati dall’idea che a loro piace un vino che in realtà è una miscela pensando che sia un vino monovarietale? I consumatori dovrebbero essere trattati correttamente e non dovrebbe esserci vergogna di mettere il 15, 20 o 30 percento di una certa uva sull’etichetta. Se prendiamo in considerazione tutti i vini monovarietali, che di fatto sono miscele, la maggior parte dei vini su questo pianeta sono miscele e solo una piccola percentuale non è tale. (Il fatto che in alcuni casi i vini siano stati arricchiti con altre uve, non consentite dalla legge, è un’altra questione ..).

In paesi come l’Italia (o la Germania) un vino blend può essere un grande vino se studiato bene: in Piemonte alcuni dei più grandi vini sono miscele (qualche vini di Gaja) ma l’attenzione va comunque al più grande vino di tutti: Barolo. I vini Barolo DOCG (insieme al Barbaresco) ed anche Taurausi DOCG me sono è i più grandi vini del pianeta, una rara combinazione di una grande uva, (Nebbiolo nel caso di Barolo, Aglianico nel caso di Taurasi) e un habitat che offre condizioni così speciali.

Ma in Italia la maggior parte dei produttori optano tradizionalmente per i vini monovarietali – dal momento del reimpianto dei vigneti dopo la fillossera (prima c’era molto “gemischter Satz“, anche in Piemonte). Ma in Piemonte ed anche in altre parte d’Italia c’è un grande potenziale per creare delle miscele: le vigneti del Piemonte e Campania offrono una vasta gamma di uve autoctone e l’assemblaggio può creare grandi vini, anche in zone vinicole meno conosciute. Il Piemonte è uno dei territori vinicoli più interessanti con un clima moderato dalle Alpi, un’influenza leggera dal mare ed inverni mediamente freddi. Anche Campania offre delle territori affascinanti con clima molto adatto, sopratutto Irpinia ma anche Benevento. Questo, in combinazione con terreni spesso calcarei con un strati argilloso-sabbioso crea le condizioni per vini pregiati con sapori così raffinati. E c’è un patrimonio così fantastico di uve autoctone!

Questa è la dichiarazione che voglio esprimere: voglio dimostrare che questi territori vinicoli (che già sono tra le più interessanti al mondo) possono anche dare grandi i vini con questo concetto di vini blend, provenienti dalle proprie uve autoctone. Idem Collio e Brda (Collio sloveno).

Il mio vino rosso del Piemonte viene prodotto con una miscela di Nebbiolo 40%, Freisa, 30%, Barbera 25% e Croatina 5% (da vigneti in Langhe e Monferrato. Il mio vino bianco viene prodotto con una miscela di 50% Sauvignonasse, 30% Rebula (Ribolla gialla), 15% Pinot blanc e 5% Pinot Gris. Il vino porta il mio nome perché il concetto è mio. I produttori sono Sibav in Brda per il bianco e Socré per il rosso in Piemonte. Tutte e due rappresentano famiglie con grande tradizione vinicola. Lavorano con grande cura i vigneti e con grande capacità enologiche, motivo per cui sono sicuro che questo progetto è in buone mani.

Il vino rosso, annata 2017, viene imbottigliato fine novembre 2019. Ma è già chiaro che si tratta di un grande vino: nelle botte si ha sviluppato molto bene ed anche il produttore stesso è affascinato del suo stesso vino (che prima non aveva mai prodotto!). La eleganza, i tannini e profumi del Nebbiolo, con il suo corpo, si misciano benissimo con il corpo piu robusto della Freisa, che pero offre anche una bella struttura di profumi e gusti, il vino diventa ancora piu raffinato con la presenza della Barbera, ed il Croatina offre un aspetto tannico forte, con bella frutta che arrichisce il vino. Il vino ha un grande potenziale di invecchiare ma sarà già presto bevibile anche se contiene tannini presenti, ma il frutto domina il gusto in modo particolare.

Il vino bianco viene da vigneti in Brda (il Collio che si trova in Slovenia) e che ha sempre prodotto le stesse uve che si trovano anche in Collio. Poi il terreno è ‘Flysch’ che adesso crea questo tipico gusto ‘minerale’ nel vino. Il vino è di annata 2015 e solo adesso è arrivato a buona bevibilità. Il vino è veramente molto intenso, ricco, offre profumi di fiori bianchi e nel gusto è pieno di vari sensazioni, con un finale molto lungo, dominato di questa mineralità che spesso si trova in vini del Collio. Da sensazioni di un vino abbastanza forte, pero per sorprese tiene solo 12,5% alcool. Un vino fuori dal solito e molto interessante ed ha già trovato tanti nuovi passionati.

Ora ancora un altro vino, un bianco di un’altra regione è in preparazione: seguimi!

Paul Balke

IL VINO E DISPONIBILE: PER PIU INFORMAZIONI POTETE CONTATTARMI: paulbalke@hotmail.com