Cherasco
Cherasco

Near the Langhe this interesting town is situated on a high rock at the point where the rivers Stura and Tanaro flow together. Cherasco hides much culture and history behinds its walls, it is one of those rather well preserved, authentic places in Piemonte. The centre with its narrow and rectangular streets was built according to the same principles as Turin because it was thought that Cherasco would become as important as Turin. Indeed the strategic position of Cherasco on a rock is what it gave it its historical importance.

Cherasco is most famous for some important peace treaties. Well-known is the treaty between Napoleon and the king of Savoie, signed in 1796 after Napoleon´s first campaign into Piemonte. Maybe more important even was the treaty of 1631.

Detail of the room of the peace treaty in Palazzo Salmatoris
Detail of the room of the peace treaty in Palazzo Salmatoris where Napoleon dictated the conditions of Savoie´s surrender to France. The same room saw in 1631 the end of the war on Mantova and Monferrato in the presence of king Vittorio Amadeo I and authorities from Austria, France, Spain and Italian states.
Fracassi Ratti Mentone
Fracassi Ratti Mentone, producer of Cherasco´s own Barolo

Barolo!  Cherasco is one of the 11 comunes which may produce Italy´s finest wine: Barolo DOCG. Count Fracassi Ratti Mentone (PHOTO), producer of Cherasco´s own Barolo, is a most pleasant and amiable man and has a lot of passion for his wine – fortunately for Cherasco. His cellar is not always open for public, but as the count is by now 80 years, this is logical – so I was fortunate!

The surface of his vineyard is tiny, only 2,5 ha, in fact it is part of the hill of Verduno which remained under Cherasco. Count Fracassi is descendant of a noble family who were among the founders of Cherasco. He proudly shows his historical cellar which is well preserved. I tasted the wine, Barolo DOCG Mantoetto 2011: fine fresh and elegant perfumes, some violets and fruit of blackberries and a taste with some light tannins, fresh fruit, and elegant, long finish. Indeed the wine makes think of a Barolo from Verduno: very elegant and intense but with lighter body and tannins. Still the wine can age well and will open up better after a few years.

Cherasco had probably Ligurian (Celtic) origins before it became a Roman foothold. The podesta of Alba wanted Cherasco as ´villa nuova´, for defensive reasons and built the city walls in 13th century, partly still visible. Soon after the town fell under the league of Anjou but in 1348 was taken over by Luchino Visconti, duke of Milano and in 1559 Cherasco became Savoie territory. Many buildings, palaces and churches date from this period. When the pest arrived in Piemonte in 1630 Cherasco remained safe and the royal court took residence in the town. The royal court also fled to Cherasco in 1706 when the French sieged Turin, and thus Cherasco.

The impressive belltower dominates the centre. Alas, many of the palaces are still private but some can be visited and show abundant frescoes and decorations. When Cherasco was ruled by Mantova the taxes were lower than in Savoie territory, a reason why many noble families went to live in Cherasco and they lived in some of those many noble palaces. Many churches show the importance of religious life in Cherasco. Interesting are the Chiesa di S.Gregorio, Chiesa di S.Iffredo and the Chiesa di Sant´Agostino – all show typical Piemontese baroque. Also worth visiting are the Chiesa della Madonna delle Grazie and the Santuario della Madonna del Popolo, an impressive domed church. The most historical church is the Chiesa di San Pietro (13th century).

The synagogue dates from 1740 but Jewish presence in Cherasco dates from 16th century when they were active as bankers, doctors, silk production and textile trade. The ghetto was created by Savoie in 1740 and traces are still visible. One interesting aspect for which I found sources in the past remains not quite clear: the trade with olive oil and anchovy along the salt roads. Is it true that the Jews from Cherasco were the initiators of the famous Piemontese receipt ´bagna caoda´. Did they? This has to be researched. At least they left Cherasco with one dish because they could not eat pork: the salsiccia di Cherasco – with calf´s meat.

There is a rich cultural life and Cherasco knows too much events to quote. Worth visiting is the antique market, Mercato dell´antiquariato, held 3 times a year and much visited.

The wine from Cherasco can be purchased at Enoteca Mentone, directed by Fabrizio Stecca.
www.enotecapalazzomentone.it.

Many thanks to Marella Fumero, assessore of Cherasco and to Barbara Davico.